[Closed] What Wheel building kit to buy?

old for upside down for a start. See if your any good at it first

If you've bought the Roger Musson book then build the tools it has plans for. They work just fine and are cheap (especially if you have the wood laying around).

i use a xtools stand, a park tension meter, and a wooden floor plus my sons lego bricks as a dishing tool.

it is great fun

Just buy a good spoke key for now and see how you get on. I've only ever used a bike, turned upside down and never felt the need for a proper jig. A couple of pens or lolly sticks held on with elastic bands as guides. Built dozens of wheels now.

Have built a few wheels now and, with due respect to comments above, I've settled on my own kit for doing it:

1. Roger Musson's book (you've got this - well done 🙂 )
2. A jig. You can do it without, but it's way, way easier with one. I borrowed [url= http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWPWTS/jobsworth-pro-wheel-truing-workshop-stand ]this one[/url] from a friend and found it excellent and easy to use, so I've now bought my own. Note: I had to buy some [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-thru-axle-adaptors-ts2ta/rp-prod58539 ]extra supports[/url] to make bolt through wheels easier to accommodate.
3. A dishing tool. I made my own for the first wheels, but have now bought [url= http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOMINFCGFDT/minoura-fcg-310-folding-dishing-tool ]this tool[/url], which is quite excellent quality and value.
4. A good spoke key (or range, as there are some different sizes). I use [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-spoke-wrench-sw/rp-prod17510 ]the Park one[/url], but there are plenty of other options
5. Tensioning gauge. This one is controversial and, tbh, I did my first builds without, but I like being able to compare relative tension quickly and reliably, even if they are woefully inaccurate for measuring absolute tension. I use [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-spoke-tension-meter/rp-prod155417 ]this one[/url], which seems good enough for my needs and I can typically get all tensions within around 10% (obviously on one side only!)

I know that "the book" has guides for making a jig, but tbh, I'm lazy, so didn't bother 🙂 A dishing tool is much easier (mine was from a lump of MDF, some blu-tak and a bit of chopped out plastic) but in the end, I've bought a proper tool.

I'm sure everyone will have their own kit, but this is mine and it's working well for me and I'm cheerfully producing high quality wheels in my garage. Very therapeutic too 🙂

edit: a little video of the Planet X needle gauges in action [url= https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swQ4yW7_gbE ]here[/url].
Each small notch on the scale is 0.01mm so they are _seriously_ sensitive. You'll notice that the largest displacement is actually the invisible weld seam on the rim 🙂

Thanks guys. I reckon I'll be alright at it and since the LBS wants a fortune to do it, then it's time I learnt.

Went with the PlanetX stand stand and various bits, so I will see how it goes. I'm looking forward to learning another skill and I have a large umber of wheels and wheel parts kicking about so it should get plenty of use!

Having built about 10 of my own now, my advice would be to use DT swiss rims with their Squorx nipples and the Squorx driver tool, they are an absolute pleasure to build compared to using a spoke key!

as for tension, i've found that you need to keep on going till the nipples creak as you tighten them.

(a sort of 'k-k-k-k-k-k-k' noise)

this means they're binding a bit, which means they won't come un-done too easily.

also, pluck the spokes during the build. They should 'ting' rather than 'tang', to let you know you're getting close.

when i tried a park tension-ometer, it said they were more or less in the mid-range of recommended.

also, pluck the spokes during the build.

That way, you can get even tension between spokes on the same side of the wheel.

That way, you can get even tension between spokes on the same side of the wheel.

The "Musson Way" here is to use a spoke driver. I "modified" a flat bladed screwdriver bit on the grindstone to create a flat driver with a pointy bit in the middle. Then you use the electric drill to whip all of the nipples up exactly the same amount (i.e. when the spoke pushed the driver off the nipple). Then you just keep going round the wheel turning them the same amount each time until the wheel is more or less true. (you'll need to apply more turns to the spokes on one side to set the dish though - read the book!)

Doing this I found that I didn't need to do much tension equalising as they were more or less right straight away. Oh, and don't forget to turn back each nipple a bit after each tighten to "unwind" the spoke. This makes a huge difference to the long term stability of a wheel (says the book. Read the book.)

Thanks guys. I reckon I'll be alright at it and since the LBS wants a fortune to do it, then it's time I learnt.

Went with the PlanetX stand stand and various bits, so I will see how it goes. I'm looking forward to learning another skill and I have a large umber of wheels and wheel parts kicking about so it should get plenty of use!

It's much easier to do your first build with new bits (new rim and spokes at least) then at least everything should be more or less straight to start with which helps prevent frustration.

Otherwise, enjoy it - it's both therapeutic and very satisfying when done 🙂

Get a guitar plectrum to stop hurty fingers from the spoke pinging.

Some possibly left-field suggestions...

- Cotton buds: cut a few in half on a very small angle with a sharp knife to get two sharp points. Then use this point to jab into the nipple head then nipple into the spoke hole to engage with the spoke easily. Once done so, pull out cotton bud.
- Thick garden gloves for stress relieving. Your hands will thank you.
- Watercolour/art paint brush for brushing a bit of lubricant of your choice (I use Green Oil) onto the spoke hole where the nipple is going to sit.

FWIW I use the Spokey spoke key, both red and black and would advise the "Pro" version that has twice the surface area to help with biting into nipple. Matron.

Got the sturdy Planet X truing stand and the LifeLine dishing tool from Wiggle. I did have the Musson one made out of corrugated cardboard but this just works better. Park tension meter.

Yeah, guess you could say I was addicted.

HTH.

Squorx nipples and the Squorx driver tool, they are an absolute pleasure to build compared to using a spoke key!

And that, kids, is why you shouldn't smoke crack. Sqorx are the work of the devil and have ****ty little washers that fall into your rim voids. They require a special tool rather than the completely standard screwdriver every other nipple needs!

i've found that you need to keep on going till the nipples creak as you tighten them.

You should never get that creaking. Lube the threads so that you can tension properly and they will never come undone. That creaking often means it'll ping back later and lose tension (which is bad!). Same goes for sail rigging, always lube your threads if you need tension and control.

I was going to get or build a stand but I just do it in the forks, with cable ties, works a charm.

Wooden cocktail sticks are good for putting nipples into deep rims- avoids the risk of dropping the little bastards in.

Nice one on the cocktail sticks. I usually use and old spoke

I find a ruler taped to the fork legs or stays with a couple of bull dog clips to be much better than cable ties.

You use the ruler to adjust for the vertical true and the bulldog clips to adjust for lateral true. I find it much easier to do the finer adjustments when compared to flexy cable ties

Plus you can easily mark the mid point on the ruler to ensure you don't go way out with the dishing whilst doing the truing.

I've used cotton buds too and it works well. However, I find an old spoke with a nipple screwed on to leave approx 5mm exposed thread to be much quicker and also avoids risk of losing nipple in rim well.

I love wheel building!