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I am getting a bit confused setting up my grip2 damper. It's got high speed reboud, low speed reboud, high speed compression and low speed compression.
I started off with the high speed rebound, and turned it up high, but if high speed rebound is high then it will slow the fork down, so high high makes it low right?? But if high high is low, what is the low doing?? If I put high high and low low will low undo the high? or does high high turn high into low. In the end I turned high low and started with low, but if I turn low high and high is low, won't everything go through high so low won't do anything?? And I've not even started with compression. I mean if I turn high and low compression high, then I won't need so much high and low rebound as the fork won't go so far. And what if I have low high on compression, it'll go slow and I'll rarely use high??? So maybe I have middle low and then just fiddle with high, but if high is high I'm back to square one with the whole high turning into low shenanigans?? The whole thing is baffling. In the end I just shoved it back in the garage as my wife said I was getting too stressed and needed to calm down.
But if high high is low, what is the low doing?? If I put high high and low low will low undo the high? or does high high turn high into low.
A classic case of suspension adjuster madness!
You need a weeks bed rest then briefly read up on what those adjusters do (don't go down a rabbit hole as this can lead to full on adjuster insanity which few recover from) then go and repeat a few trails making adjustments to one setting at a time until you understand it and arrive at an overall setting you are happy with.
Good luck. I wish you well on your recovery 😂
Start with all damping off and go from there. I'd concentrate on rebound first and not worry about compression to much if it feels ok
This is hilarious. I'm not even gonna try to follow your OP 😀
Just dial off the HSC, have a click or three of LSC.
Stick the rebounds in the middle then adjust faster or slower til the front wheel is tracking well as you go round rough corners (for HSR) and til it returns at the same speed as the rear when you push it down by hand (LSR).
If you don't understand the difference between high and low speed adjustments - basically high covers how it reacts to bumps you're hitting, while low covers how it reacts to rider weight.
I do prefer a single rebound adjuster myself TBH.
I've ended up with all the damping on my grip 2 turned to the lowest possible, with the exception of LSC, which is about 3-4 clicks in from fastest.
Settings for my 36 grip 2
Fox 36. With lezen pump aiming for 24-32mm sag
Delivered with 77psi, 31mm sag
High speed rebound 5
Low speed rebound 5
High speed compression 5
Low speed compression 15
Round 1
89psi 26mm sag. Reading 95psi after 30 Min at calverton taken to 91
HSR 3
LSR 4
HSC 5
LSC 10
Round 2 one spacer taken out. Never more than .140mm travel.
88pis=25mm sag. Read 94 after 3 runs at calvo
- 5psi, reading 89 psi, so 84psi cold?
All from open
First and always..set the air pressure according to sag (aim 25-30%).
Then learn what each thing does - just remember, 'speed' is the SHAFT speed..not how fast you ride your bike.
On a decent fork/shock, the two settings of HIGH and LOW should be independant of each other - thus changing one shouldn't affect the other.
Compression - how much resistance there is to the fork compressing. FULL compression = fully locked out.
- High speed = when the shaft is moving fast; big hits, drop offs etc.
- Low speed - flow and pump from normal riding
If there's not enough compression damping, the fork will compress too easily and you'll always bottom out. Not enough, and you won't use all the fork travel.
Rebound - how much resistance there is to the fork extending. The interesting thing about rebound and the speed at which it can extend, is that it depends on the fork COMPRESSION.. the following will explain
- High speed rebound/extension can ONLY occur if the fork has been thoroughly compressed... so high speed rebound/extension only occurs after a big hig basically.
- Low speed rebound/extension occurs after smaller compressions..trail flow etc etc
If there's not enough rebound damping (i,e it extends too fast), it'll be like a boingy pogo stick, and can buck you off. Too much rebound damping and the fork won't extend fast enough to be ready for the 'next hit', and you'll be incrementally packing down the fork until it's go no more travel to use!
Turning any dial towards + will INCREASE the damping..i.e slow down the process.
Once you figure out how a shock works you can get it set up sweet!
DrP
DrP has the key that the OP needs to understand.
'Speed' refers to shaft speed - how fast the damper is moving through its travel.
Low Speed = your body movements, the compression that comes from G outs and when your in berms.
High Speed = sharp impacts, your fork and wheel compressing quickly as you hit rocks, steps etc.
Read up on - then go out and do, some bracketed testing.
You have a top end damper with top end adjustments. You NEED to dedicate some proper time to testing and evaluation to get the best from it.
And take a sharpie and write your settings on your bike.
With the low and high speed rebound it actually feels like high speed is the return speed when the fork has been fully compressed with a big hit. Then low speed rebound is the return speed from smaller compressions like trail bumps and flow.
So its virtually 2 different return speeds depending on how much travel the fork has had to provide for that hit.
If it's a Fox fork and it feels bad, when was it manufactured and have you had it serviced by a reputable company.
Fox has had terrible problems with quality control ~ covid times and have been sending out forks with dry lowers and reduced negative spring volumes due to the grease being applied in large dollups in the wrong places.
Bracketing is only worth doing if you're going to do it properly, otherwise just go with the recommended settings after setting sag IMV.
I fiddled with everything, but then had a total reset & went to factory suggested settings from the manual.
& it was pretty much spot on.
It might surprise some people, but they don't just make that shit up.
Edit: That Lost Co video is very good though.
Forget about sag apart from the initial set up of your fork. set it to 25% and go from there. You don't have to measure it everytime you change air pressure. I would leave your compression all open on that damper. increasing it just increases the harshness of the fork. You can get a basic LSC setting from doing a kerb test.
Have you tried the Fox recommended settings?
Have you tried the Fox recommended settings?
Good place to start, but remember that Fox measure the clicks the correct way, ie from fully closed.
Unlike everyone above 🙂
Unlike everyone above
Ahem. Not everyone!
Yes - suspension adjustments always start at fully closed/slowest. Then work your way out. Cars, bikes, moto... thats how you do it.
yeah i tried for fox settings but they felt way too slow. I'm used to rockshox though. Think I should have got the grip damper!
In what way did they feel too slow?
I spent nearly two years trying set up my 38s. After having them in bits and a couple of lower leg services I eventually decided to get an ebike shim stack tune, seeing as they are fitted on my ebike anyway and the warranty was about to run out.
It turned out that the grip 2 damper was borked and I never was going to set them up properly.
New damper under warranty. Still no ebike tune and back to square one trying to set the bloody things up 🤔
I just have a set of new 36 grip2 and the rebound and compression don't seem to to much? On an older grip 2 34 and some performance 34s high compression is near lock out and slow rebound is like treacle. On the new 36s (2021) there is some difference from fully open to closed but not much. This is all garage test, not been for an actual ride yet!
Is it just there is a narrower window of adjustment and more subtle differences?
buy a shockwiz
ride it on a ride variety of terrain
find the settings that work- settings for uplift days may be different from trail centre -
write them down
sell the shockwiz for what you bought it
Not a bad idea. Just trying to figure out if my fork is actually working first!