Nice Cranks - What Options?

EEWings? Stupid money, but light and can take a beating, and even if they succumb, I’ve heard stories that Cane Creek really go the extra mile on warranty/crash replacement (10 years).

There’s also Sturdy Cycles, if EEWings aren’t spendy enough. Can’t comment on durability yet though.

Or Locked (Kingdom sub brand) components, But they kinda look like someone explained what EEWings looked like over a poor phone connection…

5Dev cranks seem to be standing up to abuse, and are a bit out of the ordinary.

Newer Hopes are same system as .ost others, single self extracting bolt and a preload collar, was just the older ones were a tricky fit.

Unite do some nice ones.

The middleburn cranks i have are lovely. Fit and removal is easy. I like cranks that tighten to a positve stop a d dont rely on pinch bolts.

Pedals fit on the ends🙄🤣 they are shiny

Another vote for Cane Creek eeWings. Seems like silly money on paper but a set will outlast the universe. The last crankset you will ever buy.

I'd personally avoid anything carbon because the pedal thread inserts have a tendency to de-bond. Not so good if out of warranty.

Another vote for Cane Creek eeWings. Seems like silly money on paper but a set will outlast the universe. The last crankset you will ever buy.

They're welded Ti, like a frame it's a lottery whether they'll crack or not. Or at least the durability is still to be proven. They do look nice but having had 10+ years from XT and XTR cranks I don't buy into the durability point here. They'll also still wear slowly from ankle scuff.

Cane Creek really go the extra mile on warranty/crash replacement (10 years).

- this certainly helps though

I can't see past XTR for top-end cranks. The axle to crank connection is excellent and a 24mm axle is a bonus for greater bearing space. Middleburns perhaps, though I've only had the pre-BETD square taper versions and Sq T wouldn't be my choice for MTB.

i have 2 pairs of XTR cranks, they are both heavily gauged from rock strikes, looked real nice before then, never noticed this problem on slx or XT usage :0(

Ingrid
5Dev
EE wings are lovely. but i cant see them being worth 3x the cost of most other expensive cranks. unless youve got cash to burn.
stay away from carbon. seen far too many break.

As mentioned above. the Hope Evo cranks attach the same way as SRAM with a big 8mm allen key upto 50nm. aluminium preload collar. self extracting for removal. Really easy. My RX cranks have a very definite stop when they are tight.

buying now. id go for middleburn. I love the slightly old school look of them.

I can’t see past XTR for top-end cranks. The axle to crank connection is excellent and a 24mm axle is a bonus for greater bearing space.

Agree.

Fans of the old school look may wish to check out Engin Cycles Port Royal Cranks.

https://engincycles.com/all-products/engin-crankset

+1 for Unite.

Thanks all for the comments so far.

Still thinking its out of Hopes/Middleburn and now the Unites (wasn't aware of those but look nice, decent weight and UK made etc). I don't need (does anyone?) Ti cranks and certainly aren't paying a grand for a set! Beauty of the Middleburns being I wouldn't need a new BB as well...

Is there a reason for running "nice" cranks?

I run 165mm SLX cranks on my Hightower and judging by how bashed up they are, i wouldn't want to be running anything that has cost me a significant outlay!

I did look at EEwings and also Hope when i was building the bike up but decided I'd rather spend the cash on nice wheels/electronic gears!

FYI - Unite seem to have very frequent 20% off deals, worth being on their maiing list for a bit if you are interested

JONO20 was working yesterday......

If you want non fash but durable - then Shimano, Middleburn, unite, dmr etc basically anything that isn't carbon.

If you have cash to splash then eewings, I own two sets they are silly light but also a comparatively expensive and you don't get any perceptible performance increase.

Slightly less cash than EEwing's but just as flash imo would be Garbaruk or Ingrid

yup.. dont get hte nice crank thing...
XT's sit at pretty much the top of the tree for general riding as far as im concerned, and cost very little more than other option's chainrings
i can't say id notice flex.. but hte next option for me for realistic cost etc would be the cheapest sram carbons to save a 1-200 gram
every other crnak i loook at is no lighter from what i can tell
Rotor make some lovely alumnium cranks
you'd have to tell me why hope are a good option...

XTRs here. acouple of sets of 970s bought second hand that have been faultless and a pair of 9100s that I ponied up new money for - looked beautiful for the first ride, then started getting (like all Shimano cranks) ankle scuffs and rock gouges. Light, tough, stiff enough, 24mm axle so BB bearings last fine.

EEwings would be my choice if I was spending more than that as they just don't seem to wear out and can be made to look like new again with a bit of elbow grease. They do seem to come loose occasionally, and they have a 30mm axle, which might well mean more BB woes. (no plastic sealing tube between the bearings on a BSA BB). But I can't justify spending THAT much more!!

