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cant get to shop to sort out for a period of time, turns out my chain was too long from new (shop didnt spot it, nevermind!) have now taken links out and chain is correct length etc but shifting is now out of sync (was fine before with chain too long)
so what do i need to adjust? its now not shifting down in some gears, but shifts up absolutly fine through all
would still assume the limit screws are ok, shall i unscrew the cable stop and start the process from there? pretty sure it should be easily doable now?
Check the b screw.
Top of the upper pulley to bottom of the largest sprocket should be 12mm-16mm. Once I set this, my shifting worked fine. Shortening the chain will change this.....
paul cheers
are there any sram tech docs online hiding away? i cant seem to find any?!
i thought it would have been to do with taking links out (4 in fact!) so probably quite a dramatic differnce needed to get it right again?
im guessing the limit screws should be exactly the same though right?
Would check limit screws as it only takes a few mins. The lower is not set inline like normal, it's in the Sram setup guide. My Xx1 is very sensitive to cable tension 1/4 of a turn wrong and it rubs on the rear cassette in the lower gears. Fine in the workstand but makes a noise when riding,.very annoying.
cheers boxfish, nice one never seen them before! 🙂
will check the screws l/h as just seen on that DHdave- the smallest cog says its needs to be set OUTSIDE edge (not central) to the bottom cog, im pretty sure these will be setup OK anyways as they were shfiting up and down fine prior to the 4 link removal
but thanks, touch wood shouldnt be to difficult to get running smooth again 🙂
just one last quickie, my barrell adjuster at present is wound all the way in (or out) not sure which way, but will basically only turn one way, is it worth winding it out a few turns after ive released the cable or leaving be?
Pre-stretch your cable if you can. Make sure your barrel adjuster is a few full turns out when you set the cable tension. That way you can increase and decrease as the cable tension on the fly.
Well that went pleasantly well 😆
No need to adjust cable tension, just basically as above the b tension screw as I'd removed four links it was about 35mm away top jockey wheel to bottom of cassette (should be 12-16mm as per instructions and per above ) turned it to around inbetween 12-16 checked high and low screws (which seemed spot on) and shifting seems pretty flawless in the stand going through every gear and back up fine, know sometimes it can be a bit different in a stand to real world so had a little spin and now shifting like a dream and like new as it should be
Thanks for those tips and links wouldn't have done it without that 🙂
anyones rear mech developed a "knock"
I'm glad you've got it sorted. Like I mentioned, the right b screw setting makes a huge difference.
Dirty rider I believe if you google knocking xx1 mtbr on google you will find similar from over in the us forum mtbr but I think they were the very early versions maybe?
Yep cheers getonyourbike it seems like the sweet spot is defo in between 12-16mm then shifting seems spot on! Chuffed to bits with it though it runs superbly
yer its a launch day mech, ive read the thread, ill give it a strip down