Morning all

I’m the proud owner of a new transition covert with a rp23 shock and I need some advice regarding the rear shock. I’m a big fella 6 ft 4 17 stone and iv read a few things that suggest I will not get the best out of the fox because of my size, which then brings in the CCDB would it work with a covert frame? Is it worth the dollar or would a fox coil compare?

Also anybody that’s got a covert, thoughts on how it rides handles and pictures of build would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Tom

Rides amazingly… just done the Trans Provence on mine. I’m 12 stone so have no idea about the CCDB. A mate who is closer to your weight runs one on an Five and loves it.

Here’s mine

Probably overbiked 90% of the time but pedals ell and is great when the going gets rocky!

Have you spoken to mojo, they will sell you a small volume aircan which improves the rp23 for the man of heft. was 20 ish quid. Also discussed here

2011 Covert and CCDB here. I’ve used the stock rp23 and a Monarch Plus RC3. I’m about 14 stone so heavyish I guess.

The RP23 was good, but seemed to bob the most of the three shocks, it also wasn’t the most plush of the three. The Monarch was an improvement on both points and seemed like a really great shock, but the allure of the CCDB awesomeness was too much to resist.

I bought the shock from tftuned, they were very helpful on the phone, the shock came set up for my weight and the frame (leverage ratio etc) with a printout of the settings used if I happen to mess them up too much.

The shock is a lot heavier than either of the air shocks I’ve used. I have had a DHX5 with a ti spring on other bikes and the steel spring on the CCDB definitely makes it feel heavier, so a titanium spring would be a nice upgrade, a 2.25 spring will work apparently – there are few weight options around in the correct 2″ stroke size.

At the moment I’m still using stock settings besides speeding up the low speed rebound slightly, it’s not as poppy as I’d like but one of the good things about the CCDB is that you have all the settings there if you want to change them.

Doesn’t half look the part, does it?

Have you spoken to mojo, they will sell you a small volume aircan which improves the rp23 for the man of heft. was 20 ish quid.

Or alternatively just take the HV can off and fit a shim made from an inner tube to reduce the air volume.

Only had a few rides on it but really pleased. I’m 13 stone and feel the RP23 is fine for me and can’t justify (afford) the CCDB. Just be careful about the choice of shock fitting the frame as there isn’t much clearance near the linkage plates – email transition to be sure, their customer services is excellent and very quick to respond.

Mine – it’s 2 years old now. Still love it. Never feels like it’s too much bike. It always wants to go faster, uphill and down. I’m not always up for that but it forgives slow and tired riding too. On paper it’s a little basic, the suspension may be dated, but it works well everywhere and it’s just great fun to ride.

Thinking about getting one myself. Is it worth waiting for the 2012 models with the 142×12 rear end or should I jump now and get a deal? Also, is the suspension considered dated?

I think the suspension could only be considered ‘dated’ because there are so many new designs coming out these days, things like the Yeti SB66 switch design and the whole host of dw-link and vpp frames around.

It depends what you want from the bike. It doesn’t mean one bike is better than another because a suspension design is newer or more complex (the Covert is essentially a single pivot which is rather straightforward from what I understand), if you like the feel of the bike then that’s all that should matter.

For me, I like how predictable the Covert feels, I used to ride an Enduro (FSR design) which was a lot harder to pop off lips and things in the trail etc, I think this has a lot to do with why people describe the Covert as being a fun trail bike.

With a good shock like the rp23, monarch, dhx, ccdb, you can dial things out like pedal bob, and get the shock working in a good host of situations. I get little suspension bob on my bike, but it is as plush as my Enduro ever was (with a coil rear end) and feels bottomless on big jumps and drops.

I would go for the 2012 if you can afford it, it would be nice to get a wheel with a maxle 142×12 for futureproofing, itlooks like a lot of new frames are taking on this new ‘standard’. I don’t like the graphics on the new ones although the blue is a really nice colour.

12mm rear end is the only thing I would like on my covert and will probably upgrade to a 10mm bolt through for next summer.

What are the new colours?

New colours are matt black, blue and white (see link)

http://forums.mtbr.com/transition-bikes/2012-covert-745007.html

Comments re: 142×12 back end are sensible. I’ll probably sit tight under the circumstances.

As far as dated suspension goes it’s a faux bar. I think the suspension on my Anthem or my Spitfire feels better, both for small bumps and climbing. But I mostly prefer to ride the Transition.
I actually prefer the Faux bar to FSR, bob is much better, the Transition climbs well with pro pedal off, my old Stumpjumper and Enduro really needed PP. The Transition climbs a little better with it on but it does well without.
So I guess when I say dated, read ‘not fashionable’. It’s very well sorted, which pretty much sums up the bike. And the bike is so much more than just suspension anyway!

What pressure are people using in their RP23 for the Covert? I seem to be about 210psi (Im 175lb) to get the right sag but in my head this seems very high.

What pressure are people using in their RP23 for the Covert?

I run mine right up near the 300 psi max as I weigh 290lbs and TBH compared to many other long travel bikes I have owned it works MUCH better and I don’t really notice any detrimental performance.

BOS are rating the Vip’r right upto 310lbs+ on the Covert FYI.

Fox RP’s will run up to 300psi, although depending on the rebound and compression settings the damper maybe a bit overwhelmed at higher pressure and be too quick or not provide enough resistance.
The air cans can be swapped to lower volumes to ‘ramp up’ more toward the end of the stroke and give a little more support in the mid stroke (running a std vol. can on my bike as a bit ‘fat’ atm)
These are available in standard and Kasima coating the other option is some air volume reduction shims which fit into the can, I’m able to supply any of these. 😀