Hopes are heavy for the money.

I got the middlburns because they are shiny.

I wont use shimano ones with the pinch bolt.

Sorry mods, shouldn't have included that link. Warning all over the real Ingrid site about the dodgy fakes being sold.

Ahhhhhh I forgot about those Ingrid ones. Beautiful.

eewings, I own two sets

*wide eyes emoji*

Fair dues though, I like your attitude to it all.

It's dull but

24mm axle is a bonus for greater bearing space

Is worth consideration but I put even greater value on a nice readily available direct mount chainring standard.

*wide eyes emoji*

Fair dues though, I like your attitude to it all.

In my defense, the second I bought second hand and cost less than the RRP of a set of slx....😁 The first set I bought to go on my ti fat bike when I bought the frame, imports from the US & were still cheaper than any UK set.

Is worth consideration but I put even greater value on a nice readily available direct mount chainring standard.

Dont get Ingrid's then - dedicated for there own chainring, which also costs about the same as a set of slx cranks.

I really, really want a set of 5Dev, just like them, to my eyes they look lovely

I run 165mm SLX cranks on my Hightower and judging by how bashed up they are, i wouldn’t want to be running anything that has cost me a significant outlay!

I have those on all my MTBs.

They are very nice cranks and pretty light. Does it matter that they're not very expensive?

You can bling them up with aftermarket chainrings if you want to show off.

Can't rate the Middleburn RS8's highly enough, always been super reliable, and their customer service excellent.

Related question, for those who've ordered bits from the USA, have you got stung on import fees? And have you used "FedEx Duties & Taxes included" shipping which would imply that I wouldn't get stung for duty/tax on top, but I'm not confident that it'd work that way.

I'm potentially looking at some nice shiny bits which are only available in the US for my next bike 😁😎

Related question, for those who’ve ordered bits from the USA, have you got stung on import fees? And have you used “FedEx Duties & Taxes included” shipping which would imply that I wouldn’t get stung for duty/tax on top, but I’m not confident that it’d work that way.

No, yes. Works perfectly.

Related question, for those who’ve ordered bits from the USA, have you got stung on import fees? And have you used “FedEx Duties & Taxes included” shipping which would imply that I wouldn’t get stung for duty/tax on top, but I’m not confident that it’d work that way.

Sometimes Yes and sometimes no (depends on the item and how good at forms the seller is)

FedEx system Yes - works fine, and works out faster than items going through customs, waiting for release and then payment

No, yes. Works perfectly.

FedEx system Yes – works fine, and works out faster than items going through customs, waiting for release and then payment

Awesome, cheers!

Well, not awesome for my bank account but shiny stuff isn't cheap 😁

Stupid thread has me on the cusp on buying ingrid cranks now

Between the PSA's, Tom's internet rummagings, and threads like these, STW is quite often bad for the bank balance.

Has anyone got a set of Unite cranks and are they any good?

Is worth consideration but I put even greater value on a nice readily available direct mount chainring standard.

Good point. My last few 1x setups have all been running 4-bolt chainrings. What is a readily available direct mount standard? 30mm axles?? That could have a bearing (no pun intended) on my decision as I'm err'ing towards Middleburn but their rings seem to be £80/£90 a pop AND I've just noticed aren't 12 speed Shimano compatible which I need.

@honourablegeorge - I'll add myself to Unite's mailing list as the cranks look like a decent option and 20% off potentially makes it even more appealing.

I don’t think Middle urn have any 165mm cranks in stock as I looked a few weeks ago.

If folks aren’t running their own standard, SRAM 3 bolt is popular. Though it’s got wide tolerances, I’ve had to get stuff re machined where it fits a SRAM crank, but not an EEWings, despite both being the same ‘standard’.

Rings available in all sizes, £15 - £350

I'd like eewings. But what I have, is old XTRs, because they're absolutely fantastic- not much heavier than the lightest cranks I'd consider fitting, stiff enough that I never think about whether they're stiff or not, and indestructible. 2 sets are at least a decade old. The newer ones are like 10 grams lighter, woo

What is a readily available direct mount standard?

SRAM I’d say. Used by SRAM, Cane Creek, Unite and others, just have to check the specs. It means you can buy boutique, SRAM, Superstar etc and then when 13 speed comes out you won’t have long to wait before a suitable ring is available for your cranks 😀

stiff enough that I never think about whether they’re stiff or not, and indestructible

I don’t doubt they are but when making these statement shouldn’t you quote your own personal specs? Like, what do you weigh? Dripping wet? 😀

Do direct mount cranks have any real world advantage over a set of slightly older Shimano hollowtech 4 bolt cranks on a 73mm external BB? Apart from being able to run tiny chain rings?

