Anyone ridden the Mojo Nicolai yet?

Some really nice builds going on here.

It would be a lie to say I’m not looking at these and thinking I’d love to try a G16. Sadly I’m worried my riding style is not compatible, I hang off the back of the bike a lot so struggle to weight the front, my Mondraker Dune and I did not get on at all. I’ll see if Jedican help me on that front though!

Sharkattack, you need a hope 'htt188' tool . Not expensive. I too was caught out by this. I thought maybe the tool was big and did not fit into the crank box, but as you will see it fits in perfect.
Anyway it's a nice crank and bb 🙂

It is a mildly frustrating thing that Hope don't include it with their crankset really as you can only use the BB with the Hope.

I think the Glory looks a tad steep too! Perhaps 63 😆

Wife was out on the NSL on Friday with AirMaidens at Chicksands. Amazing change in her confidence on the NSL. She said Katy Kurd was showing a lot of interest in it...

Just let me know if I'm boring anyone with the daily updates 😉 But I can only work on it in short stints (plus I'm getting pretty excited about it!)

[img] [/img]
Click here for a big pic-[url= ]LINK[/url]

I found the BB tool. I expected that we'd have one at work but it was hidden in a place where I never would have looked. So that's sorted.

I love how you can access the chainguide bolts through the chainring and easily drop spacers in and out. It would be a major ball ache to fit and remove that crank arm multiple times in a day. It's another level of faff compared to Shimano but it's so satisfyingly robust and chunky.

The DMR Vaults I bought a year ago because they were super cheap just happen to match the frame almost exactly. My tyres are now fully airtight. I'd cocked the tape right up first attempt. Not the job to do in a hurry. I went for my favourite tyres but there's so much mud clearance that it looks like I have the wrong size wheels in. I'll experiment with bigger rubber when these are worn out.

Annoyingly, it looks like a bike but I still can't sit on it. I'm undecided on a saddle and I'm waiting for a mate to produce a bar and stem. I've got some red E4's to go on then it's done.

I also got a very in depth tuning guide from Paul at Mojo. What adjustments do what and what to change and when according to feeling, conditions etc.. First ride will probably be Grenoside where I can do lots of short, repetitive runs and get it dialled in.

Even I’m excited with these daily updates!

Chainline, I messaged the Geometron Facebook page earlier but I had spoken to one of the guys at the Tweedlove demo day who said they might be able to sort me out with a G16 without a shock. Do you know if they would do this? Thanks

Are you able to share Paul’s tuning guide Sharkattack? I’ve barely altered mine from the original settings but would be good to know.

This is the last email I got from Paul. Obviously it's specific to what they've done for me but you might get something from it. I know the bike is designed to be progressive anyway but I asked them to make it firm enough for a lively ride. I like jumps and drops and I want a bike that pops rather than wallows.

I also explained that I love DH but have reluctantly learned to pedal because I don't live in Whistler and I plan to do uplift days and summers in the Alps etc.

SAG = the amount your suspension compresses under rider weight and riding gear.
LSC (Low Speed Compression) = is useful to control shock / fork performance under rider weight shifts, G-outs and other slow in-puts.
HSC (High Speed Compression) = control shock under bigger hits, landings, and square edged bumps.
LSR (Low Speed Rebound) = control under brake bumps, technical climbing and off-camber cornering, when extra traction is needed.
HSR (High Speed Rebound) = recover from bigger hits and square-edged bumps quickly enough to absorb consecutive hits.
Vol (Volume reducers) = clip on spacers that allow you to change the amount of mid stroke and bottom out resistance.

