[Closed] Light weight wheels?

Hope Pro 3 SP-AM4 on DT EX500.

Ridden at trail-centres and local xc stuff.

Light enough for XC - (Could go lighter if I was more XC focused)
Strong enough for Trails (and much more) and could go stronger if I was more DH focused.

XM719s & 20mm XT over 2kg the pair

Sideways load during a fairly ordinary front wheel washout caused the hub to fall through the wheel. Rim was '8' shaped

How are either of those even remotely light!? 😕

For my race wheels I've got A2Z hubs, Podium MMX rims and Revolution spokes with alu nips - 1246g with yellow tape and valves. I like them, done most of my riding on them, did Afan and they were fine, plus race courses up and down the country. Same build on Crests would still be c1300g and plenty tough enough as an all round wheel.

Depends on your budget and requirements. You can do sub-1000g reasonably easily - Innolite XCC250s on Extralite SPD hubs with Sapim Superspokes. Tubs it's rather easier.

I'd say 1300g is into 'very light' for MTB wheels though.

i use mavic crossmax st on the bandit and sx on the bottlerocket. love em 🙂

Easton Haven Carbons. If they made them in a 150mm rear I'd probably try running them on my DH bike. Ridiculously strong and light.

Got them on my Yeti DJ and they didn't explode when I cased a bit of stair gap on them...

For the money concious Easton Haven alloy's or Havoc Alloys arn't exactly heavy.

Also cheap on CRC at the moment.

How are either of those even remotely light!?

Aye, very true!

Like I say, all depends on your budget and your requirements, for example Jedi's are rather different to mine 😉

!300g does sound very light for mtb? I'm a fan of hope hubs for the pure fact they are easy to do maintenance. Like the look/weight of the mavic crossmax range but what are the hubs like to service/durability? Also just had a quick look at the superstar/stans range for a budget option, don't look to bad?

I think the budget could be very relevant here !

I Use the American Classic MTB26 Tubeless wheels and love them. They are as light as many carbon wheels.

I do XC and some general AM style riding and after 2 years they are faultless. You may be able to get stiffer wheels that weigh the same and cost a LOT more.... but for what they cost, they have been superb.

I got mine here >

http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1466/product

All the best.

Nig

Stans hubs and Olympic rims here, running at 1450g. They are light. None of the wheels mentioned above apart from njee's and the American Classics are. Hope hubs will not build an especially light wheel. DT Swiss make decent light hubs that cost a lot, the ones that the likes of a2z and stans rebrand are cheaper and light but spares are harder to find. American Classic are the best ready built.

Stans rims are the answer for light wheels. Some of them with some of the hubs above will do nicely. My Olympics are 4 years and several thousand miles old and are still perfectly straight and round. In fact they have outlasted the first hubs they were on. I haven't done the saddest stuff on these but have ridden hard and a lot on them and I get in the air on them quite a bit. Used foe racing in Scotland, riding in the peak at least weekly now, they are great.

You can build a set of wheels around the ~1600g mark that you can use for most things. I've been hammering a set of wheels that weight for over 12 months now & no issues. I used them for the Mega & another week in the Alps, even raced some DH on them.

I'd rather build something to that sort of weight than buy an off the shelf wheelset. Most are plagued with various problems, some more than others.

Where is the weight saved? My hopes with 29 arch rims are around 2000g.
I would like some that are 1600 ish. Can the hopes be rebuilt to that weight or do I need to buy complete?

[u][b]HobNob[/b][/u] what you running then?

Light/Cheap/Robust - choose two.

I've always found the lighter Stans rims pretty weak but then I'm a fat knacker. Both my sets of 355's are bent, but that said I've just knackered a rear Reynolds carbon one too so swings and roundabouts.

If you're racing then a set like Njee's are probably the way forward. the benefit being its a serviceable wheel so if you bust a spoke, they're a little easier to get hold of and replace. If I break a spoke in my industry 9's they're a right bastard to get hold of, similarly with the Reynolds.

I've just ordered a set of Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs with Stans Flow EX, Sapim D-Lite spokes and ally nips which are effectively bomb proof. Good for anything from XC to DH as well as only weighing in at 1770g for the pair (no tape/valve)...

