[Closed] Click, click, click - pressfit on every trip

Went chasing noises on my Cannondale . Change BB30 bearings on a daily basis. Then changed the cranks to 24mm with adaptors, which then I didnt have metal bearing race to metal axle making noise, which seemed to cure it. Is yours direct contact or a plastic sleeve ?
In the end after continual clicking, I junked the BB30 and went FSA adaptor to HT shimano outboard bearings. Ran well, but click returned and in the end was a frame crack. But the BB changes did cure it at the time. Under load, the bearing can be under more stress than in a stand or even feeling smooth with a finger spin. Even a new Ultegra BB I have is clicking and swopped out for a Dura Ace one and cant remember where I bought the Ultegra to send it back sadly.It can be a total nightmare with BB's

Don’t rule out headset. Grime/dry bearings in headset can reverberate through frame and sounds exactly like bb creak. I know !! Maybe not but worth a check

I went through this once changing everything and then a mate said its your rear axle, no it can't be, it's no where near it! Removed axle, greased it, replaced it and fixed it. Everything else I'd replaced wasnt required.

So, now the first thing I check is the rear axle and hub.

I have a stumpjumper with the same hope bb and it did come loose and made a noise. I quick clean and tighten fixed it.

Most stupid one I had was a lace on the cycling shoe pinging the frame once every pedal revolution.

devonboy I know that feeling on autumn I could find the ticking noise on my Kona. Turned out I wore the same jacket with the zip at near enough the same level. It was the zip pull knocking on the camelback strap.

Thanks all. The Hope design is metal on metal. Maybe that's the cause even though everything is well greased up.

I'll check through the other bits when I get some shed time, which will hopefully be over the weekend. 🙂

I used the hope screw in bb, no clicks at all after that, and i was using bog standard slx ht2 cranks.
I won’t buy a bike again with pressfit, its crap.

I had an annoying noise once, turned out to be too much paint an the inside of the rear drop outs, was in the old days of qr skewers.

I wouldn't rule out the pedals, put your rattlers on to check👍

Pedals - I had an incessant click on my CX bike (which also has a Pressfit BB) and I took it apart, cleaned and regreased everything, new bearings and it was still there - in the end I changed pedals and it was silent!

Rear hub is a good call too, any dryness around the axle or the QR/bolts will sound similar.

And also the mention for lower headset bearings.

If all else fails, get one of the Wheels Manufacturing Pressfit BB shells that screws together in the middle. That eliminated the constant creaking and regular need for new bearings on my Specialized.

Pressfit requires very tight manufacturing tolerances to not click. I’d swap out for one of the screw together bottom bottom brackets. Done it with all of mine once the clicking gets too much.

Pedal bushing last time for me. Swapped pedals and no clicking since.

I’d also make sure cassettes are clean with a layer of grease on freehub. If the cassette is not one piece then clean this and lightly lube. I had issues on two press fit BB bikes - turned out it was the Dura ace cassette and ethirteen one

I've had cracking/clicking noises solved on a couple of bikes by taking the seat post out and cleaning it. Had a micro speck of grit get down the seat tube and cause the same noise a few times!

+1 for axle. Took my bike to the lbs when I couldn’t cure a clicking noise. I’d tried everything you have, plus headset, seatpost and pedals

Mechanic rode it round the car park and tightened the rear axle 1/4 turn. Creak gone. Very embarrassed but equally very relieved it was sorted!

Cheers all. Need to write all these down and work my way through with my Allen keys. 🙂

Dropout bolts/mech hanger bolts could be the culprit too.

Grease on metal to metal interface?
I've no idea what hope say, but that seems odd if you don't want it to move.

The FSA PF to threaded adapter I have came with a tube of locktight to use when fitting it.

Mine turned out to be the stem

And on this note

Most stupid one I had was a lace on the cycling shoe pinging the frame once every pedal revolution.

