Got an carbon fibre seatpost that is looking a bit tired from moving up and down in the frame. No deep scratches just the equivelent of losing the anodizing of a black thomson post but the carbon has lost some but not all of its lacquer.
If I wanted to take the whole post down to its bear carbon and re-lacquer. Was thinking sanding it down using 1000, then 1500 then 2000 grade paper.
Never used this kind of fine grade wet and dry - I'm I on the right lines?
Un not sure that really a great idea, but no mater what to take care as carbon fibre dust, as it is normally compared to nastiness like asbestos (couldn't find a good link though TBH)
Yeah, go for it, you'll be fine.
The lacquer/resin will be quite thick anyway, so you probably wont hit actual carbon, just don't take too much off.
You can get carbon polish, its a lot easier to polish than lacquer it.
It's a regular job on boats to strip the lacquer and re-varnish masts as it doesn't last indefinitely in the sun. Never seen any advice to do anything but wear the appropriate dust mask and do it in a well ventilated area.
Procedure with masts is to sand it back to the carbon fibers, then varnish with 2 part polyurethane varnish, sand down, varnish, sand varnish until you get the desired finish (and I guess in a seat post, thickness).
Presume a FFP3 face mask will be fine
It's only really a risk if you're doing this day in, day out. Do it outdoors with a simple face mask to be sure and you'll be fine.
Not sure I agree, I'd prefer not to inhale carbon dust at all
I've ordered the mask and sandpaper
Be sure to allow plenty of time for the lacquer to dry before shoving the post back down the tube.
Wet polish with water as a lubricant to collect the dust. When we cut cured material with a diamond wheel we use lots of water to lubricate the blade and keep the dust down.
Wet and dry used wet should be safe.
Photos when done, I have an ec70 that could do with the same.
tbh if you are sanding the carbon fibres you are doing it VERY wrong.
you should just be flatting back the lacquer that is on there and just touching the epoxy surface. I would even go as far to say just gently flat back any loose bits and key the surface and spray with some new lacquer. If needed rub that back when it's hard and then apply another thin coat.
Keep checking the fit in your frame.
The weightweenies guys swear by the back of a scalpel blade ie the square edge dragged towards you.
Tried it on some roadie brake lever blades and it was certainly quicker than sanding. Finish off with some fine wet n dry and relacquer