I could have saved another 70g per wheel opting for the Arch EX but I figured the wider rim would work better for going tubeless and not burping whilst running 2.5's in the Alps.

Really hard to beat that for a genuine do anything all round wheelset.

I've got 2 sets of Roval Traversee ELs. About 1600g each including tubeless tape... One on a 160mm full suss, one on a 140mm hardtail. They've proved pretty durable but not bombproof, and they do need more care than some would- I reckon to go much lighter on a hard-use bike you need to start getting a bit more exotic.

One of the rims is on its last legs now but it's had a good innings. Oh and bloomin alloy nipples 🙁 Totally rebuild 2 of them with proper nipples instead, it seemed to be 50/50 whether the (DT) alu ones decided to crack or seize.

I chose not to take them to the alps- switched for my dh wheels instead- and though they've done some uplifts I feel for them when I'm doing it- they feel like they're surviving rather than eating it up tbh. But for most UK riding, enduro racing, etc, they've been grand.

Obviously they're heavy for pure XC wheels, but I wouldn't dream of using my Olympics the way I've used these.

I have a set of QR Mavic CrossRides 2011 model that I'll be selling soon, if you're interested?

njee20 - Member
How are either of those even remotely light!?

munrobiker - Member
Stans hubs and Olympic rims here, running at 1450g. They are light. None of the wheels mentioned above apart from njee's and the American Classics are

It's all relative.

It's all relative.

Yes, but you're using a rim which is heavier than that used by World Cup DH racers for "trail-centres and local xc stuff". They're not light. Good wheels, but not light.

Njee - Compared to some they may not be light but when it comes to strength to weight - they are light.

I'm using a rim that that is probably getting on a bit now but then I must admit I can't match the budget of a WC Race team...

Oh and i've previously made a rim pringle-shaped during a slow-speed crash riding local xc stuff.

Hijack.
njee20, yes I guess I could google this, but pretty sure you already know, how much would your wheel build cost, maybe just with the crest rims though?

Oh and i've previously made a rim pringle-shaped during a slow-speed crash riding local xc stuff.

Trouble is that any slow speed crash involving side loadings will annihilate virtually any rim, not much point in buying a wheel that is over kill for 99% of your riding just to put up with the crash that you may (or may not) eventually have! I've trashed a wheel on the road bike, doesn't mean I now use 36h EX729s on my Madone!

njee20, yes I guess I could google this, but pretty sure you already know, how much would your wheel build cost, maybe just with the crest rims though?

Hubs are £120
Spokes are £35 (for Revs from Germany)
Rims are £160 or so (aren't they?)
£20 for tape/valves/nips etc

Plus labour if you need someone to build them. £300-£350.

My 'normal' wheels are DT240s on Alpines, I much prefer the feel of the Podiums, very impressed with durability on the A2Z hubs too, I'd have another pair without hesitating.

I have a set of 1250g wheels:

hubs: American Classic MTB disc 130 & 225
rims: NoTubes ZTR Podium MMX
spokes: DT Swiss Revolution black
nipples: DT Swiss aluminium red
weight: 1242g (front 567g, rear 675g)

Which I took to Sardinia and spent 6 days pounding over boulder fields, cooking my brakes on descents and the only damage was one spoke snapped from a rear mech incident (on day 2, so the rear wheel survived 4.5 days missing a spoke).

Was seriously impressed by them as I didn't hold back at all..

njee20 - Member
I've trashed a wheel on the road bike, doesn't mean I now use 36h EX729s on my Madone!

