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apologies in advance, no pics, just text...
a mates bike, Whyte e-something, noticed that his cassette was a little loose/rattling... i suggested that the cassette lockring needed tightening.
decided to take the cassette off the freehub, to check if it had done any damage, nothing.... but weirdly the lockring wasnt as loose as either of us expected.
this is the first time the cassette has been removed (so, that rules out the "is it supposed to have an inboard spacer?" question)
put it all back together and started to tighten the lockring, now i know 40Nm is "damn tight", but it took up any wiggle slack but then moved further, almost like it was stripping the threads... yet it remained 'tight'
any ideas whats happened/happening?
if the threads have stripped, i assume that will be new freehub, but that doesnt explain the original slack... bearings maybe?
Road 11 speed cassette body and you are missing a space behind the MTB width cassette.
Are you sure that the last couple of sprockets are properly engaged on the freehub? It's possible to get one of them out of true by a couple of notches, it'll look right but one of them will be out of whack...
40Nm isn’t all that tight, especially with a long spanner/ratchet/cassette tool. If you haven’t frequently done up lockrings and without a torque wrench to confirm , my guess is you’ve done it up too tight. However if it’s not come loose then I doubt you’ve stripped the threads. It’s likely bearings in either the freehub or the main hub. Probably freehub if there’s no play in the wheel and it’s just the cassette that is loose.
What's the hub? I had a rattle on by gravel bike and was very surprised to find that it was the axle coming loose (hunt rear hub with changeable axle that threads together.)
Can't comment on the rattling cassette, but I've had problems with aluminium lock rings (Sunrace) that keep spinning while appearing to engage freehub threads, but come loose over time. I now bin them from new, replacing them with old steel Shimano lock rings (you can buy them on eBay or from SJS if you don't have any). The freehub threads were never damaged by this, but then I also run steel freehubs as standard.
thanks all... will catch up with him later and see how its going.
potential: misaligned sprocket(s), freehub bearings, alloy lockring (never even occurred to me)
Are you sure that the last couple of sprockets are properly engaged on the freehub? It's possible to get one of them out of true by a couple of notches, it'll look right but one of them will be out of whack...
I do this every time, even though I know I'm going to do it and check. Every. Single. Time