Last time i replaced headset stuff it was before before intergrated headsets became the norm, so now i need new bearings i'm a bit lost.
I have a kona jake the snake 2011 cross bike with intergrated tapered headset.
I'm i right in thinking that the bottom option of the link is what i need as a replacement and these are fairly standard and will fit the existing crown race and frame?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=62162
A quick google finds the kona spec which suggests your headset is a FSA No. 57-B.
http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=jake_the_snake
Googling that brings up the FSA spec
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/290/Orbit-15-ZS
which says you need 36/45 rather than 45/45 as per your link to ritchey bearings.
beyond that, I can't find anywhere with bearings for tapered headtubes in that size!
further searching... using part numbers from the FSA spec sheet
eg. lower bearing
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/140/160_6740/fsa-mr110-073-rs-15-acb-36-x-45-bearing.html
thanks for that CP
so opened it up last night expecting to find a sealed cartridge bearing with numbers printed on the side helping me choose a likely replacement.
to my suprise i discovered an open loose bearing type!!
Also the surface within the frame that the bearing move on are pitted.
Surely this most be a semi intergrated headset and i sure be able to replace the cups, as if not the frame is finished?
Looks like a trip to a bike shop.
i hate the mine field that has been created in headset.
Convential press/Bash in cups makes more sense.
weird. did you buy the bike new? If they are indeed loose bearings, then it sounds like a bodge to me! Any pics?
Can you see a cup in the frame?
aye brand new.
i wonder if the number 57 is sealed bearings and the 57-B is the OEM loose bearing crap type.
It does look like the cup is a serperate piece to the actual frame.
Eg, the material in the headtube is rough until right at the very top just under the bearing race there is a ring of shiney machined metal.
Seems to fit totally flush within the head tube so no where to jam a rod and bash out other than on the backside of the bearing race it's self.
I've have a couple of phone style pics but no idea how to upload from computer?
email em to me and I'll take a look - address in my profile.
