The instructions for setting the rebound rate on rear shocks are pretty clear. The shock should return in a controlled manner. Not like an undamped pogo stick but not so slow as the rear of the bike packs down and then bottoms out on bumpy terrain.
My question (at last) should you set it when seated on the bike. It must make a difference to how the shock behaves when its got 11 stone sitting on it.
If you were setting up a lightweight racing car you would always do it with the driver on board.
I find that usually I am only 3 or 4 clicks from the slowest setting.
No, i want it performing at its best when standing. I pretty much ignore what it's doing if i'm seated
And you set the sag first
So would you set the rebound when standing? After setting the sag of course.
I set rear sag standing. Sitting is fine, many prefer it as it’s always the same. I then ride off things and set rebound
Set sag.
Ride bike and keep setting rebound quicker and quicker until it gets a bit bucky then wind it back in a click.😉
Not sure how you could set rebound without riding the bike.
My last technique was actually: "huh Fox now tell you where to set it", set as per manual, ride stuff, move one click slower, end.
I set both rear sag (this one first obviously) and rebound seated, for the simple reason that it is a more repeatable position and weight distribution.
I always start setting rebound using the good old "going down a curb seated while looking at the shock" method. Full closed at first, then keep opening one click each time until it recovers the compression by going a tiny bit over sag point.
Then it's a matter of going to the trails and assess if the rear end feels either choppy or dead. Being on flat pedals generally means that checking if it's still easy to lift the rear wheel at will while still having a planted ride is a good indication for rebound setting. On my experience the final setting is generally either spot on or one click faster than the curb test
Set your rebound by riding off a kerb slowly and adjust till it doesn’t pogo. Then when you ride it on a trail adjust it from that setting.
Does standing and sitting really matter, when the shock extends quickly the bike is going to be unweighted to a degree anyway, whether you are passing over a crest or a hole.
I think it does matter for the setup procedure (the kerb one) in the sense that sitting down allows for a easily repeatable position and more consistent weight distribution at each run.
This is the same reason why I never set forks by sag, way too difficult to keep a consistent body position between measurements
I don't think riding down a curb will do more than get you into the ballpark, unless that's the only kind of riding you do. You need to actually ride the bike on a typical section of trail and repeat with small adjustments each time. If you're riding fast stuff with small high-frequency bumps you'll probably want different rebound settings than if you're dropping into big stuff at slow speed. If you're riding trails with extreme variation, it's probably going to be a compromise and you need to decide what's best for you. I tend to prefer slightly overdamped compared to my friends.
@zezaskar I agree with the idea that sitting allows for consitency. I did wonder why the Ohlins manual said to set fork sag while seated normally and not standing like other manufacturers recommend and only 10% sag which didn't seem right to me. But it turned out that 10% while seated translates to 25/30% while standing for me depending how far forward I lean so that is a good illustration of what you said.
I think what @spooky_b329 says about the unweighted moments of suspension travel doesn't really come into it when setting rebound as the rebound control is really to control oscilations while the suspension is weighted
+1 for the sitting kerb set-up then adjust on the trail. I go a bit less damped than kerb usually. I readjust for temperature too if there has been a decent change.
Given that rebound damping is working to control the return of the spring, it's pretty easy for manufacturers to work out.
If they offer a table of spring rate Vs rebound settings, chances are it will be a good starting point.
Compression on the other hand is influenced by bigger variables.
If you’re riding fast stuff with small high-frequency bumps you’ll probably want different rebound settings than if you’re dropping into big stuff at slow speed.
That's why you have high and low speed damping circuits