Come on your being silly now. 😆

Tyres are a major factor. A big tough tyre on a light rim will be infinitely more durable and capable than a mega light skinny one. I've had a 1350g wheelset and did a lot of hard trail riding on it but it didn't feel as secure as a heavier wider set so I now use sturdy rather than light. I'm not chasing a few seconds per ride like an xc racer would.

im surprised by rim choices above.. i think those should weigh from 1700g

Stan s Flow Ex is best compromise for allround use incl. DH

Im gonna build Flow Ex with Hadley 150mm/12 and 20mm, Comp spokes and BRASS nipples (not aluminiun please if you plan to run even little dh)

wheelset is supposed to land a bit below 1900g. not far above Crossmax. The wheelset will be on real dh bike and aggressive AM/enduro bike.

if you are after trail xc nothing agressive then my wheelset may be overkill. it depends how aggresive you are 🙂

Haven't noticed anyone pointing out that it isn't just about what and how you ride but lots to do with body weight. I'm 11.9 stones and I can rag most wheels without smashing them, even my Mavic Cross rides!

Try hammering a bike with Crossrides on when your 18 stones and its new repair time soon. Just saying...

I've just lost 2lbs off my wheels, by changing from hope xc on X618 and rear mavic crossride to i9 ultralites and going tubeless. I'm around the 80kg mark but am pretty light on my kit so can afford to run lighter gear.

A2z hubs on Olympic rims here, around the 1400g mark I think. Initially I was nervous on them, just using them for racing but after 18 months or so they are still solid. Thrashed them round afan couple of weeks ago and picked up my fastest time on skyline descent (44th on strava) and that was with skinny 2.1 racing Ralph's. wheels still true. No lightweight at 85 KGB either.

As weighed/swapped today, with no tyres, disks or QR's
Giant XC-2 rims, Giant front hub, XT rear = 1981 g. Strong enough for the Passportes du Soleil this year.
Stans Crest rims, Superstar Evo hubs = 1637g. I think that's a significant saving, especially if most of it's in the rim.

You'd be mad not to get Hope hubs on crest or flow. Issue resolved.

You'd be mad not to get Hope hubs on crest or flow. Issue resolved.

Holy thread resurrection Batman, we've got a wild and outlandish statement with no facts to back it up!

This has got classic STW written all over it.

What generic out of date tyres should the OP put on his obligatory Hope Hubbed wheels? Perhaps the venerable Conti Vert Pro? Or as is fast becoming a default 15 year out of date choice now, the Panaracer Fire XC might be more appropriate?

Where's a photo of the badger blowing up a blimp when you need one?!?!

I have some Hope 1295 wheels on my anthem. They are the Hope Pro3 xc6 hub with anodized red crest rims and sapim super spokes. As the name suggests they weigh 1295g. I was initially worried about how strong they would be but not any more. After riding them for about 6 weeks they feel the stiffest of all my wheels (crossmax st on my trance and pro2 evo mavic 819's on my stifee). I don't think I would of bought such light wheels without having hopes legendary backup though.

Mine are:
Superleggera Ti hubs
Sapim CX-Ray spokes
Stans Alpine rims
1380gms
£400

Had them for a few years and used for most xc/trail stuff, Yorkshire Dales riding, only thing I don't do with them is jumps and drops (not that I do much of that). The only places I wouldn't take them is big rides in Lakes and Nth Wales, Stainburn and local play biking.

Almost ashamed to say I've got Hope Pro 2s 😉 . Built into Arch EXs (26") with Sapim D-Lights and Polyax brass nipples. Weight is about 1680g with Stan's tape. They feel sensible for the amount of rocky, rooty trails we have around here.

Tbh though, the only reason I ended up with Hopes was that everyone and their dog has them, so they're dirt cheap 2nd-hand (the whole wheelset cost about £120), and my LBS is also the national Hope distributor, so spares are never a problem.

Mine aren't superlight-light, but they're sensibly tough- Olympics on DT240s with IIRC Rev spokes. Lovely.

You can get a pretty light, pretty strong wheelset- most of my riding has been on Roval Traversee ELs, they're about 1550g and though i did find their limits, it took a lot more effort than you'd think

Two identical sets - one with Aspen 2.25's, the other with Advantage 2.25 rear, Chunky Monkey Extreme 2.4 front (seems a bit extreme on light wheels, but only 700g for the tyre)

American Classic disc hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes, Stans Crest rims.

Solid & dependable, but then I run large volume tyres (tubeless with sealant), which helps protect the wheels.

