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Hi
I'm in the process of mounting my bombtrack Hook EXTc to an elite Zumo I have. I had used it successfully with previous bike, a cotic escapade with sora 9 spd.
Current bike has 11spd SRAM Rival with an 11-42 cassette.
When I put the cassette on the trainer with no spacer (as it's 11spd) it's not possible to do up the lockring tight enough to compress the cassette together properly and there is play between each cog and shifting just doesnt play ball.
Ive found an alloy cassette/ freehub spacer in my toolbox and put that on. Great, able now to get the cassette compressed and tightened up but it looks like the chain-line is too far outboard so that if i shift to the smallest cog there's a risk of the chain fouling the seat-stay. luckily, the bottom limit screw is preventing this so far as obvs the cassette is slightly outboard of where it would sit on the wheel.
Anyone had this with turbo's. Would it help if i just bought a cheapish 11spd shimano cassette and a new chain and saved those for use solely on the trainer? That would obvs also help reduce hassle swapping bike between trainer and outdoors.
What cassette would be sensible based on the fact ive got a 40 tooth front single ring and fancied starting with the pebble workout on swift then following on to the gravel grinder. I'm pretty sure the shimano cassette will work fine with the sram shifters?
Current bike has 11spd SRAM Rival with an 11-42 cassette.
Needs a 1.85mm spacer as 11spd HG spline mtb cassettes are 10spd width
simon
Are you saying the rival 1 x 11spd cassette - a PG1130 I think, is a std 10 spd width so needs a spacer 1.85mm spacer? Is that because the rival cassette is an mtb cassette?
There's no spacer on the freehub body on the bike it came on - a Hook EXT-c with HUNT adventure-sport wheelset.
It needs a spacer. Comparing wheel hub to turbo often misleading.
Don't forget there is a risk of fouling at the spokes (flywheel) end if the cassette is now further outboard than on the wheel used to set limit screws. Check that.
Edit: don't be a slave to standards with the turbo freehub. They are sometimes a dark art. So maybe try a skinnier spacer (the 1mm one in the turbo box?). If the cassette tightens with that it'll work... and you will have bought the space to stop fretting about chain line.
I’ll measure the spacer I’ve used. It may be the 1mm one!
Similar experience with that model cassette on a Direto X (they probably have the same freehub). I'm using one of the supplied spacers, and there's no lateral play in the cassette but the larger three cogs have a small amount of rotational play. Might try it with a second spacer this evening and see whether that improves things.
i think i could do with a slightly narrower spacer. i'll see what I have got in the toolbox!
I the spacer i used was a narrow alu spacer. way less than 1mm. The prob seems to be as the cassette is a 3 large cogs as one and then 8 single cogs threaded directly onto the freehub the lockring thred is too deep and binds on the inside of the freehub on the zumo. its only very slightly too deep but as the cassette is not one piece all the cogs move in relation to each other, both side to side and in the direction of travel. a 0.5mm washer under the lockring would be a better option than on the other end of the freehub. Is that a thing?
Would a decent one piece cassette do it?