They mean you don’t need to change crank if you swap between Boost, non boost or super boost frames, as its all done by the offset in the chainring (SRAM 3 bolt anyway) so you only change that.

Is worth consideration but I put even greater value on a nice readily available direct mount chainring standard.

Is new XTR / XT direct mount option well-supported? I haven't looked but had been wondering if XTs with an AM spider might be the next set of cranks I'd buy. Hoped it'd become better supported than previous XTR-specific ring BCDs anyway.
I agree, being able to get new spiders or direct mount rings is a good thing. One of the reasons I got the Middleburns a while back.

Oneup's spider system works well for Shimano 12 speed and means replacement rings cost a little less. But only works with oneup rings.

Actofive as another option?
https://www.actofive.com/parts/coming-soon-signature-crankset-2

Rotor?

Hollowgrams?

Leonardi Capo?

Boone for something really unusual?
https://booneti.com/collections/cranks/products/boone-twist-machined-aluminum-bike-cranks

For me it is always hard to see past SRAM carbon cranks. Can be had pretty cheaply depending on the axle type required, lighter than almost anything and hassle free.

For me it is always hard to see past SRAM carbon cranks. Can be had pretty cheaply depending on the axle type required, lighter than almost anything and hassle free

Here’s the ‘almost anything’ in carbon. 299g, but €1300. https://bikerumor.com/thms-new-299g-clavicula-xc-mountain-bike-cranks-222g-1-piece-road-cockpit-ultralight-schmolke-bars/

Useless for the OP though, 170mm minimum.

Rubber_Buccaneer
Full Member

I don’t doubt they are but when making these statement shouldn’t you quote your own personal specs? Like, what do you weigh? Dripping wet?

Well yep, I weigh 10 stone but since I bought 'em all used they've probably also been tested by heavier people 🙂

https://www.whiteind.com/product-category/cranks/

Oneup’s spider system works well for Shimano 12 speed and means replacement rings cost a little less. But only works with oneup rings.

Not what I'm after personally but it's a good system, I like how it allows fast ring swaps.

How about some light weight steel cranks?

https://bikepacking.com/news/cyber-cranks-new/

Daft name and the Q is a touch on the wide side (narrower for shorter versions?) but if these are welded straight the spec looks great,

Integrated HT2 24mm spindle
68mm and 73mm bottom brackets
SRAM 3-bolt direct mount
Optional 110mm or 104mm spider
8mm allen key to assemble and extract
Spring-loaded bearings
465g incl. all hardware
Q-Factor: 174mm (length 175mm)
Custom lengths between 160-190mm

CYBER CRANKS 175mm raw: 450€
Custom Spider BCD 110mm: 55€
Custom Length: +25€
Powder coat white, black, silver: +25€

Pricey but not bonkers if the quality is there.

Hope EVO's are good - get them in silver so they dont scuff (paint should never be applied to cranks!)

eewings look great but I could not justify them if they were half the price.

Shimano have always done the best cranks for me. The old silver XT cranks basically last forever looking brand new. they are super lightweight and cheap (dont know why other brands do not use Hollow forge technique - copyright?)
Unfortunately the latest shimano cranks all come with paint on (even xtr). I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

We need pics of that!

I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

We need pics of that!

Yes, pictures please!

I have a very boring set of GX alloy cranks which I'd like to do the same to. Does the caustic soda dissolve the anodising and then you just wipe it off or did you need to spend time sanding it? I reckon I'd go for a wire wool finish if it do it myself.

I'll sort out pics tonight

the caustic soda does a grand job of removing anodizing
I use warm water to kick start the reaction - then its self heating
I find the best way is to dunk for 30 seconds then use a metal scouring pad to remove the stubbern bits (not as abrasive as wire wool but that might work). I find about 4 cycles of this is usually enough.

With the XT cranks I covered the interfaces with melted candle wax to protect them (pedal threads, chain ring and axle interface etc ). that might also not have been necessary but better safe than sorry.

Hmmm, I have a buggered drive side XT crank (bent pedal threads after a mammoth pedal strike) which I could use as a test crank... 🤔😁

ndthornton

Hope EVO’s are good – get them in silver so they dont scuff (paint should never be applied to cranks!)

The way that the coloured Hopes are machined effectively pre-scuffs them, my black ones look good as new, all the rub happens on bits that are already raw

I have a very boring set of GX alloy cranks which I’d like to do the same to. Does the caustic soda dissolve the anodising and then you just wipe it off or did you need to spend time sanding it? I reckon I’d go for a wire wool finish if it do it myself.

