Hello considering a new build and looking at a 1 x 10 zee set up with a 36 front ring, based on cost really, live in the hilly NW england nr dales/calerdale so will 1 x 10 be a suitable range........on a 3 x 9 I use all gearing, will i miss it?
Zee users any thoughts, do i need a chain guide? ALternatives?
I'm using a full guide but others have got away without one, depends how smooth a rider you are i guess. Also, i regret going 33t up front, going to look at putting a 30t ring on the perhaps
[i]Hello considering a new build and looking at a 1 x 10 zee set up with a 36 front ring, based on cost really, live in the hilly NW england nr dales/calerdale so will 1 x 10 be a suitable range........on a 3 x 9 I use all gearing, will i miss it?[/i]
Yep, you'll be walking a fair bit...
33t works fine in the hilly SW. 1000ft climbing/10miles on average.
Forces you to suck it up and get on with it.
b r ...................what feared 😥
I'm thinking of going from 3x9 (with a 32t cassette) to 1x10 (with 36) and I live on the flat plains of E Lancs. I'd been thinking about 34t on the front - is this excessively brave?
Andy
I ran 36t all last season and will again on this season's new bike. Was absolutely fine even out in Finale with 45min+ steep climbs.
You just need to get used to pushing a bigger gear and get stronger.
I've been running 1x9/10 on all my builds for 3 years. Bought a new bike recently that came with 2x10 and its brilliant! Not sure why I ever bothered to go to 1x10.. The gear range is better and with the new clutch mechs there isn't any more dropped chains. I realise that it's more weight, more expensive, more faf to replace and doesn't looked as radcore.
The gear range is better
In the best STW tradition, I've worked it out - 1x10 loses about one gear off the top and one off the bottom compared with 2x10, which in turn is about one off the top and one off the bottom less than 3x9, so there's not [i]that[/i] much in it.
Andy
I've got 32t plus zee in hilly basque country, so far no problems, but I am thinking of getting a 30t for summer proper when I'll be in the Pyrenees proper.
As for Chain guide, I'm using a bash and a N-gear jump stop - not dropped a chain yet.
How easy is it to get chainrings less than 32t? I thought they didn't fit on 104mm BCD cranks?
ratherbeintobago....i salute you sir......i think i can cope with losing that.........maybe............
There's been a few threads about companies doing them now.
For example.... http://wolftoothcomponents.com/
Aye, a lot of the options for <32t chainrings seem to involve having SRAM detachable spider cranks, though I'm sure I saw something about grinding down the chainring tabs (!)...
I've been running 1 x 10 36 to 36-11 xt with an e-13Lg1+ has been fine climbs are ok just don't expect to fly
just want to get there............have another bike for more rapidity, in theory 8)
Forgot to say bike is a 32lb SC Butcher wih 36's up front 😀
I ride a pitch taht must be 32lbish with coil lyriks in the Peak district. I ride 33 up front and 11-34 on the back (as i was too tight to buy an 11-36 cassette)
Some climbs are tough but not undoable
Riding HT 39 x 11 - 28 with Zee and Superstar XCR ST Single Ring Chainguide round Rivy - No probs 🙂
[i]In the best STW tradition, I've worked it out - 1x10 loses about one gear off the top and one off the bottom compared with 2x10, which in turn is about one off the top and one off the bottom less than 3x9, so there's not that much in it.[/i]
What are you comparing to, a 3x9 with a 34 cassette, or a 32?
Either way one gear higher than you need means a walk...
What are you comparing to, a 3x9 with a 34 cassette, or a 32?
To be clear, comparing 3x9 with a 32 cassette to 40/28 and a 36, to 34 and a 36.
22/36 is a very low gear; not sure I actually *need* one that low.
Use a 32 up front. I can't remember spinning out on 32/11 and have no idea why any trail bike going 1x10 would require a 36 up front unless you're a racing whippet.
based on what merlin are selling.............
[i]Shimano Zee 10 Speed Chainset, Ideal for any 1 x 10 set-up.
Supplied with a Shimano 36t Single Chainring and Shimano SM-BB51 Bottom Bracket.
[/i]
Anyone tried & been successful in running a 30t 104 chain ring up front. Looks like WTC do a compatible chainring but its a lot of money for just a chain ring or is it different cranks
I ride 32 up front and 11-36 cassette, if anything I'd rather have a smaller chainring but as above this isn't really possible with most chainsets. As glasgowdan says, I have never spun out, on or off road, and I'm not that slow I don't think.
Each to their own though, I do probably spin faster than some. I think that's a better technique than learning to push slower up hills though, look at track cyclists and that, they're well fast with their very high cadences
Im in Huddersfield and run 1 x 10 with a 30t and 12 to 36 cassette. Anyone can pedal this gearing around calderdale as I've been running it for a couple of years and have had pretty poor fitness. I'm moving up to 32t now as theyre cheaper and I'm fitter. I run mine (Andersen machine chainring) on xt m770 cranks, you have to file an angle on to the chainring tabs but it's v easy, you just need a file and a vice.
For reasons known only to FSA, my cranks (Afterburners) have a carbon spider. Don't really fancy filing that 😛
Spot on Cheers Steve! 1x10 is bob on but day in day out its hard going so been choosing the ht and barely riding the covert.
As an aside, those of you who've gone 1x10 - how much of the dreaded single-ring chainsuck do you get? Due to local filth, get two-ring suck lots between granny/middle, and occasionally between middle/big which is one of the reasons I'm thinking about changing.
