Yeah Dually wrapped in an O.O Chunky Monkey so basically if you measure the space between the stays then minus 2x knats bollock hairs then you’ll have the width..
A couple of mine after the winter referb. All I’ve spent in a year on it is a new drivetrain! I thought I’d put on some new brakes & carbon bars on though.
Got my new Stooge frame through this week and built it up over the weekend with mainly bits from the shed / parts bin..
Currently running Chronicle / 2.4″ Mountain King on 27mm LB hookless rims but have a pair of their 38mm rims in the post to add a bit more width (and maybe switch to an Ardent on the rear).
32×22 singlespeed at the moment which may or may not stay depending on how I get on with it.. the simplicity of the whole set-up is great though!
This thread is not making it easier to not buy one. I “could” use my Sanderson Soloist as a donor bike, but not much off a 26″ bouncing front bike is going to transfer across. And I not able to do bargain basement builds. I too much of a tart and its false economy to buy it cheap and then upgrade it.
The seat post and the stem will fit though, so it wouldn’t be entirely new. 😉
Seems like a lot of folk are leaving a load of steer tube – on that premise I’ve got 35mm – feels good but it just looks wrong – wouldn’t have been better fo make the forks a touch taller ? Always preferred the feel of flat bars but I’m thinking trim some steer tube and get some riser bars .
This thread is not making it easier to not buy one. I “could” use my Sanderson Soloist as a donor bike, but not much off a 26″ bouncing front bike is going to transfer across. And I not able to do bargain basement builds. I too much of a tart and its false economy to buy it cheap and then upgrade it.
I got a 2013 Cube LTD off ebay for about £400. Gave me everything I needed except seatpost, headset and front derailleur. All XT, SLX and Magura bits. That’s you on the road for about £1000, with a frame and forx to sell.
I went to change the rear freewheel, 1 tooth difference. Chain way too lose or too tight. So, fitted new chain. Was slightly slacker than I’d normally run it, adjusted to the shortest run, so tried taking a chunk of links out of the chain and replacing them with the left over links from when I fitted the chain a few weeks back. It’s OK at the moment, but a week in the Brecons next week will tell. Call me old school, but track ends are the way forward (back)…….
You were trying to adjust chain tension by changing links in the chain?
There’s more than enough adjustment on that style of EBB the adjust the difference of one tooth on the rear.
Almost ‘finished’ mine now.. Thomson bar, stem and seat-post added. Just waiting for the 38mm LB rims – I reckon I’ll be able to squeeze a Panaracer Fat B Nimble on the back with those (plenty of room with the current 2.4 Ardents [MK2 frame]). What started as a budget build with stuff out of my spares pile as escalated somewhat..
They’re never going to be super-light if you go down the B+/29+ – mine is built up single-speed and weighs in at 12kg (26lbs) on the nose but ‘rides light’.
I know it’s a dumbass question, but, what sort of weight are you getting these built at. just for weight weenie-dom
this will be obvious i guess, but my first build came in at 26lbs, a set of dually’s and a knard later and the weight hit 30lbs. By comparison my 650 single speed weighs 25lbs
My Ti ^^ up there is bang on 25lb with my aldi luggage scales ..build Ti frame n fork , Ti post and bars thomson stem and clamp middleburn cranks 650b+ wheels (blunt rims hope hub front dmr rear trail blazer tyres tubeless) so either my scales are a bit out ..or Andy I want your steel frame please…..I must add that it did weigh 21.5lb with my crest/hope wheels and old steel fork…so its all in the wheels obviously. ..