Gonna switch my inbred over to 1x9 for a change. However, am unsure how the setup will work with my slots. I was thinking that I could just push the wheel all the way forward and fix with a QR (no tug - or should I use those taper lock things that go on the axle) but can't quite see how my disc will fit? Taken a pic to show what I mean showing the current s/s setup.
[URL= http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8240/imag0187i.th.jp g" target="_blank">
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8240/imag0187i.th.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Cheers and one day I will contribute rather than just asking questions.
Andy
Wheel forward and just QR will work.
cheers - so i dont need a bigger bracket for my brake then?
What do you mean by a bigger bracket?
you shouldnt do. If the brake lugs are welded on in the right place then with the brake as far forward as it goes then it should be spot on with the wheel right forward.
Your best bet would be to set up the wheel in the drop outs as far forward as they go and then check the bake fits right. If the caliper does need to go slightly further forward then use washers between the caliper and adapter to shift it a little at a time. Get some nice large and very flat ones - not cheap little stamped ones. It is quite possible that you will need to do this as the accuracy can be a little off sometimes 😉
Oh and the pad should rub exactly on the inside radius of the braking area - ie you don't want any of the braking area left untouched and you don't want to protrude onto the spider legs too much (<1mmm)
edit: I've just noticed you have avid brakes - you have adjustment washers already there so they can use the same adapter with 180 185/185mm discs so you have adjustment there.
great cheers andyl - should be good to go now:)
if it is taper lock you should have taper lock whether it is SS/ geared.
but yeah - run it right at the front. brake should have enough adjustment.
If the brake lugs are welded on in the right place
they are not.
i have the same frame, and you would think, being a cookie cutter piece of steel plate, laser cut or similar, they would make the foremost dropout position, line up with the foremost brake position.
Sadly not the case
if you run the wheel right forward in the dropouts, the wheel wont turn, it snags on the caliper body
or at least mine does, with hayes nines)
i tried spacing mine out with washers, but ended up buying a tug.
tbh, it doesnt make much difference really.
annoying OO couldnt get the brake mount right though!
also, you should be using the taperlock nuts ANYWAY?
i dont see any in your piccy.
you will be bending the back end, and subsequently your brake alignment without them (though the juicys will probably be ok actually, as they ahve the funny little angle adjustment washers
[img] 
[/img]
I thought the taper lock came out as a revision?
These are the washers: http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WSOOTPRLCK/on-one-taper-lock-washer-(pair)
Do you fit them with the lug at the front thus stopping the axle going as far forward and the disc jamming on the caliper body?
cheers olly - i didn't realise they were meant to be used regardless, thought it was when you didnt have a tug - i do have a pair, came with the frame.
i will go forth and fit them - lugs forward (?) and all and my surly tug as I dont like my on-one tug, kept coming loose (granted threadlock would have been cheaper!)
No problems on my 29er version.
Hi All - I have been through this now!
So just incase anyone searches for this/is interested in it
With my avid breaks, I used the taper locks and a QR (despite on-one saying to use tugs). However, as documented the brake caliper will be high enough to clear the top of the disc but it will be to far inward so the disc rubs on the frame.
Therefore I spaced the caliper on the inside using the little threaded o-ring (or whatever you call it) that you get on your presta valve.
Works a treat now!