Viewing 37 posts - 1 through 37 (of 37 total)
  • ok ok advice on No tubes kit set up…
  • bigbloke
    Free Member

    rims…xm317
    rim tape…yellow plasticky one factory fit
    kit…no tubes standard
    tyres….racing ralph evo (tubeless ready)

    having trouble inflating with co2 and track pump just get a whooshing sound out the side. tyre fits ok. rim strip fits ok. seems a bit tight near holer? havent opened up the hole to 3/8 as i dont have a drill bit that size. is that my issue?

    piedidiformaggio
    Free Member

    Not sure if the hole would make much difference, but have you tried inflating the tyres with tubes first and leaving for an hour so they get into proper shape?

    jota180
    Free Member

    I always find it helps to have the valve at the top and compress the tyre carcass with the heel of my hand with fingers wrapped between the spokes and valve for the initial inflation

    ocrider
    Full Member

    That and plenty of soapy around the tyre bead.

    Double check the valve-hole too.

    Shackleton
    Full Member

    If your stans kit is a big rubber strip then you don’t want the yellow rim tape as well. The rubber should cover up the spoke holes and be stuck down with double sided tape, the yellow plastic tape wont let it do this. All of the above comments also help, especially the tube one if you only remove one bead to get the tube out.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    The tyres used to be fitted for a few rides with tubes so should be ok….i think?

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Stuck down with tape????

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    for crying out loud. What a load of *&^%.

    Nothing is making this bloody tyre inflate, the bead seems to meet in the middleand not spread out.

    Feeling like i have wasted £40.

    njee20
    Free Member

    Tyre too loose by the sounds of it. Try going round the wheel ‘pulling’ the tyre bead to the edges, push down on the tyre around the valve too when you pump.

    If your stans kit is a big rubber strip then you don’t want the yellow rim tape as well. The rubber should cover up the spoke holes and be stuck down with double sided tape, the yellow plastic tape wont let it do this

    Not true, rubber strip just stretches round the rim, the kit includes the yellow tape.

    santac
    Free Member

    I done mine following the video on stans website , work fine doing it the way they say. I use non tubeless bobby nics

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    yes i am following the video off their site. several hours now , fed up and going to give up i reckon.

    wrecker
    Free Member

    LOADS of soapy water (strong mix); scrub it on
    Make sure the rim seat is free of dirt etc
    Make sure the valve is on the bottom as you stand the wheel
    Puuuuuump!

    Clobber
    Free Member

    New tyres? Leave em inflated with a tube in 50psi overnight then try again

    zippykona
    Full Member

    I was once like you , floundering in the pit of despair.
    Put tube in to seat one side. Tube out, valve in,core out. Neat fairy on bead. Attach air and off you go. Don’t use a pump, you need to shock the tyre into the rim.
    I’ve got fitment down from 2 weeks to 10 minutes.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    ok if i put a tube in where does the rubber rim strip go then and how do i put it back in without upsetting the bead again???

    traildog
    Free Member

    Lots of soapy water. Have you tried taking the valve core out. You have to get air into the tyre as quickly as you can. Also try pulling the bead of the tyre into the edge of the rim as suggested. Pay attention to near the valve hole, does the tyre fit ok in the gap there? Did you drill a larger hole?

    If all else fails, there will be too much gap between the rim hook and the rubber strip. Take the rubber off and put some more yellow tape around the rim. Then rubber strip back on and try again.

    Do you have the normal rim tape still on there?

    Don’t give up. My first setup did take a bit of swearing and working it all out. Removing the valve core was the biggest thing I did to make it easier.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Have removed valve core from the start.

    Normal rim tape still on.

    The no tubes rubber rim strip is sitting under the bead all the way round with a small gap, but near the valve is very tight fit.

    Yes now drilled a larger hole.

    Not sure how i can pull the bead to the edge?

    skiprat
    Free Member

    I did my back in about 10mins and then the front (done the next day) took over an hour!!

    Build up the layer of tape under the rim strip so the bead of the tyre is tight.I went tubeless with Joes and got a roll of tape to build it up with. S*~t loads of soapy water with lots of bubbles and put loads onto the rim/tyre bead. Valve at top, push tyre down at the top and bottom and then pumped like mad with a track pump. It gripped and went up. Let it stand for a few hours, valve core out and goo in. Pump, spin, bla bla bla.

    Worth it in the end.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    i’ve given up after losing my temper and nearly smashing a wheel apart. best left well alone for now i reckon, disappointed, cheesed off and feel a bit mugged off.

    scaled
    Free Member

    Perversely this thread is making me want to go tubeless…

    couldashouldawoulda
    Free Member

    Not sure how i can pull the bead to the edge?

