Forum menu
I have followed the instructions in the Wheelpro book to get this far:
[img] 
[/img]
But comparing the detail of the lacing pattern it only matches one of my other three wheels.
In the wheel I have just buit both sets of spokes lying inside the spoke flanges are pointing towards the front of the bike whilst the spokes on the outside of the flanges are pointing towards the back of the bike.
Of my comparison wheels (none of which I built):
1. The same
2. Both sides different (inside spokes face backwards, outside spokes face forwards)
3. Drive side is the same but on the NDS the inside spokes face back and the the outside spokes forward
If I haven't explained it well then I can take a photo of the other wheels but they are a bit mucky with cassettes on so not as clear.
Maybe there is no 'right' way just different ways.
Thanks
Can't quite see but I think I spotted an error. Are you going 3 cross? If so I think I can see a combo of 2 and 3 cross but pic doesn't show properly
Difficult to see from the pic (a full side-on view would be best) but it looks as though it's 3x except the drive side pulling spoke that goes down to the rim logo in the bottom right of the picture is 2x.
So no, it looks like something's wrong.
Yes it is 3X build but I am pretty sure that is correct (no 2X faults) it is the leading/trailing inside/outside thing I am wondering about.
I will post another side on picture in a moment
Here is a picture of either side:
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
Sorry turns out it is a difficult thing to take a photo of!
Don't worry about the inside or outside of the flange. How you have them is fine. If the chain hits the wheel, it wont get "drawn in". Having both sides symmetrical (as you have), looks best imo.
Agree with worries re. 2x or 3x though.
The first cross is very early and hidden by the spoke flange I think.
But happy to be corrected.
Wheelbuilding is a funny one, I have built about 6 wheels now all in regular use but never to it often enough to be certain of the details!
In the first picture, theres a driveside spoke that is only 2 cross
The whole inside/outside thing doesn't matter at all, tho I think it looks best symmetric.
If it's just and inside/outside question, there are four ways to do it. The important thing is that they all work.
Shimano have an opinion on which is best and I build that way simply because who am I to disagree with Shimano but more often than not, most people build to the method they were taught or from the first wheel they copy.
" Onzadog. IIRC King advise to build on their hubs differently to Shimano. Having the driveside trailing spokes inboard stops the spokes getting near the derailleur under hard pedalling. Having them outboard helps stopping the chain from getting jammed if it drops behind the cassette. It's better to have the trailing non drive side spokes (and front wheel spokes) in board to counter-act braking forces.
Or to put it another way, it's all a load of bollards, spouted by pro-wheel builders to try and convince punters that throwing a few pieces of metal together is a art. Tensioning the wheel properly and adjusting the rear derailleur solves any rear wheel issues.
I'd seen the King thinking but came to the conclusion that it's easy to make top end kit but the Shimano guys make stuff that works at all price points. However, like we've both said, it makes sack all difference really.
OK, I am reassured on the inside/outside question and it explains why none of the other variants have collapsed and killed me.
Here is that first picture again and I think this is the spoke people are picking out as 2X:
[img] 
[/img]
The red spoke is crossed with the green, yellow and orange in that order away from the flange.
If that is OK then I can proceed to the tensioning stage!
There's all sorts of stuff written about having the spoke doing the work (leading on rear wheels, trailing on front) inboard of the flange and the one doing the supporting outside. Then you look at wheels on other bikes and Shimano's own instructions and find that very few do it this way.
The only thing I can't see from your pic is the valve hole. There are 8 parallel pairs of spokes if you lace 3 cross on a 32 hole rim. The valve hole should be in the centre of a parallel pair to make access to the valve easier.
simplest way to check for three cross being done properly - each pair of spokes that actually touch at the cross should have 4 spoke holes between them (2 for two cross, none of 1 cross)
Shedfull - can confirm a nice parallel pairing making room for a pump at the valve hole
clubber - checked that and all OK
Looks like it is fine and ready to get on with the tensioning stage.
I would choose to have the pull spokes on the drive side on the inside of the flange but this is equally fine.
If you had screwed up the lacing you would have found out before this stage - ie not enough holes / one spoke too long or too short!!
It's difficult to screw it up and still get tension!!