I'm realitively inexperienced as a mechanic and am embarking on my second build (well a frame transplant). I've tended to worry a bit about setting the correct preload when tensioning a headset, the main concern being ovalising the headtube if things are too loose. So, put my mind at rest, presumably a headset loose enough to cause ovalisation is going to be obvious with juddering during riding or braking. If nothing's detectable is it ok (I can live with a bit of premature wear in the bearings but an ovalised headtube seems pretty terminal)?
On my first build I used a Cane Creek S2 headset, once I'd dialled out any detectable play I'd nip in a little more just to be sure, it seems to work and I've never needed to replace the cartridges. With the new build I'm using a Cane Creek S3 and it seems much more sensitive to preload than the S2 did, in fact it seems to take rather less preload to remove play than the S2 did and steering do stiffen slightly (although not bind) if I nip it up even a little extra. The S2 also seemed more progressive when it came to removing play, with the S3 play seems to vanish more quickly with less force, preload seem worryingly little (although the compression ring seems finer than the S2).
So am I worrying too much and can I just assume that if I can't feel any play I'm safe to go?
Do the top bolt finger tight whilst holding the front brake rocking it back and forth. Compression bolt is always nipped and you crank it up on the stem, Normally around 5Nm.
Easiest way to align the bars btw is by resting a ruler across both fork legs and looking down through the bars and getting the ruler and the handlebars parallel.
If you've done all that and you're still not sure, take it to your LBS and it'll cost you a few quid for piece of mind.
Keep it real.
Ellis.
Cheers, I think that I'm just a little suprised about how sensitive the S3 seems to preloading compared to the S2 (both removing play and steering stiffening up). I'll probably get it checked out at the LBS the first time just to be sure. I'd imagine that it's have to be obviously loose to actually damage the headtube.
Yes, It'd have to have MAJOR play and you'd have to do a down hill course or something for it to ovalise.
Hope it gets sorted
Keep it real.
Ellis.