Base shock settings:
Sag – set sag and aim for 30 % when hovering in your attach position with all riding gear inc hydration pack etc. 30% is 19mm. Remember to cycle the shock through the first 25% of its travel around 10 or so times to equalise both chambers.
Vol – The shock is fitted with 2 of the orange volume spacers and the red spacer limiter. Video here if it helps

LSC – 18 clicks from fully closed / positive
HSC – 22 clicks from fully closed / positive
LSR – 13 clicks from fully closed / positive (Really dependant on footwear i.e. if riding flats try adding more damping to keep in contact with the pedals)
HSR – 15 clicks from fully closed / positive

Base fork settings as follows:
Air Pressure – set sag and aim for 20% sag when in attack position standing on pedals (DON'T hold the brakes) 20% = 34mm. you can run up to 48mm sag but you would need to address the air spring curve progression to achieve a workable balance.
Vol – x3 orange spacers fitted which might be overkill but give it a go. You can go down a volume reducer or two if you are not achieving full travel or it feels too harsh!
LSC – 19 clicks from fully closed / positive
HSC – 20 clicks from fully closed / positive
Reb – 13-15 clicks from fully closed / positive (dependant on air pressure and chassis balance)

** Important note - seal “bed-in” period is 30hrs **

Give us a shout once you have ridden it a few times and we can double check the settings based on your experiences.

Remember not to pull the brakes when setting sag and make sure to compress the bike a few times to break any chassis stiction.
After a ride just check to see how much travel you have used! Ideally with the suspension progression I would expect you to be able to use around 80% travel in a typical carpark test, (trying my hardest to bottom out the suspension without using the brakes to pitch my weight on the bike)

Thanks Sharkattack, shock set up is fairly similar but my fork settings are very different.

NoKills, they shouldn’t be apart from the volume spacers unless you’ve gone mad without talking to me!

Well updated thoughts on my extra long G13 after 4 days riding in wales

It only just fits in the car with one wheel off! I had thought of this, but thought it would be fine. Its a bit tight for any passenger in the front seat with the back seats down.

Bike park wales-
It only just fit on the uplift trailer. They had to use a third strap on the wheel to make it secure. Not something I had thought about before buying it. It felt very long and odd to start off with, after a few runs it was fine. I went round some of the corners I struggled with on a couple of other bikes with ease.

Mach 3 and the climax trail-
I wasn't sure what it would be like on a day out in the hills. On the Mach 3 trail it was absolutely fine. It is 0.7kg heavier than my previous bike (the only thing that has changed is the frame). After the Mach 3 trail I still had more than enough energy for the climax trail.

Penmachno
The bike was ace! The trail was ace, but loads was under water. I had more than enough confidence to hit the underwater bits and the bike soaked up some poor line choices.

Llandegla
This was all going swimmingly until I cased a jump on the black hard enough to put a thumb sized dent in to the rear rim. Not sure if it was over confidence, low tyre pressure or just pure lack of skill.

So
Bike park- good
trail centre- good
Natural big day out- good
Local trail- good

Last couple of things to try are a full DH uplift day and flat riding round Nottingham.

I'm a happy Bunny 🙂

Tall_martin how tall are you and what were you riding before for comparison?

Tall_Martin Just have half a mind on the rear travel when reviewing the full DH uplift day!

apart from that, excellent news.

I'm 6"4 with 36" inside leg.

Last year I've been on an orange Segment.

Chainline- i have a 200x57mm rear shock lying about and I trial fitted it before I bought the correct 190x50mm. The longer shock fitted with no problem.

Other than raising the bb and steepening the ha, would the longer shock do anything nasty? It will clearly change the handling and give 148mm travel at the back. There was clearance with the shock fully compressed

Tall martin, must have been you I saw on Saturday at Dyfi/CXlimachx I'm guessing? I was on the long G16. The answer to the car problem is clear, buy a van.

tall_martin check there is no binding at either end with the longer shock on the lever and downtube mount.

Other than that no the issue is the BB height and the HA.

In reality the BB on the G13 is slightly lower than my preference for a 29er irrespective of travel so I doubt that will cause an issue to you. worth measuring and reporting back I'd guess still sub 340mm which is fine. Personally I like a 350mm BB on a 29er giving the same BB drop as the 27.5. I think it helps with agility.

It wont cause any damage if there is no binding on the body.