I've spent winter avoiding the bottom two rings on my c456 (22/36 11/32), I am now riding my Mega with 1x10 32 11/36. I occasionally have to push where I may have previously made the climb. On today's ride the only time I pushed, all my 2x9 friends pushed too.
I like having less choice but I genuinely believe that the minuscule weight loss is only worth it if you need new gear anyway & you are strong and reasonably fit.
I'm in Brighouse by the way.
Never had any chain suck issues at all, I think a lot of that is down to chain wear TBH.
I was running 36/11-36 on a 140/160 AM bike - just doing same on new 180mm AM bike.
I've never had chain suck.
all depends on you...
Whats your cadence like? I can't do high speed spinning so don't really get on lower than a 36, like to have the 22/24 there to help. I did 1x9 with a 36 for about 18 months, I got much stronger but it just wasn't worth it as I also pushed a lot.
Pretty small front rings below.. 😯
[img] 
[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
Much smaller than a 32t up front and you start getting into the above territory I'd have thought.
I use a 32t up front and a 36t rear. If ever I need to push then chances are walking will be just as quick as any lower gearing than that..
I'm going from a 2x 9speed set up to a 1x 10spd set up. From the tables below taken from sheldon brown you can see I will lose my three lowest gears. However, the flip side is my bike will be a whole pound lighter for losing the shifter, mech, granny, bolts and bb mount roller guide. So swings and roundabouts. I'm doing it for simplicity sake. I reasoned that I am carrying around a pound of bike that I only ever use a few times a year. I believe the future is the XX1 system.
[img][url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8671591074_65f2111a40.jp g" target="_blank">
[img][url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8671591046_8c5935ce56.jp g" target="_blank">
I ride 1x10. 32 & 11-36.
If there's something so steep I'd need a smaller chainring, I think I'd struggle to keep the front wheel on the ground...or wheelie up the hill like a chav!
I recently built up my new Meta AM 1 by 9, to see how it was, before I bought the 10sp chainset, and I have now gone for the Zee 1 by 10, it will give me one lower gear, which will be nice, I also run a 36, and find that fine for climbs around nidderdale, middlesmoor - nought bank - knott etc. Lofthouse and peat lane are pretty horrific, but they're horrific climbs...
If I go biking in Molina or somewhere I will likely get a 32t chain ring as the long road climbs will need kill me on a 36
I've been 1*9 using a 36t chainring 36t cassette on the hardtail for about a year now and tbh, it's not very often I don't get up the climbs that I used to get up with the granny ring but these do take a bit more effort.
Recently gone 1*10 on the full sus with the Zee set up and have a 34t chainring, thinking being that the bike is about 5-6 pounds heavier so climbing will be more of a hassle. Its early days but so far so good. In fairness, my front mech was always full of crud anyway so seldom dropped the chain onto the granny ring and was pretty much ornamental.
I've just got back from a weekend's riding in Wales. I'm very unfit at the moment but found that 1x10 was pretty spot on. I've got a 34t front ring and 11-36 at the back on a hardtail 29er. There were a couple of times where I'd have probably used an easier gear if I'd had it but I didn't really need to and managed fine.
I'm running 1*10 on my Meta 5. I have a 35 tooth chainring with 36-11 cassette. I do struggle to keep the front down sometimes when the going gets steep, but on the whole I prefer it by far. Simpler, less maintenance (was never any good at indexing the front mech, and difficult to get to on the Metas) and I no longer drop chains.
1x10 here zee clutch plus 32t on front 11-36 rear with MRP AMG guide
Hurt for first few rides in Welsh hills, now I love it
jam bo - Member
33t works fine in the hilly SW.[b]1000ft climbing/10miles[/b] on average.
Forces you to suck it up and get on with it.
hmm, but a typical Calderdale yardstick is about [b]1000 METRES climbing and 1000 METRES descending /10 miles[/b].
A mate described it recently as "the one place where 1x10 will never catch on"
I'm running 1x10 in the Peak with a 33-tooth chainring and 11-36 and it's fine 99% of the time and 100% of it when I'm feeling 'ard. About once a week, when I can't be arsed, I'm tempted to go to a 32. Using a Surly stainless singlespeed ring and a cheap Superstar top chain guide thing on the BB and haven't had any chain-dropping problems.
In a way, it's pretty straightforward: if you're someone who rarely uses the granny or the big ring, then 1x10 makes sense. If you're forever spinning up hills in tiny gears then 1x10 is maybe not for you, or not round here anyway, certainly not with a 36 up front, but then you may well be much stronger than me. But if that's the case you probably won't be spinning up hills in the granny anyway...
intresting reading, use all the gears coz they are there and using a 34/35 lb coil Yeti 7, 1 x 10 with 32 looks the way to go, but lots to think on
If you can't manage your next ten rides without dropping into the granny ring then I wouldn't go 1x10.
However, I used to often use the granny ring - but when I forced myself to ignore it I quickly got used to pushing a bigger gear uphill and got better at technical climbing. Went 1x9 after a stint of granny ignorance and then 1x10 when that drivetrain was on its last legs. Was running 32t 11-36, not 33t 11-36. Think I'd struggle with 36t, might be able to handle 34t. Most cyclists can't spin fast enough and I like how running single ring develops that skill and results in you being in the wrong gear less often.