Two identical sets - one with Aspen 2.25's, the other with Advantage 2.25 rear, Chunky Monkey Extreme 2.4 front (seems a bit extreme on light wheels, but only 700g for the tyre)

Why two identical sets with very similar tyres? 😕

I get having 2 sets of different wheels (I have DT240/Alpines to use when I want to 'save' my Podiums), or having 2 similar sets one with road tyres or sommat, but that seems a bit odd!

Its all about where you want to sit in the weight/ strength/ price triangle.

Personally I have hope pro2's with Stans crest which come in around the 1600g the pair. So far these have been used for everything from XC to lift assisted Alps trips on a trail bike with no problems.

Aspens for low rolling resistance & dry terrain, Advantage/Chunky for wet or mixed conditions.
Same wheels means no re-setting brakes every time you switch wheels. Also handy as HT & FS share same set-up that way.
Have a flat bar, disc equipped CX frame set up for road use, with Conti GP 4 season tyres, so no need for road tyres on mtb wheels. Not as fast as an all out road bike, but a damn sight more comfortable!

I disagree - my road bikes are vastly more comfortable for riding on the road, than my MTB, even though the MTB is lighter than the winter road bike! But we digress.

Impressively extravagent to have a spare set of £400 wheels purely to avoid biannual tyre swap 😉

Impressively extravagent to have a spare set of £400 wheels purely to avoid biannual tyre swap

Oh I don't know about that, seems wholly reasonable to me 😉

£400 - I wish. Hubs are £300+
Bi-annual? Where have you been for the last 12 months?
Ride midweek last week dry & grippy, weekend was wet & sloppy, lots of mud & standing water.
Don't use mtb on road - have a CX frame built up. Sold the road bike as found it less & less comfortable as each year passed by.

Just to add another build option that has worked well on my RC200 for over 12 months in all conditions in the UK.

DT 240S hubs
Stans Podium MMX
DT Revolution Spokes
Alu Nipples
Stans Tape

weight: 1230g

Handbuilt to fit the Asymettric rear end, never move at all, true as they were when i built them.

The hubs are still perfect after almost 5 years on a wheelset...

Seem to be lots of love about for the 240s. Tempted to get some for a light bicycle carbon rim build but they do blow the budget somewhat.

For a lightweight build... center lock or 6 bolt?

Straight pull? Hubs seem fractionally lighter. Any cons?

Spokes are a bugger to find, they're harder to build and true. I'd not get straight pull.

6-bolt is better for lightweight, there are very very few lightweight Centerlock rotors, Absolute Black (IIRC) do some, but they're silly money.

Great hubs though 240s, upgrade the star ratchets to the 36t variant to save another 10g and double the pick up speed.

I love my podium wheels but my main mtb ( an enduro)
Has stans 3.30 hubs and arch ex rims , 1500g the pair inc tape etc
Not full on xc light but since I build them over Christmas they have been perfect
3 fod trips
1 quantocks
Plus my local stuff

For me there a good compromise used to use hope pro 3 am4 wheels
And changing to the stans ones made a huge differnace to the bike

Has anyone else had tyre retention issues on their Podiums? I had a few tyres blow off my front rim at pretty low pressure (c20psi whilst) whilst inflating. I think I damaged a rim (or the first tyre to do it did the damage, not sure what happened first!), rebuilt on a new rim, and it happened on the new one too! Most likely it was a damaged tyre that I accidentally fitted to the new rim - but I rode it several times, then it exploded in the shed!

Killed about 5 Schwalbe tyres now!

Make sure you are not using tubeless ready or UST tyres.

That's the beauty of the stans rim, you don't need a tubeless specific bead on your tyre. It means the extra money spent on the rim can be clawed back in cheaper tyres.

I have also had experience blowing up a few times trying to fit a racing ralph with a broken bead.

Not sure how much they weigh exactly but I like my olympics on DT240s. Think the spokes are supercomps, might be revs. Not superlight but light enough, and reasonably durable.

All relative though, my Flows-Comps-Pro2s on the dh bike are pretty damn light at 1850g, for a dh bike. My Traversees on the Hemlock were about 1570g but too light, hammered the rear to death.