I wouldn't like the HA any steeper. For me it already needs a -2 angleset for work best. If you also did that and added the shock then did the measurements that would be helpful..

Alternatively, the Mojo DHX-2 shock runs 190-57 to also give the 148mm rear travel, but clearly would incur some cost. You could offset that by lettint the two shocks you have now go. Curve works well with a coil.

steveh - yep! Nice to meet you. He bike fits with just me in the car, It will just have to have both wheels off with two people. While I'd like a van again, the car is staying for the foreseeable future 🙂

Chainline- There was no binding on the shock, I might give it a go in the future. As for a custom mojo shock, I'll stick with the s/h shocks I have for the moment. More riding less shopping 🙂

I'll give the bike a measure when I do, i used an app on my phone so the measurements would be good to show a change, not an absolute number. The app measured different angles on the two sides of a fork stanton last time I used it.

Cheers!

@blakec , how you getting on with that big g16 and that x2 , did you get it working for your weight . Im waiting for dpx2 and probably doing Pauls(mojo) head in .@chainline what size shock do I need for the g16 to run 29 wheel , I am going to have a look on ebay and see if I can get a cheap monarch till the dpx2 comes in

I fitted a -2 angle-set and the BB sits at 330mm off the floor to crank spindle. Personally I prefer how it rides with the lower BB/slacker head angle as find it easier to turn and find it carries speed better.

Also have a DHX2 arriving tomorrow so looking forward to trying the coli shock in there with the longer travel.

BIGMAN, I prefer the slacker angle but a higher BB BUT that is on a 155mm-175mm travel so likely the dynamic ride highlight similar to a 133mm setup.

BIGMAN, I prefer the slacker angle but a higher BB BUT that is on a 155mm-175mm travel so likely the dynamic ride highlight similar to a 133mm setup.

Chainline - Is there anything that can be done about the issue I have on all my geometrons of the rear mech cable walking along the swingarm and extending the loop at the rear mech end? All the slack heads that way until I notice as it gets tighter at the other end. I've tried cable ties etc but they've not helped.

Steveh - From new I was advised to put some of the tape linked below under the cable clamps around the headset and on the downtube to protect the frame. Given its a squishy rubber it certainly locks them in place and I never noticed them moving.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBBER-MASTIC-TAPE-2228-1X10FT-3M/dp/B001B1AP3O

Same as this stuff I believe but without the 'branding'...

http://marshguard.com/product/slapper-tape/

There is an extra longest G16 on eBay if there is anyone tempted by secondhand geometron goodness 🙂

Thanks gotama, will give that a go.

I've not had my cables migrate that I've noticed. I do secure it at the back of the swingarm with a elastic band or velcro, I dont use any tape normally but seems like a sensible idea.

I never posted any pics of the finished bike. Well here it is...
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

I've ridden it twice but nothing demanding yet. I had to test it on the boring stuff to see if it's going to be useful or if it's going to live in the garage like the DH bike. So it's been to Parkwood and Lady Cannings via the roads and bridleways of Sheffield. It zips along at least as easily as the bike it's replacing (Cotic Bfe) with exactly the same tyres on.

With the saddle up it puts you in a nice, assertive position for spinning along where the Bfe is more laid back in the seat tube and feels like it needs constant encouragement to keep the cruising speed up. It's had some brief Peak District style climbing where it crawls over rocks very satisfyingly. My hardtail would wheelspin and pop the front wheel up all over the place and this thing is totally planted.

I haven't ridden anything steep or rough yet, just the swooping berms of LC and Parkwood. No complaints but can't wait to ride something challenging. The experience is bizarre though. When you're standing up and hitting stuff fast it feels like a DH bike. It's just weird riding from home to the trails on a normal bike then dropping in on something that feels like the bike I used to take to the Alps.

So yeah, no regrets yet. I was worried that it would be too big and ridiculous on normal stuff like the routes I do on a weekend with the Mrs. but it was fine. Now I just need to see what it's like on steep and nasty stuff. Got a day at BPW booked in a few weeks and want to explore the Peak a bit more and find all these descents people keep talking about.

