Replacing the lower bearing on my On One headset on my c456, I thought it would be easier to do if I knocked the cup out first.
Nope. Not possible to get cup out with a normal headset removal tool
Why?
Because the inside of the frame tube/insert has a flange (mmmmmmflange) which stops the tool contacting the inner top edge of the cup
Like this:

IMG_1060 by PeterPoddy, on Flickr

The green/yellow blob is the grease I used when I installed the cup, and marks the end of the headset. Above that is the flange.

I’m assuming sone sort of blind bearing puller?

PS – No rush, I got the old bearing out with the cup in situ and it’s all back together now, but I NEED to know how this is done 🙂

I clamped the cup in a vice and swung the frame around until it had dropped out enough to get the proper tool (big screwdriver) on the top of the cup and hammer it.

Vice jaws wrecked the cup, though 🙁

I’ll rephrase:

How is it done properly? 🙂

i’s give on one a call

I’d get my fingernail just above the cup, and give it a quick tug…..

DrP

Hammer and punch from the top, same procedure as every other headset cup i remove, tap it gently all the way round and make sure the cup comes out square to the headtube – simples!

How is it done properly?

This was the technique brant recommended…

Can you not get something on the protruding outside cup?

Hammer and punch from the top

Can’t be done! Read the OP!

This was the technique brant recommended…

I rest my case.

Is it butted against the shoulder in the tube? or is there a small space between the two? if there is i’d use a collet on a slide hammer

I think whatever you do is going to cause some damage to the headset. Is there much gap between the top of the headset and the flange?

What about a cold chisel with a beaten lip on the top? You’d need an extra hand or 2, though.

Is it butted against the shoulder in the tube?

yep, literally it’s like the headtube doesn’t have any join between it and the cup – it’s a smooth surface top to bottom to all intents and purposes. Pain in the butt.

It looks like there is a ridge where the lower bearing sits relative to the headset cup but if it’s machined parallel with the bearing then i guess not – my mistake, In that case i’d use a brass head pin punch (very small relatively soft head) and tap round the outside of the cup where it butts against the carbon headtube till it pops out but i guess not everyone has access to a workshop or equipment like i have lying around.

Or wrap the headset cup in an old innertube and place in a vice and twist gently.

if there is i’d use a collet on a slide hammer

That’s more like it. What’s one of those?

Anyone can bodge. I want to know what tool does this properly.

Is it a small? Sure I read something about this on here before- I wasn’t looking forward to removing mine but it turned out to be easy, on a medium.

I’d not be optimistic about getting it out by working on the outside with a punch- mine was pretty stubborn even wailing on it with the standard approach (old motorbike axle and coarse grade hammer)

TBF, I’d be having a nice chat with On One about destructive methods and free replacements

For this kind of job ive machined up a special punch with a dog leg in it, works every time.
Infact was doing a similar job today.

Maybe the frame isn’t designed to last any longer than the headset?

can you get a strap wrench on the cup ? and wiggle it out

Rubber jaws on the vice – take the cup out with the bearing in situ to stop the cup getting crushed. Job done – properly.

Once you’ve got the cup out (no idea on the front sorry!)
Would it be feasible to file the flange in two places opposite each other down to the ID of the head tube, wide enough so you could fit a punch to gently tap the cup out next time? Or are we talking sudden unexpected death when the HT explodes sending barbed carbon shards straight into your heart?

PP – SSC had a set in the sale but that is bigger than the collets in the set iirc. Car sized set maybe?

Grease….on carbon

Might be stuck for ever ;).

bigyinn – rubber sniffer

Once you’ve got the cup out (no idea on the front sorry!)
Would it be feasible to file the flange in two places opposite each other down to the ID of the head tube, wide enough so you could fit a punch to gently tap the cup out next time?

Could do. Personally, I’d just turn the cup down a little, it’s got a very deep insert.

Or alternatively, find out what On One are going to do about it.

Trail rat – ally inserts mate! 8)

Or alternatively, find out what On One are going to do about it.

Diddly squat I imagine like every other design issue that they have been made aware of

Maybe the frame isn’t designed to last any longer than the headset?

Here’s the rub: Bottom bearing has lasted 2 years. Not bad for me to be fair. I emailed them asking what size the bearing was so I could replace it
No answer
So I googled and apparently the always ignore this question. (Thread on another forum about it)
So they obviously want their customers to fork out an another header for £40
Another headset which is a pain I the arse to fit.

As luck would have it I do t take no for an answer and found out that Superstar bearings are the same. So I bought one of those and chanced it. They do fit.
This is the third major design flaw I’ve found in my 2 On One frames.
Yes, they’re cheap. This is why.

Next time I’ll get a Specialized. Their bikes are worth the money.

Maybe the frame isn’t designed to last any longer than the headset?

no way, the chain suck will never kill your frame in 6 rides

I knocked mine out in the standard way, there was just enough lip on the bearing seat to get into – with an old seatpost as the punch (bigger diameter) – yours looks the same. Once I’d moved it enough i switched to the outside. Put a slackset in, there’s loads of material around the 1 1/8th bearing!

How about using a 3 leg puller? Drop a suitably sized socket inside so it sits on the shoulder, then 3 leg bearing puller around the headset, and the centre pushy bit can push against the socket?

A bearing separator maybe?

an old seatpost as the punch (bigger diameter)

Cheers, I’ll keep that in mind. That’s probably the best bodge so far! 🙂

How about using a 3 leg puller

Also good 🙂

Pete, managed to drift mine out using an old chisel. There is a space above the bearing to get the headset out. If you want the bearing out, I just shoved a screwdriver behind the race in a couple of places and it pinged out. I bought a set of bearings from Mr Torchy off ebay. Weirdly his upper race has 2 seals rather than one and an open face in the on One ones. It will do until I swop for a Hope at some point.

I’ll keep that in mind. That’s probably the best bodge so far!

I was quite pleased with it myself, the shallow curvature was just enough to get purchase. It was a titec xwing so had a nice flat top for the mallet too! Rides nicer with a slackset…..

I have a very small on of these Bearing puller that sits up inside and gives just enough purchase on the yop edge of the race that that I can then tap the central spindle down thus knocking bearing race out.
Not 100% correct way to use it but it works.

Yes, they’re cheap. This is why.

It’s not.

Ah- Brant, did you not post here about a particular tool that made short work of this, not long after you returned to On One?

It’s not.

OK. Fix the problems properly and keep the price the same.

Tell me, how much R&D goes into and On One frame? (Are they ever tested long enough to need a new headset, for instance?) And why don’t On One reply to emails asking about bearing sizes?

PP, firstly thanks for the cranks! Just what I needed 🙂

Secondly, you need one of these: –

It’s what I use and is superb for removing all manner of difficult bike related stuck things.

A local bearing supplier got mine for me but I nicked the pic from here: –

Kukko Bearing Puller