    You should get the idea at about 2mins into this:

    zippykona
    Full Member

    They really offer few benefits, its just more socially acceptable than cutting your arms.

    jonba
    Free Member

    I had similar problems when I tried.

    What you are getting is air coming out round the bead rather than filling the tyre.

    Try a layer or two of electrical tape under the rubber strip to make the diameter larger. You want the tyre to be pretty tight to get on.

    Leave the wheel/tyre inflated with a tube overnight to give it some shape.

    Hold the tyre with the valve at the top. PAt the tyre all the way round on the tread. This squashes the tyre and pushes the bead outwards onto the rim giving a better seal. You might even need to pull the sidewalls out. Then hold the rim and gently push down on the tyre in this area with your thumb or fingers (which ever bit isn’t holding the rim. It sometimes helps to pus the valve up a tiny amount too.

    Plenty of soap, sod the water, get some neat washing up liquid on there to help seal.

    There is also a method involving a strap but I’ve never made that work.

    Final resurt is to try and find something to fill the central well of the rim (foam tape) to stop the tyre falling in. Essentially you are trying to get the tyre to seal against the rim. If you can do this you can use a track pump. If not you need to brute force it and just blast in a load of air, this is why removing the valve core or CO2 works.

    There is also a ghetto tubeless inflator on here made out of bottles…

    nixie
    Full Member

    bigbloke, posted this on your other thread. Works great and removes the frustration.

    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ghetto-tubeless-inflator-total-cost-9p

    spence
    Free Member

    Feeling like i have wasted £40.

    Sorry Hugh. Would have suggested you do it properly, not mess about with these half cocked methods ie UST rims and tyres. Worked every time for me over the last 10 years by just fitting the tyres and pumping up with a JoeBlow.

    traildog
    Free Member

    They really offer few benefits, its just more socially acceptable than cutting your arms.

    Where as I find them brilliant. Only ever had one disaster where a tyre didn’t seal and I suspect because I didn’t shake the sealant bottle enough (rushed it – which proves you can do the job quickly). I certainly would never go back to tubes. A much, much nicer ride and no punctures at low pressures.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Well managed to get 1 inflated onto the rim, all looked good, started to lose pressure very gradually through the sidewalls (i soaped them up more holes than a tea bag). Left them for an hour or so then tried putting sealant in, they would not re-inflate after hour or so of pumping. I have completely given up on the idea.

    Might start looking at tubeless specific wheels now.

    althepal
    Full Member

    I have Roval traverse ELs (rim tape fitted as new and apparently a tubeless friendly run) and had similar issues..
    Front went on no probs, back still proving a bit of a pain.
    Front RR went on and into the bead without too much trouble, rear took a bit of pulling and squashing but on ok after a fair bit of hard pumping but just would not hold air! Considered a ghetto inflater but managed in the end.
    Rear valve (non removable core/presta valve) leaks a bit now- tightened it as much as I dare with pliers, still a slight leak but the fluid seems to have sealed it!
    Anyways. It’s a pita but I’m just about converted now.

    tazzymtb
    Full Member

    *chuckles at stans numpties and their inability to make a simple system work*

    I have nothing positive to add, but your suffering amuses me. 😀

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    tazzy…….are you a user of the simple system that has stumped numptie me?

    althepal
    Full Member

    Think the first times always a hassle? Guess some tyres are just too porous for it to work maybes?
    Think the hassle will be worth it though I can’t speak for the wheels where the rim strip has to be built right up to get a seal.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    well got front on after applying a layer of electrical tape on rim first . eventually got it in flated with sealant now just sealing up those pesky tea bag sidewalls. fingers crossed its done.

    althepal
    Full Member

    Indeed!

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    just done the rear which didnt need extra tape. it seemed to all rely on where i strategically placed my hand onthe tyre as to whether it went up or not and nothing else!!??. anyhow rear is sealed so leaving tyres to bed in overnight then try it out near to car or home in case of failure……which i am half expecting. cheers for all the help guys.

    br
    Free Member

    You really need to follow all the rules, so go buy a new drill bit and ensure the rim-strip valve is properly seated – only drill the inner part of the rim though.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    br- i did get a proper drill bit and have opened up the hole.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Just to update…

    Took the bike out yesterday to try it on a few laps of the local xc trail. First lap the rear tyre lost a fair bit of pressure so i pumped it up and continued riding, it was fine after that. Front was ok from the start.

    So after all the hassle n grief it seems to be ok, rode very nicely.

Viewing 37 posts - 1 through 37 (of 37 total)

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