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Mate's lad wanted his Saracen bike converted to single ring up front (he's never been out of middle ring of triple and we live in Norfolk), but i am struggling to get the crank arm off the BB spindle.
Removed the end cap and using proper Park Tools crank puller (one with the handle), i've sprayed with GT85 for last 3 days, but still will not come off, i have tightened the initial part into the cranks threads, then in turn tightened the inner part that pushes the arm off the BB, but have done til it will not turn anymore, i don't want to over tighten it and risk knackering the thread?
is it square taper or octalink? if octalink the sq taper tool needs to be adapted with a washer..(or a 5p?)
Worse case is square taper BB's are cheap
and in all likely-hood you'll need a slightly smaller one anyway
Are these Suntour kids cranks ? Reason I ask is they kids ones seem "designed" so that they don't actually fit the square taper but sorta get crushed around the square taper.
Yep, they are Suntour ones? so take a hammer to it and get a cheap new BB?
Nowhere on the bike has any grease been used, every chainring bolt was a mission.
[url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/removing-cranks-from-a-square-taper-bb ]Krytonise it.[/url]
Tried extending the crank or the puller tool with a seatpost or similar to give more leverage? I had to resort to that with my first experiment with a BB after plenty of soaking, some heat / cold cycles, and other more physical interventions.
(Carefully) ride about on it without the bolt in place?
bearnecessities - Member
Krytonise it.
Holy Moly... i'm not doing that to it!
Carefully) ride about on it without the bolt in place?
This has always been the most effective option for me in the past, Just be careful and leave the crank bolt in loose so the arm does not just fall off when it frees up.
Thanks all, will try riding it tonight, which may be entertaining as it's size for a 10 year old!
Just make sure you're not using an ISIS tool rather than a SQ taper one and stripping the threads out of the cranks like I did by thinking "this is damn tight" and getting the big bar out rather than actually thinking about what was happening - no idea how I'm going to get that crank off now (other than the method mentioned above). 😳
Krytonise it.
I like that the pic is still available.
shouldn't you be using this?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-cotterless-crank-puller-ccp22/rp-prod34314
Scud,
This is really only complex because it's a mates kids bike
If it was my own kids bike I'd cut the damned things off (after trying what has already been suggested)... the again you might find the BB is seized in as well.... but obviously its a bit of unexpected expense...
What size (length) are the cranks ??? Would your mate stump up top replace them? I just gave away a set of 140mm but perhaps someone on here will have taken some off their kids bike?
as above CCP44 is for Octalink and ISIS, CCP22 is for Square taper.
I you're using the CCP44 (or any other ISIS/Octalink puller) it won't be pushing on the spindle, it'll jsut be pushing on the lip inside the arm and tensioning the threads, if you keep going you'll strip them.
Are you [b]sure [/b]you're using the right tool?
I use one of these https://www.parkersofbolton.co.uk/products/cyclo-cotterless-crank-extractor-tool?CAWELAID=620001070002484107&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=18186045204&CATCI=pla-68221835721&CATARGETID=620001070002484196&cadevice=c&gclid=CMPP5c-0uNQCFU217Qod53oEZw
on my kids bike with these cranks https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Sports-Outdoors/Kettenradgarnitur-SR-Suntour-T20242-Z%C3%A4hne-schwarz/B0029MP3AO/ref=sr_1_2?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1497274237&sr=1-2
Using the extra jobbie on the end. Are they the same as your cranks??
amedias - Member
as above CCP44 is for Octalink and ISIS, CCP22 is for Square taper.I you're using the CCP44 (or any other ISIS/Octalink puller) it won't be pushing on the spindle, it'll jsut be pushing on the lip inside the arm and tensioning the threads, if you keep going you'll strip them.
Are you sure you're using the right tool?
POSTED 26 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST
Bugger... will go and purchase the CCP22 first and see if that does it, cheaper than new cranks!
It's easy to check, just check the size of the head of the pushing 'pin' on the tool, and look into the crank and see if the pin will push the end of the square spindle (sq taper head) or if it's too wide (ISIS head) and will bottom out on the crank.
Some other crank extractors have replaceable heads so they can work with both type of crank.
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Get stuck in.
If a square taper, is there a washer under the crank bolt? If it is left place, the crank puller presses against it and not the bottom bracket spindle.
I never liked the CCP22 or ISIS equivalent, sometimes / often the handle didn't give enough leverage, used the adaptable one instead -- CWP-7 - with the alternative 'end' for ISIS / ST cranks..
Carefully) ride about on it without the bolt in place?
+2
Few rides around the block should do it, it'll fall off when u least expect it
scud - Member
bearnecessities - Member
Krytonise it.
Holy Moly... i'm not doing that to it!
Its been fine for a year, and in more danger from a turbo sweat salt attack than snapping TBH. On the flip side my carbon Bianchi decided to snap for no reason any all.
On the flip side my carbon Bianchi decided to snap for no reason any all.
It probably saw what happened to its stable mate and decided it was a better way to go...
mini ball joint splitter will remove them with a good chance of little damage[img] 
[/img]
If a square taper, is there a washer under the crank bolt? If it is left place, the crank puller presses against it and not the bottom bracket spindle.
also a heat gun to heat up crank, put something between crank and frame thats non flamable, eg metal sheet and heat crank up, tapping with a small hamer to sides