The excess cable on the FD had me scratching my head for a while, as it caught my shoe with every pedal stroke

Start with the cheap/ easy to do "usual suspects" then work on to the bigger/more expensive options.

Sometimes a spray of water over a potential area will silence the noise for a minute or so, then it'll come back. You can sometimes find the problem this way.👍

do you know it's not the CSU: Crown Steerer Union (?) on your forks?

i have my first press fit frame and ive a feeling it might be starting ti grumble...

Rather than just randomly replacing things, go find where it's coming from.

It's obviously appearing under load, so isolate everything else and push/pull one component at a time.

Things like, hold the bike up by the grip, and press down with your foot on the pedal, pushing into the side of the frame.

Or hold the seattube and push and pull the wheel.

Undo bolts, listen for a click as they release.

You wanna recreate the click in a closed and quiet environment.

Pulling things apart is just a lot of effort and guesswork.

Once you start to listen for clicks, creaks or knocks, you'll get an ear for what is metal on metal, or bearings, or plastic on metal and you'll start to feel where things are coming from.

It's a skill well worth honing!

+1 for axle. Took my bike to the lbs when I couldn’t cure a clicking noise. I’d tried everything you have, plus headset, seatpost and pedals

Mechanic rode it round the car park and tightened the rear axle 1/4 turn. Creak gone. Very embarrassed but equally very relieved it was sorted!

Interesting discovery today. On the last ride I had a bit of creaking from the chainrings (I thought). Decided a good clean and lube would fix it. No time this morning so just splashed on some lube. Still the same. Stop for a wee later on and the back wheel made a very strange metallic clonk as I picked up the bike from the verge and plonked it down on the tarmac. Check the wheel and it wobbled! Checked axle, not fully in. Tried to tighten it, wouldn't tighten. So got thumb and finger on the "top hat" spacer twixt wheel and frame, wiggled it and sure enough not tight up against the wheel. Tightened it, axle screwed in fully, creaking stopped. Felt and sounded like a new bike. Possible death event avoided.

I take home 2 learnings.
1. If I remove the wheel for cleaning I will make a point of checking the top hat is tight and the axle fully home when I put the wheel back on.
2. Check the axles are fully home before setting off for a ride.

Quick update...

I've been through tried and checked various things from this thread including a real focus on Rickon's approach.

What that didn't do was find the issue but it did rule out a number of the helpful suggestions above, decided that the BB needed to come out for a proper look.

Having drifted the BB out I found some imperfections in the BB shell possibly associated with a previous removal but some of them far enough in that they might have been causing a bit of movement/pressure on the BB cups (and I'm sure what I'm hearing is metal/metal).

I've put in one of those plastic SRAM things and halfway through putting the old 30mm axled drivetrain back together. Fingers crossed. If it's not that then the freehub is my next candidate.

Fingers crossed mate.

Undoubtedly one of the most absolutely First World problems there are but incredibly annoying.lol

It spoils a ride for me in fact... Yet im ok with my Hope hubs!😀

Recently had a bike with a ticking sound every crank revolution, turned out the direct mount chainring had loosened off enough to move slightly. Found this after I'd wasted weeks trying the bike with a different rear wheel, greasing every pivot and looking suspiciously at the press fit BB.

Also once had a frame where it was the top tube to seat tube join. No crack in the weld but just enough movement where the tubes touched to make a clicking sound. Very annoying as there was nothing that could be done about it really. Replaced a perfectly good dropper in the search for this one.

I’ve had many press fit BB noise problems on a new bike. It was definitely the BB as I replaced the stock BB like for like and it was fine for a month. Then decided to replace the stock BB with the hope press fit one that pushes into the shell then the cups thread together.

Took it out for a ride after and it continued to creak which was utter demoralising as it had cost me £90. But after about an hour of riding, it stopped and hasn’t creaked since which I find really odd.

I haven’t got anything new to suggest to check, other than I feel your pain.