Yes, caustic soda and a polishing wheel on a drill after scrubbing the bulk of the ano off. I did some old XTs ages ago. They look great for a short while then the oxidisation dulls them. Winter road salt and cowshit eats into the Al. Some appeal to the scrubbed look though. This was the sort of thing that promised good looks and delivered much less after some use ..

That looks awesome 😎 but how do they look after a winter of use? Would keeping them as a brushed finish rather than polished help?

@jameso

You look just like JJ in the reflection on your crank arm.😏

I think whatever you do to some extent they'll just look like raw Al that's been scrubbed with wire wool then oxidised and marked by dirt and all the crap on the trail. Which isn't the worst look, I've seen new 'anodised bling' stuff that looks worse tbh

You look just like JJ in the reflection on your crank arm.😏

Steady on..

: )

Just meant that Jeff's XTRs prompted a lot of crank polishing back then. They certainly aren't old XTs / mine!

I know mate we've all been there polishing our old XT cranks because of Jeff.😎

Love the look of those steel cranks up there.
They'd look great on my raw steel Marino.
But suspect they rust just as badly.

I do like the look of those steel cranks up there.
To answer the OP, I'm a big fan of middleburns. I've got a few sets, with no issues over the years. The look of them is hard to beat.
The direct mount ring issue is a bummer, I wish they would do the sensible thing and tweak it to take the race face standard. I use spiders on mine.
I'm selling a set of black 165s as it happens....
I recently got a new bike with the option of EEwings at a slightly less bonkers price than rrp, I couldn't say no🙂
Deffo a heart over head purchase, but they are truly lush. They've just had a week of smashing into Alpujarran rock as a first outing, so are looking distinctly used now.

Xt cranks, stripped not polished

Xt cranks, stripped not polished

I really like this finish as it is, I wonder if I could do this and then apply some kind of clear coat / lacquer to keep them this way.

I think they need to be polished to look really nice, I'll stick with my XT's as they are - tbh if I get a power meter one for the non-driveside it'd look a bit strange anyway!

Things over here have escalated quickly. First I found some oven cleaner under the sink, then I decided to do a spot test and see if it would do the job.

Which it did, so...

I'll let you know how bad they look in about 15 minutes.

I'm maybe suggest not putting it on the axle or the axle/crank interface

Hard to see in the photo but I’ve wrapped the axle and interfaces all up in clear gorilla tape.

It's been taped off, although you can already seen the anodising being worn off on the spindle by the bottom bracket.

Looking good so far, I’ll get them with the scotchbrite this evening to clean them up and take off the apparently painted bits.

Race Face have just released a new version of the turbines.

Engin Cycles Port Royal are expensive and uncommon.

Middleburn are shiny and probably in stock.

Xt cranks, stripped not polished

I really like this finish as it is, I wonder if I could do this and then apply some kind of clear coat / lacquer to keep them this way.

I imagine any clear coat or lacquer will very quickly wear off from foot rub. What about acid etching stripped alu cranks to stop the oxiding?

I explored similar when deciding what to do with the finish on my 2 x raw alu frame. I've acid etched one of them, while the other/newer frame I simply protected with a few layers of carnuba wax. Both holding up well so I assume it'd also provide a longer-lasting decent finish on raw alu cranks. Issue I had was sweat drips staining the frame previously - 9 months later it's still looking as good as when I did it barring usual riding scars.

I describe what I did about halfway down this thread, although the photo link is now fubared so here it is below: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cleaning-up-raw-aluminium-how-and-with-what/

I'm tempted to strip and acid etch the scuffed SLX cranks on this bike:

That oven cleaner did an impressive job, I might try it on some oil slick saddle rails now the novelty has worn off

You don't need lacquer
The cranks in the pic have been sat there fot weeks like that. The oxide layer is barely noticeable and protects. I have been running a set of stripped one-up pedals and my liteville 301 frame is just bare aluminium...10 years old and looks like new

I have the Hope Evo cranks with a Hope BB, and they’ve been fine for a couple of years now. Very well made indeed, better than anything that’s comparable in price. They may have a slight weight penalty over some some other cranks, but I’ll take that for Hope’s legendary quality and service. Seen enough modern Shimano cranks snapped or otherwise failed. Plus you can fit various spiders to accept different bolt patterns, or fit direct mount chainrings. So very versatile.

Phwoarrr

Really couldn’t be happier with how these came out.

I’ll give them a go with no extra finish on top and see how they fare.

Nice! Was that just finished off with a scotchbrite pad? They've come up very nice.

A word about stripping anodising; the anodising actually prevents oxidisation of the surface of the aluminium, so if that is stripped off, the untreated surface will naturally oxidise, leaving a dull surface. So if you want shiny, you’ll either have to keep polishing, or get it re-anodised.