Help, I think I've traced creaking noise to my Trek Remedy 8's main pivot (just above BB). So far I've removed an oval nut from the non-drive side but can't get the main bolt out. The bolt takes a 6mm hex in each end but just spins and spins without shifting. I don't think the bolt head on the drive-side unscrews from the shaft, if it does it's on ****ing tight. I'm scared of causing too much damage by whacking it too hard in the hope it will just slide out.
Anyone know how these fit together so I can be sure I'm doing the right thing?
Simon
Not sure if this will help, but for my fuel, I needed to use a 6mm hex key and an adjustable wrench on the outside of the main pivot bolt. Both on the non drive side. I could also use a 6mm hex on the drive side, but it was the same as the 6mm on the non drive side.
From memory, the bolt loostened the opposite of what I thought it would. It came free when I started putting a bit of pressure clockwise and then anti clockwise. To work out which way it turned.
You can also google an exploded diagram for your model. It will show how it fits together.
and my main pivot was definitely a source of creaks if not tightened to correct torque.
On Mrs M’s Fuel the threadlock turned out to be stronger than the alloy pivot and bolt which crumbled like cheddar as I tried to undo it. I then had to drill it out(carefully!)
It is common for the bearings to be seized on the bolt, hence it just spins with the nut removed.
Slide a bolt that fits snugly into the end where the nut was, and give it a clout with a hammer(using a drift if you're not very accurate), hopefully it'll break the stiction that's holding it.
Cheers everyone for the replies. The Trek website Chat function was pretty good and they supplied drawing within minutes. But I think Bigyan is right, bearings must be rusted on to the bolt.
The good news is, I've just put everything back together so I can ride tomorrow and the creak has gone! I guess all the wd40 I used to try and release the bolt has created a very short term fix.
I'll get back on to Trek for a solution...
A whack with a big hide hammer is the solution.
I had the same problem on my Fuel ex, think it took 2 or 3 big whacks to shift it.
It probably isn't the cause, but it's worth having a good look at the pivot bolt for signs of cracking once it's out. I've seen a few that looked ok at a glance, but snapped once tightening up began.
The Trek warranty gives 2 years for 'All rear suspension linkage components, including bearings, rocker link and hardware', So I'll try that before smashing the bolt and bearings with an even bigger hammer that the one I've been trying to use.
Just got to get through the Brighton Big Dog next week and then back to the dealer...