As my son is taking his bike back to Uni for a year of hard riding with the uni club, thought I'd give his Yari RLs a bit of TLC, as I don't think they've ever been serviced! Changed the oil, dust seals, etc, but couldn't get the air damper out. Pulled pretty hard but it wouldn't budge. So, as they were working just fine before some idiot touched them, reassembled..
Tried the bike the next morning and they'd lost all air. Soon as I put weight on them they compressed and the red travel o-ring disappeared into the seal! Took apart. checked everything, all seemed ok. Next morning, no air.
Any clues to what I've done?
Air damper out?
You mean the negative chamber/ seal head bit?
To open that up you have to remover a circlip
Point on the diagram?
couldn’t get the air damper out.
Was it the damper OR the air spring you tried to remove?
If it was the air spring did you remove the circlip before trying to pull the shaft out?
And did you have the top cap completely off that leg before removing the circlip and pulling the shaft out?
It was the air spring, yes - top cap was removed and removed the circlip. The bottom of the air spring only protruded from the stanchion about 2mm and wouldn't budge any further. I didn't want to force it!
Like this. So the part marked as SA Seal head, came out a very short way. Then I bottled pulling it any further, so re-assembled.
I often thread a bolt into the air shaft to aid removal. You can use the bottom bolt, but a longer one with the same thread makes it easier.
If you want to know where the air leak is you can inflate it and spray with soapy water, it will bubble.
I often thread a bolt into the air shaft to aid removal. You can use the bottom bolt, but a longer one with the same thread makes it easier.
+1 .. I also stick a big washer on as well..
Like this. So the part marked as SA Seal head, came out a very short way. Then I bottled pulling it any further, so re-assembled.
One way or another you're pulling it apart again so just crack on.
Did you change crush washers ?? Is the circlip/c-ring thing seated properly and the right way up ?? (Sharp corners out)
Sometimes they come out like a gunshot ...
Thanks guys!
Yeah, will try the bolt/washer job and pull harder then!
Changed the o-ring on the top cap, both crush washers (2nd time around, as those buggers are hard to remove), circlip right way up yep.
I've now ordered one of the £30odd replacement air-springs from Tredz, so will yank the old one out and replace it.
By Sunday 😳
I'd also check the valve on the topcap.
Had a mystery deflating fork the other day and it was leaking from the valve.
Fitted a new Schrader core to cure it.
Last time I ended up pushing it out with a breaker bar handle, I couldn't get enough purchase on the spring rod to pull it
[i]Fitted a new Schrader core to cure it.[/i]
Cool - I got one of those in the service kit
Pushing will be an option now I have a replacement.
Pushing will be an option now I have a replacement.
Be very carful what you do this with. Don't use anything that could scratch the inside of the tube.
👍
They sometimes get sucked in by the negative spring - I just stick a clean rag round the bottom of the foot and pull really hard. When it goes it’s a huge pop.
If your current seal head is black it’s probably worth getting a B1 or C1 debonair spring replacement with the red anodised seal head. Both increase the size of the negative spring so make the fork more active on small bumps
C1 is what I ordered yep, so should be good. Thanks
In this vid, 5:38, he takes the parts out the bottom of the stanchion not the top.
Also just before when he removes the circlip, its pointed out that the clip has a rough side that faces out. I dont know if thats critical, but worth noting.
Think i mightve found the issue - the o-ring on the top cap! Should it be a square shaped profile? I’m sure i would've swapped it like for like, but the round one on there doesn’t look right, the squarer one would definitely be a better fit!
Round section are typically for static seals, square ones for dynamic seals.
I think your round one is right for the top cap. The square one will be for the main air piston.
Yeah, checking photos on the web, looks like I had the right one on there. Dammit
Pushing will be an option now I have a replacement.
If you decide to push it be very careful not to scratch the inside of the stanchion. I would recommend just pulling it out the bottom, easily done with a good tug one you have purchase.
I wouldn’t push it from the inside - too risky
All good folks - must've used the wrong rubber seal on the top cap... just to try it, I swapped the top cap off my Pikes onto them yesterday. Just tried them and they feel great. What a relief. Will have a spare air spring to fit to them next time he returns from uni. Massive relief I hadn't killed them anyway. Thanks for all the replies
I'm back - so my lad had a big Uni club ride on the bike yesterday - said the forks were fine, pressure remained - but he also said the red travel o-ring got pulled down into the dust seal again. Would that be cos when I did it it stretched the seal, or have I bought dodgy seals?
Are the garter springs on the seals? Does sound like a dodgy fork wiper seals. Which brand are they?
but he also said the red travel o-ring got pulled down into the dust seal again
I've never had that happen ... and I was stupid enough to run the kids forks (shared ones set for 40kg not 70kg) on some big drops until I did a poor landing and had the BIGGEST bottom out I've ever had (gunshot type loud - everyone looked) .. must have smashed into the bottom out really hard but the O ring didn't get sucked in (SKF LF wiper seals - green ones)
Yep, the springs were on.
I'll check with the dealer I bought them off (ebay seller - he's sold loads to be fair)
Genuine Rockshox seals. Ah well, tis an odd thing
Genuine Rockshox seals. Ah well, tis an odd thing
the red travel o-ring got pulled down into the dust seal again
Is it being pulled or pushed?
Has it gone all saggy?
TBH if the seals can't stop that going in I can't see them keeping much dirt out...
Yeah, that's what I thought. Bike is 3 hours drive away now though, so it'll just have to survive as is!