I sorted mine out earlier, took a little time but now works as it did before it starting losing it's crispness. The manual below is handy:
[url= http://www.suzwuppertal.com/download/FB/Joplin_1.pdf ]FULL SERVICE INFO HERE[/url]
When adding the oil, use a short length of clear 5mm tubing (B&Q etc) on the end of the 60ml syringe. It neatly covers the end of the schrader valve and syringe tip saving on mess/air/faff. 60ml syringes do not fit in the valve hole!
After I'd changed the oil and re-pressured the chamber it was bouncy and wouldn't lock. I slackened the collar, pulled the lever and tightened the collar again which seemed to relieve some pressure. Now it's sorted. I'd read that you can use any thin weight oil for the refill and chose 15, it's smooth but maybe a little slower to pop up than before. It's fine but I'll probably use 5wt next time.
Hope this helps someone else 😀
After adding oil and air, releasing the lever and cycling the post gets it where it needs to be. Some good stuff on mtbr if you search maverick speedball Joplin fixes.
Used that manual a few times now and its mega useful.
Also, as mentioned in the guide, an Avid bleed fit is spot on as it screws into the valve once you've taken the core out.
Good point DBW, I think it also comes with a T10 for the torx screws.
I was looking for this last week for a mate ,good spot Herman
Hmm, think it did actually. And mine was a £10 jobbie from eBay (not the 'pants down and bend over' official Avid kit).
Epic bleed solutions do a cheap kit but I remember the torx bit being a bit delicate (or I'm a bit oafish). It would be extra handy having the clamps on the hoses, it's just easier!
Cheers Herman, been looking for a guide like this. Do you think it's possible to remove the orange collar with everything else in situ to stick a bit of grease/oil near the wiper as an after ride service?
Wozza, sure that would help. Taking the outer sleeve off (10mm nut at base, undo collar & pull apart), checking pressure and giving a wipe and lube if necessary wouldn't take much longer. I'd say once a month if you ride regularly.
I think it's important to shield the stanchion a little. I used a section of inner tube and a couple of zip ties but found it was keeping some of the crud in. I've since chopped it and secured it with elastic bands. It wraps the back, overlapping at the front with a little gap. To clean it I roll the bands out of the way, wipe/lube and replace. I guess a velcro shock boot/stanchion cover gives you easy removal and protection too.
I wouldn't go bareback.
For people who haven't done it / heard about it already, the best way to protect from muck getting in is to replace the seal at the top with one from a Fox shock. It's a proper tight fit unlike the standard one and really does the trick. I fitted one last year and haven't had to take the post to bits to clean / grease since. Before that it was every other ride. There have been threads about it before.
Got a link or anything for that part mr_mills?
Ah, that sounds good. I was thinking about them there Enduro blue seals. I guess if a Fox unit is good enough then that's the ticket. Does it affect/improve the air sealing too?
I think you can only get the seal as part of a fox shock seal kit although if you speak to Loco tuning he might be able to get them. I haven't had to top the air pressure up since fitting it to mine although I'm not sure how the seal would make a difference to that. Possibly just a coincidence. Definitely recommended if you can get one anyway.
Mills, is this the one?
[url= http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fox-racing-shox/float-shock-air-seal-kit-ec030508 ]Clicky[/url]
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Yep that's the set. It's just the seal on the far left of the pic that you're after though.