Well tasty

anyone read the long term reviews in MBR* or MBUK? Both have ended up trying to mellow the bike out a bit for "normal" riding?

MBR chap who had the largest grand rbded up saying he'd prob go down a size for use as his only bike and MBUK have fitted and angle set to steepen the head angle?

Both seem very different to what people have said on here, and Chainline is slacking things off a bit more rather than mellowing out the HA.

*Id like to publicly thank Large supermarket chains for allowing me to keep up with the MBR reviews while out shopping.

Lovely. A nice restrained use of Hope coloured parts 😀

Good to see someone so clearly prioritising bikes over home maintenance.

Excellent work Sharkattack.

😀

Here's that (really good) MBR piece BTW...
http://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/mojonicolai-geometron-29er-review

Lovely. A nice restrained use of Hope coloured parts

Thanks for noticing! It was a deliberate choice, I hate when people go all in on one colour.

Good to see someone so clearly prioritising bikes over home maintenance.

That's the attic at work. It's very atmospheric but not as dark and scary as the cellar.

anyone read the long term reviews in MBR* or MBUK? Both have ended up trying to mellow the bike out a bit for "normal" riding?

At this point, I don't want to mess with it. I deliberately went on a couple of boring, mostly flat rides and it was completely tolerable. I will try the high higher/steeper setting but nothing drastic yet.

That’s is a very good looking bike shark attack.

I’ve been taking the magazines reviews with a pinch of salt. As my experience had only been amazing with the Geometron geo.

To the point I’m looking at a new one and one for the girlfriend.

So on that note, if anyone is or knows some one interested my 2016 largest G16 frame in Black is going up for sale. Frame only, comes with two chainstays. One is 445mm and another 450mm (raw alloy) I also have some 27.5 mavic xl wheel set all good and tyre

Email paul.james.jefferyATgmail.com

Damn - had a buyer for that but he went and bough tnew end of last week

Longest that should be

Sharkattack, sorry forgot to add to my post that your bike is gorgeous mate!!! Looks so classy.

That MBR article doesn't get it. They talk about changing riding style to ride a Geometron, that's probably why it doesn't quite work for them. Look at the picture of the guy riding it, his arse is in the previous postcode to his bike and if they are riding the Geometron like that they have missed the point. The whole idea is you can stay in a neutral/attack position on this bike without having to throw silly uncomfortable shapes, unless of course that's just a silly magazine pose?

Perhaps the larger issue is the type of terrain and the relevant setup. Taking a Geometron and steepening it etc means it's pointless having one. To me, riding mainly here in the Lakes and Highlands on the Geometron in a tough as old boots build, it feels to me just like a normal bike that pedals really well and fits me properly. I don't recall having to change my riding style, I now have a bike that fits me properly so I don't have to ride like that bloke in the picture.

Diur, agreed they don't seem to fully "get it" the MBR link doesn't have the final few months or the conclusion which is a shame. But I did think the changes they were making seemed to be in contrast to what the bike is about.

Could it be, that they are actually to long in the reach Diur? Whyte have gone shorter with the G-170, the downhill bikes seem to be sticking with 50mm stems and shorter reaches.....

I say this, because the most I can push to in reach is around 480-490mm before the bike starts becoming unbalanced for the way I ride. With reach, I also find that it starts to become a game of diminishing returns, with slack bikes with a reach of around 460-480 feel just as stable at speed to me (at 6 foot) - as one with a 500+mm reach. I'd have to be motoring at MX speeds to really actually notice the extra length having a positive impact on my ride - and then a few dozen pages back, we were told that the downhill bikes were sticking with shorter reaches because of the steepness of the tracks they ride. Well, steep tracks are usually fast - there aren't many fast gentle tracks in the UK.

MBR aren't exactly the first people to have this experience with really long bikes...I'm tempted by a geometron, but as with MBR I'd probably size down to get more standover.