My MTB wheels arent very light, lightest are Crest's (well, rapids, which are OEM crests with eyelets and sleved join), they don't feel any quicker than my heavier wheels TBH. But then I'm quite heavy but still keep up in most groups so weight is relatively less of an issue for me.

Saying that my road wheels are 1250g and feel great 🙂

Stans Race Gold 29ers are definitely 'too light' or maybe just 'too weak'.1350g for 29er but they use 1.8/1.5/1.8 spokes (thinner than revs!!).Pretty much the flexiest wheels I've ever seen!

Not superlight but light enough, and reasonably durable.

*comparatively

D0NK - Member

just super pricey*,

I am not the first owner TBH I mostly got them for the hubs but the wheels are so nice I just kept 'em. I don't see me ever buying a new wheelset of this quality tbh!

1.8/1.5/1.8 spokes (thinner than revs!!).Pretty much the flexiest wheels I've ever seen!

There are 2 versions of Revs - 2.0/1.5/2.0 and 1.8/1.5/1.8. Sapim Superspokes are 1.8/1.4/1.8.

Make sure you are not using tubeless ready or UST tyres.

All the ones to have failed have been Schwalbe tubeless ready - 2 Ralphs and at least 2 Dirty Dans. UST etc aren't incompatible, just tighter. I wish you could still get older Schwalbes, they did go on better. Other Schwalbe TLRs have been fine, as have Bonty and Spesh tubeless ready.

I went for a wildcard, Light Bicycle 29er all mountain Carbon rims on their Novatec hubs. These hubs are NOT light, 400g + for the rear, about 200g for the front, but they have a steel freehub body that should be more durable than the alloy equivalent (i can save 70g with an alloy version) a steel axle for strength and the weight saving is in the important place, the rims.

They are the same weight as crests, but 23mm wide internally, so running a lightweight 2.25 on it gives a lovely tyre profile and sidewall support. They are pretty quick to get up to speed and strong in the hub, while being as stiff laterally as you could want. They also feel less harsh than similar alu rims, but I dont know why and cant quantify it, so its likely "new wheels syndrome". Way stiffer than my crest 29er rims, I'm not small so they were a little twangy. The carbon rims are responsive, stiff and as a bonus, look stealthy and subtly bling... 770g front, 980 rear. Could easily drop 250g with some lighter hubs, but I'm going to run the novatecs till they die. Or I get a rush of blood to the head and buy DT240s.

Anyone know of a good reliable light 12x142 rear hub? Those A2Z only seem to have the light ones in QR flavour...

Struggle to beat 240s IMO, not least because in this day and age it's nice to have a lightweight reliable hub that's compatible with the myriad axle standards we've adopted!

*ahem*
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-new-mavic-xc717-front-wheel-xt-hub-with-ti-spokes

😉

A heavy, outdated rim, a heavy hub, a notoriously bad builder and spokes known for being flexy. Otherwise a great deal! 😉

Struggle to beat 240s IMO

got a rear 240 2nd hand and some Magura branded 440s on sale, dt do make good hubs but I can't afford rrp, so has anyone got an old front 240 for sale? 🙂

but they have a steel freehub body

They come up on the classifieds reasonably often IMO. I've got the star ratchet drive removal tool thingy (and the full 240 service kit) at my disposal, so not really an issue. That said, I've had about 10 pairs of 240s, some for 7+ years, and only changed that bearing once!

have AC patented the steel insert for their free hub bodies? Sounds a brilliant idea, pity more manufacturers don't do it

Presumably, as you say, I've not seen any other adopters. It's a great idea, but I still think people worry about the issue far too much!

Changed 440s after 4 or 5 yrs, 240 was completely seized throughout, lbs manage to keep breaking their tool apparently. I should keep a closer eye on classifieds.

Re the free hub chiggle-ing issue, I've never ruined a free hub either but seeing your shiny light ali free hub all messed up after even light use is a (ok, very minor) worry. How does the campag design manage?

Yeah, I've got 3 240 rear hubs and though I've done quite a few outer bearings the inside ones are so well protected, they last for ages.