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I`ve got a 2011 Boarman team FS frame.
Its tapered.
I`ve got a headset that runs 1 1'8th straight steerer fork.
i need a headset that runs a tapered steerer as i`ve got new forks coming.
Apparently according to the bikeradar review it uses a 'semi integrated' headset.
i can use the top part of my existing headset no prob.
However - looking at Hopes guide i've no idea which lower headset i need. I'm presuming its standard E2? its not referred to as semi integrated?
maybe i`ll just have to look later and do some measureing. was kinda hoping to get a headset prior to fork delivery!
There's no guarantee Hope makes what you need- I'm not saying they don't but I had to use an alternative brand for my last new bike as Hope didn't produce the type I needed, and from memory (couple years ago now) it may have been semi integrated something or other
"Integral" seems to be Hope's word for "semi-integrated". I say this because the SHIS code starts with a 'ZS'. Good info here:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards#article-section-5
So, yes, an E2 should do it 🙂
But you only want the bottom half, right? So that would be an 'E'? The '2' refers to the top half....
see- why the hell is a simple bearing so bloody complicated/confusing.
someone needs to be shot, repeatedly, for this debacle.
I'm only looking at hope as they seem to have a nice diagram. I'll not buy one as i'm a cheapskate!
As a chartered engineer you'd think i'd be able to work this out...
What i really want is just a crown race but i recon the chances of me being able to work out what i need, and then find it available for sale is virtually nil.
same with sodding wheels and adaptors... grrr...
FSa do a good one;
[url= http://www.moredirt.com/stories/FSA-Orbit-Z--Orbit-IS-2-Coloured-Headsets/1806/ ]http://www.moredirt.com/stories/FSA-Orbit-Z--Orbit-IS-2-Coloured-Headsets/1806/[/url]
Hope's range is limited
Cane Creek have managed to sort me out for a few really wacky ones I have had to fit recently - they do everything under the sun I would say
This is how I understand it. (Feel free to correct if any of this is wrong folks)
If it's semi integrated you need a ZS (Zero Stack) lower cup. You then need to know the internal diameter of your headtube which corresponds to the first number after the ZS. IIRC the number after the slash refers to the internal diameter of the bearing. In your case it'll probably be 40 if you're after a tapered lower.
So you'll be looking for something like a ZS49/40 (replacing 49 with the internal diameter of your headtube at the lower opening.
HTH.
There is no cup in my frame. The bearing sits directly in it.
If that's the case then the headset is integrated not semi-integrated.
That fsa pic above is great apart from you can't read the headset specs or dimensions.... I need the top left one.
I think the better pdf versions out there if you Google - these were just the first I foubd
How do you know that the bearing sits directly in the frame?
If your headtube is semi integrated it will have a 44mm internal diameter top and bottom when the headset is removed. You say that the bearing is set straight into the headtube but alot of people don't realise there is actually a small cup pressed into the headtube like the bottom cup on this headset -[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-comp-press-fit-semi-integrated-headset/rp-prod39377 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-comp-press-fit-semi-integrated-headset/rp-prod39377[/url] so it would be worth checking that this is the case with yours also.
If the headtube is 44mm top and bottom you may find that you won't be able to fit a tapered steerer unless the headtube has been machined out to allow a 44mm headset with an external cup to be pressed in to the bottom of the headtube as a standard semi integrated headset cannot be used with a 1.5" steerer.
For a 44mm internal diameter headtube with a tapered steerer you will need type H which is EC44/40 (External cup 40mm / 40mm steerer)
If your headset is 55mm or 56mm then Type G or Type E will work but you need to make sure you get the right one. (ZS55 or ZS56)
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-pick-n-mix-headsets-bottom-cup/rp-prod70727 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-pick-n-mix-headsets-bottom-cup/rp-prod70727[/url]
This headset will fit a tapered headtube with 44mm top and 56mm bottom with a tapered steerer
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-headset-44-56iits-sealed/rp-prod130954 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-headset-44-56iits-sealed/rp-prod130954[/url]
If you post up the internal diameter of the headtube I will be able to tell you what you need but the measurement needs to be as close to exact as possible with there are so many different sizes of headset available.
scrap that - 2010 ain't tapered
OP, you said that your frame has a tapered headtube but also the same as the one one in the top left of the FSA piccie, which is straight- not tapered 😉
Do what I did, take it to your LBS and get them to source and fit one
Sorry top left of the integrated section. My bad!
I know the bearings sit in the frame as the bearings come out in yer hand when you take the headline stack apart and you can see there is no cup.
Measuring I get 56od and 51-52 internal. Crappy tape not vernier caliper.
The bottom bearing appears threadlocked into frame. And has an id of 40. Give or take a bit.
I think the £13 brand X one on crc is what I need.
I think i`m getting the hang of this. i think Evans (of all places) have some shimano Pro lower headsets/ and even a crown race.
Crown race you say? There was a thread about that I think.
Ok so 52mm internal is integrated rather than semi integrated which has caused the confusion but the way you have described it definitely does sound like you will need to use the bottom half of the headset from:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-headset-integrated-tapered-steerer/rp-prod130924
or
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fire-eye-iris-fit-1-5-is42-52-headset/rp-prod119698
Bearing for a 52mm ID headtube / tapered steerer.
Set the bearing in, fit the crown race to your new fork and then reassemble everything and it should work. (Top half of your existing headset shouldn't need changed)

