Would be good if Single Track did a guard test.
They could fit various makes and a bike with none. Put the riders in those white paper overalls and see who is the cleanest.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/pMshYZ]IMG_4353[/url] by Alex Leigh, on Flickr
It does still tap the tyre on some landings, but it works brilliantly to keep arse/reverb/etc dry. It’s not terribly asthetically pleasing but what mudguard is. Way better than crud guards (and don’t have enough post to fit it on the Pyga anyway) and those muddy nutz ones didn’t seem to do much at all.
It’s still a bit flappy bit of plastic tho (albeit far stiffer than all other offerings I’ve tried), but if you fit it properly – and use the supplied helitape – and check the zip ties every so often, it’s as good as solution as any. Front is pretty good as well mainly keeping crap off the forks.
I finally cracked this year and fitted a mudguard. Really didn’t want to, but really glad I have.
tom – it’s a 29er one. I had to reshape it a bit by heating the end with the seat stay wings and spreading them apart a little but it was easily done and the guys at mughugger are happy for it to be done.
Just fitted a 29er mudhugger to my Fireline. In REALLY muddy conditions it worked admirably, keeping both my rear/back and reverb free from mud. I use a muckynutz fender bender on front, with a down tube guard too.
I stand by my original statement that it is rubbish. I would rather have a wet back that listen to 20 miles of grinding gears and howling brakes after the slightest sign of a puddle.
stand by my original statement that it is rubbish. I would rather have a wet back that listen to 20 miles of grinding gears and howling brakes after the slightest sign of a puddle.
I don’t know what fantasy trails you’re riding, but when I’m riding stuff like this, my gears and brakes will be grinding regardless of what mudguard I’m using
Piece of drinks can over caliper is an “enduro” riders trick
Old winter XCer trick too. Stops snow getting in, melting then re-freezing.
^ Best off-road guards I’ve seen in action. Triangulation spars keep them well fixed. Better than the wobbly, poorly-designed POS I have attached to my seatpost at the moment, will be adapting it or binning it before long.
No fantasy trails. I have been using that bike in all conditions since I built it in august. I have been on some rides over the Wyre Forest and Clent and conditions were as muddy in places as I have ever seen them. Of course the gears grind in the mud they are always going to but nothing like they did on yesterday’s ride and yesterday’s ride was nowhere near as muddy as the ride I did last week before I bought the guards. The brakes until yesterday’s ride been silent. One thing of note is that before fitting the rear mudguard, even after a very muddy ride the rear hub, brake and cassette would be pretty much spotless whereas the rest of the bike is covered in mud.
I guess where the water runs off a guard can make a difference to how the clean bike runs in the wet, the run-off of a mudhugger and a crud will be in different areas based on the shape, or depending on what angle you fit them at, what frame they fit to etc. Chains/chainrings get covered in spray off the front wheel anyway.
andysredmini – are you running 26 wheels in a 29er fork/frame? the guards look like they are sitting really high off the tyre. Not saying this is a factor, just looks different to how mine fit, front especially!
I think my rear one works really well. It keeps the crap off me. I’ve not noticed a difference in dirt of the drive train or brakes.
Wyre and Clent can be very muddy places to ride. The mud gets washed off more up in the Lakes with constant puddles and paths like streams…so not claggy like Clent and Wyre
They are 26inch wheels in a 26inch wheel frame but he forks are for 650b wheels. That position on the frame seemed about best as the seat stays widen out more than the top of the guard meaning the guard would sit inside the frame.
I think all the mud that did stick ended up making its way down into the back of my shoes.
Its not surprising your having issues with the front one then. For the rear id suggest moving it lower, use a hairdryer to form the mounts to follow the contours of your stays as the manufacturer suggests. Might help mud get ‘carried through’ rather than drip on the mech. Will prob still land on your feet tho 😆
How much for your Mudhuggers? You don’t like them, clearly. So hows about you carry on as you were and I’ll buy them off you? This way you can still stand by your original position and retain some dignity.
In 40+ years of off road biking, they’re the only ones Ive found to keep my backside and back clean and I’m wanting another set for Mrs Slack’s bike for her daily country lane and farm track commute.
Great bit of kit overpriced mind IMHO 🙂 [url=https://flic.kr/p/q8oGty]10801537_10152916110201474_4725748366010038452_n[/url] by Richard Munro, on Flickr
I’ll be keeping the front as it is but I’m thinking of modifying the rear one. I reckon I could cut about 200mm off the length and re-shape it and still achive a decent amount of protection.
I think you’d struggle to mount it securely enough with P-clips and also most motorcycles will have a seat/engine/etc blocking a lot of the rest of the wheel spray. I think the thing you illustrate is more about stopping spray going behind than up and forward?