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[Closed] Trouble removing RF Evolve XC cranks 2004

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[#919188]

Having trouble removing RF Evolve XC cranks 2004 from my frame.

Ive managed to get the non-drive off using a crank puller.

The drive side 8mm cap is tight as hell though (i think i need to undo it?).

I dont think its right to drift the axel out at this stage.

Does anyone know the correct procedure?

cheers

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Posted : 03/10/2009 2:52 pm
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yep i had the same problem

looks like you've got a normal crank bolt in where (i think) it should be a self extracting bolt.

take out the incorrect bolt (good luck, try using a long metal pole on the end of the allen bolt for more leverage?)

if its got a smaller bolt still inside, buy the self extracting bolt, then undo the inner bolt, tighten up the outer self extracting bolt and it should pop off

EDIT just noticed the first pic, ignore me completely, you have a different bb to me.....


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 3:07 pm
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that looks like an ISIS BB to me. You need to get the drive side off as well and then the BB will be a cartridge type. Allen key and an extension (I use a 3 ft steel curtain pole but you might be able to use your seatpost) Then you'll need the crank puller again, and finally get to the BB. Which might be when the fun starts if it's been in there since 2004 (which I doubt, as that would outlast the previous ISIS recordby about 4.5 years, allegedly)


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 4:11 pm
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Hold on , RF Evolve xc is self extracting, well mine is.
You unscrew the 8mm inner against the 10mm outer end cap. The bolt hits the end cap and drives the arm off with it. Them you use the STW version of a tool kit ( a rock ) to tap the axel out the BB . If its the same, the non drive side will have 8mm tightem and an arrow poining one way , then 10mmm tighten , and an arrow pointing the other way.


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 6:19 pm
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Your's might be self extracting, but not all of them are, I took a normal type one off earlier today and know that they can be very tight. As suggested above, make sure the allen key is properly located and use a long lever on the end.


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 6:25 pm
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Yours might be self extracting, but not all of them are, I took a normal type one off earlier today and know that they can be very tight. As suggested above, make sure the allen key is properly located and use a long lever on the end.


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 6:25 pm
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Hold on; only if it's an external BB, which looking at the pix and from the date, it isn't. I'd bet good money that's an old ISIS sort. You can tap on the axle with something the size of stonehenge if you like, it won't shift, it's a cartridge BB.


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 6:26 pm
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Hold on , RF Evolve xc is self extracting, well mine is.
You unscrew the 8mm inner against the 10mm outer end cap. The bolt hits the end cap and drives the arm off with it. Them you use the STW version of a tool kit ( a rock ) to tap the axel out the BB . If its the same, the non drive side will have 8mm tightem and an arrow poining one way , then 10mmm tighten , and an arrow pointing the other way.


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 6:47 pm
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ah but the isis side of the bb means its not a one piece crank an bb business, ie its not the self extracting type.

so he needs to take out the bolt and use the bb tool as suggested above


 
Posted : 03/10/2009 8:31 pm
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Still struggling.. left some wd40 soaking on it

Its correct to go anti-clockwise to release it? Still insanely tight.

How did you hold the crank arm?

BB is the original.. it never got changed (bike was not used 24/7)


 
Posted : 04/10/2009 8:23 pm
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Take the pedal off and put a length of tubing over the crank to act as a lever, as well as on the allen key, and line them up so they're at about 20 degrees apart and pull them together. You can apply your muscle power this way, rather than just upper body weight if you had them 180 degrees apart.I did say they're very tight, didn't I?


 
Posted : 04/10/2009 10:07 pm