[Closed] 240 hub, removing DS bearing.

I managed to break a Record 3" vice the last time I had to replace the DS bearings. It takes some serious force to undo them. After replacing the vice with a bigger one I mounted the tool in the vice and then strapped a length of timber to the wheel as a lever.

I tried to remove the drive ring from a 350 hub (not in a wheel) using some bolts screwed into the disc mount.. And those where clamped in a vice in a few different configurations.. Tried heating with a blowtorch.. And All manor of Other things..

Ended up writing the hub off when one of the bolts stripped and Deformed the mount itself!

I'd not go down that route again.. Unless you could maybe... make some sort of jig (bit like one of the boost conversion spacers.. Only thicker.. Solid.. And Made of steel) bolt all 6 bolts into that.. Then put that in an immovable vice and use an enormous lever on the tool..

As said, it takes a ridiculous amount of force.. And I'd go down the tool in a vice.. fully built wheel.. And an Enormous piece of timber strapped across it with a sacrificial old tyre (as I've seen in a few YouTube vids) if I where to attempt it again..

Though I'd be worried about what it was potentially doing to the spoke holes in the hub and Rim though given the force I used.. Combined with the fact I didn't manage to shift it and eventual hub deformation though!

I'm sure it's possible, but I wouldn't even try. The strength and leverage that the wheel gives you is really invaluable.

I managed to break a Record 3″ vice the last time I had to replace the DS bearings.

Not the only person to do that!

Ok, maybe not such a good idea. Will have a go at freeing the bearing off a little as its worn enough that it will make wheel building more difficult. Half tempted to try an impact driver on it.

Just build the wheel, then deal with the bearing?

That is one option. It's stiff enough to make building a pain though, however could do final true after changing. I'm going to soak in plus gas before attempting to remove which may well free the bearing a bit.

Little bit of heat as well, aluminium hub will expand more than the steel ratchet ring.

👍 going to change the seal anyway so heat is a go.

I was looking at going for DT hubs, rather than Hope for a change. Put me right off! Can change the bearings in a hope hub with a hammer and chisel!

I've seen two tools explode trying to remove one of those rings. Seems mad trying to remove it from a hub not built into a wheel.

🥺 must remember the safety glasses then.

Wouldn't even attempt to remove the ring without it being built into a wheel. Tool in the vice with the wheel as leverage and you should have no problem. Usual thread for loosening and tightening.

Sir HC
Subscriber

I was looking at going for DT hubs, rather than Hope for a change. Put me right off! Can change the bearings in a hope hub with a hammer and chisel!

Yeah but you have to do it much more often- the centre bearing in hte 240 (ie, the one that needs the special tool and the general embuggerment) needs changed once in a blue moon.

TBH a big part of why it's a bit feared, is that the official DT tool isn't very good- it's just got tool flats on it, so you can clamp it in a vice but that's about it. I've got a 3rd party one with a 1/2 inch drive and it makes everything so much easier- stick it on my 60cm bar and it's easy. Impact would probably do it even easier.

@northwind how do you stop wheel moving when using the breaker bar? The tool I ordered is one of the ones with a hex shape (didn't see the direct attachment ones damn).

Yeah but you have to do it much more often- the centre bearing in hte 240 (ie, the one that needs the special tool and the general embuggerment) needs changed once in a blue moon.

The bearing in the rear of my Pro4 havent been changed, they've done over 2000miles and 600,000ft of descending. The fronts have been replaced once.

I like the lightness and quietness of the DT240's.

I’ve got a 3rd party one with a 1/2 inch drive and it makes everything so much easier-

Got a link for the tool?

Try https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/232618276038

Takes quite some effort to hold the wheel in place, I'd say impossible if not built as a wheel. I've got one of the tools for sale. It's an unused Chinese copy, somehow I ordered 3 in error. £15 posted or feel free to borrow if in derbyshire

nixie
Subscriber

@northwind how do you stop wheel moving when using the breaker bar?

I just do it with a tyre on and jam it into whatever looks like a good jamming spot. There's a tall step at the back of the house which I think I used last time. The trick is just to find somewhere where the lever action of the breaker is also smashing the tyre into the ground and creating extra grip

Absolute 'mare undoing these. Broke a vice in the process. In the end I managed to get undone using an impact driver for stuck car wheel nuts

The should make a reverse set of ratchet rings so you could use the low gear and body weight to crack it off.

That would be a great idea, though I foresee snapped chains.

So you can do it. Be warned bodging ahead. We've recently moved and I can't find the vice. Also got nothing to attach it to anyway. What I do have is a 500kg pizza oven in a crate. So old rotor attached to hub, 6 screws through disc into crate.

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One breaker bar and a big jack handle.

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Bit of a lean (10s increasing pressure) on the jack handle and it moved. Job done.

I did try with my impact driver but despite going for long enough I was worried about it breaking no joy. I also put plus gas on the day before.

Applauds 🙂

Awesome!

well done! 🙂

What I do have is a 500kg pizza oven in a crate

Well that's pissed on everybody's Uuni or whatever they're called 😀 . Not quite so portable though

(did you bolt the tool though the axle or was the engagement good enough to just hope for the best?)

Good work Sir 👍
XXX have you still got the spare tool?
If so I'll take it can you msg me cheers.

No not portable at all. With the present advice not to congregate in numbers I'm not sure how it's going to get from the garage to the garden. I'm a fully signed up heavy oven fan boy though. You can keep you portability. That won't do a long cook on residual heat 😀 🍖.

I was going to bolt it up but the engagement felt good. I eased the pressure on and was keeping a close eye on the angles. I was most worried about the screws ripping out of the cheap pine crate!

Nicely done.

Thanks.

Incidentally if anyone reading this thread has spare rear end caps for a Shimano free hub (either qr or 10x135) I'd be interested in them. Got a 142x12 set to sell/swap.