As with other forms of racing, eg MotoGP and F1. Personal tastes between equally fast riders varies quite dramatically - I see no reason why this is not the case with MTB. The Geometron and it's designers might be progressive and forward thinking, but that doesn't mean to say it will suit all riders. And likewise, those riders that it doesn't suit aren't necessarily slow.

That MBR article doesn't get it.

Given Roo rides with one of the Mojo/geometron demo guys as well as the likes of Olly Wilkins I think that may be a little unfair.

Perhaps the larger issue is the type of terrain and the relevant setup.

But I think you have nailed it with this. I can relate to a large part of that article, particularly given I also just ride in the Surrey Hills. I just don't think we have the terrain to fully make use of the bike in the low setting, there are too many gently sloping, smooth trails. My Tallboy feels much better suited as an all round bike than the G13 on our terrain. I can still hit all the drops, jumps and steeper trails but definitely feel more on the edge doing so. As I said earlier in this thread, if I lived in South Wales, Lakes, Alps, basically anywhere you can let these things go, then I would be keeping my G13. I'm still very tempted to keep it and use as it as an 'away day' bike although with two young kids those days are few and far between. It would be ideal for my trip with Riviera bike in a few weeks whereas I suspect the Tallboy will feel out of depth.

I do think he sums the bike up very well with....

'Pedal into a trail half heatedly on the G13 and not much goes on, you just cruise down the trail, but go full tilt, and the bike comes alive, you are rewarded for your efforts.'

I found I just don't have to get my weight back anywhere as much on the geometron as on other bikes I've ridden. It's not good or bad, just different 🙂

I read that bit in mbr

Pedal into a trail half heatedly on the G13 and not much goes on, you just cruise down the trail, but go full tilt, and the bike comes alive, you are rewarded for your efforts.'

And worried before I got it. Its been fine bimbling about for me. Just feels like a really nice bike 🙂

 

Also not my experience. If you have to steepen it you've got the wrong setup or are asking the wrong questions...

Thats not taking away from the fact it might not be someones preference. There will always be people that prefer something different for many different reasons, style, history, wanting to be on the edge etc etc. I think we all just have to accept that.

I've said it before, I consider myself a very average rider (though I understand how shit works..kinda like the coach with the talented athlete) but on flat 'boring' single track I can break traction into two wheel drifts into corners, thats fun for me.

I live in the midlands, at least Surry has 'hills'! but I can have loads of fun at Cannock which is essentially benign, or indeed on even mellower stuff in local woods. Staunton is great fun but not gnarly and often not steep.

I rode a Hightower in XL the other day and shit myself in Shropshire I was so over the front wheel, so it is personal opinion.

Be interesting to put someone on the NotSoLong, which has a 565mm reach (yes I've designed that for 4'9" to 5'5") who is say 5'10 as the 600mm ETT is not that short but the ST is 350mm, a 200mm dropper is easy for someone with a 30" inside leg....I rode it and it feels ok, longer ETT than my old Helius AM from 2010, similar reach to the hightower but much slacker.

So have a pretty short bike (though longer than Florent Payets Mondraker :lol:)with massive standover but all the angles of a GeoMetron and see how they get on with it. I guess challenge the geometry of 'normal' bikes with similar sizing. Like the lovechild of a freeride and 4x bike for trail riding 🙂 for normal sized peeps

Tom, have you actually ridden one at all yet? You're very specific about what works for you on the reach etc but I keep saying its the sum of the parts not individual elements, that includes how suspension works and affects dynamic ride height etc...

What did mojo do for the DHX2 to work, what size did the shock end up? did it raise the BB? Seat tube go steeper?

Chainline - Member

I rode a Hightower in XL the other day and shit myself in Shropshire I was so over the front wheel, so it is personal opinion.

At least it was an XL. I swapped bikes with a friend - he did a run on my Longest, I took his 26er Nukeproof Mega. It felt incredibly short - I think the Geometron kind of ruins you for shorter bikes.

Same chap took delivery of a new longest frame last week....

My one which chainline Phil custom built will be up for sale soon.......

Amazing bike!