I’m running 1×10 11-36 with a straitline silent guide and xtr rear mech.

I’m about to adjust the inner plate closer to the chainring for the second time as I’ve lost the chain twice, both times in high gears, last two small sprockets so the chain is at least tension.
there was evidently just enough room for the chain to get between the chainring and back plate but it was very tight, hard to put back on!

I cant help thinking though its bouncing up to be able to get off.

Any tips/experience/advice (Other than get something else) for setting it up. Its the requisite 5mm from the chainstay on the bottom guide and the chain is as tight as it can be in 32/36.

Other than that a clutch mech, but its an expensive option..

I don’t want to hear this lalalalalala 😕

I’ve only read good things about them which is why I bought one.

Hmmm, not good, perhaps I’ll sell mine unused rather than try it?

let me adjust it and test later.

Same as you messiah, only heard good things. went with the smallest ‘shim. going next one up…

Worn chainring? I lost my chain a couple of times whilst using an oldish 36t ring. Stuck a new 34t ring on and it worked fine for the 6 months I had it!

Chain too long?

What crank?

There are versions of that guide specifically for the Saint, because of a problem that if I remember right sounds exactly like yours.

new 32t Hope. 32 specific SG. could be orientation. I can’t tension the chain anymore in the rear 36 cog. BUT it should’nt be able to get between the backplate and ring! In theory if that’s the case it can’t come off even if it bounces.
It can potentially ‘slip” and result in more chain in front of the guide’s if pedalling back at the time of ‘lift’ or something.

I thought the chainline might not be spot on at the back when I had the 2.5mm spacers on. But the lower guide has got wear material so it is designed to rub.

I’ll re-adjust the backplate and heck the chainline. Then go thrash again…

I’ve always got the Hammerschmidt. Was tring to keep the weight down!

If I can’t get it to work. I might return it to CRC as not fit for purpose! However I assume that straitline tested it before putting it on sale! SO before that, I’ll adjust, maybe ask straitline too.

Its very quiet and the most protective out there and the likes of Jon Woodhouse seem to have had no issues 10spd so….

SO Messiah, don’t fit it yet, let me test it and give you the feedback.

SO Messiah, don’t fit it yet, let me test it and give you the feedback.

Cheersmin… hope it’s just a setup issue 🙄

I’m running a saint style guide with Hone cranks and 9spd with no problems at all. I reckon its a setup issue – worth persevering as they are awesome when running properly.

Never once dropped my chain since I set it up properly, not sure I can actually see how it’d even be possible! I did drop the chain once because i hadn’t put in enough spacers, once I had it’s been perfect since!

Chainline, how freewheeling is your rear hub? I have had an issue in the past when running the hammerschmidt and a huge rear tyre in that because the rear hub had high friction and didn’t freewheel well the chain would flap about below the chainstay and get grabbed by the tyre, sucked into the gap between stay and tyre, making a loud scary buzzy noise.

Just wondering if when freewheeling your chain is dangling loose and hence able to flap around and find the gap… I would have thought the SG would stop that from happeneing but if the freewheel is pretty sticky it might make it bad. Solution for me was to remove all the grease from my Hope Pro2 rear hub pawls and run it with oil instead – as a bonus this also makes it quieter 8)

Not sure how “sticky” brand new CK hubs are as I’ve never owned any.

I’m sure setting up the SG properly will fix it… the pics you posted on the other site look lush

Never dropped a chain on mine. The backplate is pretty tight up against the chain/chainring so there isn’t the space.

Sounds like a setup issue.

+1 for setup, I run mine with the bashring completely within the guides. doesn’t look like there’s anywhere near enough space for the chain to come off into the gap. Although mines the 32t specific one so there’s no room above/below the chainring either.

thisisnotaspoon and messiah..wot he said. Have re-adjusted mine now.

I paid careful attention to the orientation instruction, i.e. where it should be set to vertical. I had just set it 5mm from the swingarm thinking max tension was the right way to go. I was wrong, this was the cause of the top jump, the top guide was in the wrong place.

Secondly like thisisnotaspoon I have added the 2.5mm spaces and the gap is much tighter, but still runs fine in the lowest gear. The outer edge of the guides is now flush with the outer edge of the bashring.

Seems just fine and dandy now.

and everyone else. Ta, I am sure it was a setup issue. Can’t test it fully till Sunday, but a quick try to junk the chain test suggests it is now sorted.

Messiah, rear free hub is very free. They are my old CK hubs, not brand new ones.

Messiah, Full test this morning. Same route as before. No issues whatsoever, silent and fully retained. Definitely a setup problem on my part.

Just pay attention to the centreline instructions relative to the top guide. and space the back late so it overlaps the bash guard, not just a little.I would start with the 2.5mm spacers on a Nic with one 2.5mm spacer on the driveside BB.

The instructions say to space the backplate to the same distance to the chainring as the chainring is to the bashring. I think my mistake was to assume this meant the elastomer runner. It means the backplate, which when you do that makes the elastomer quite alot closer.

So all happy now 🙂

Cheersmin… I’ll not panic sell then 😀

Don’t sell – as CL it’s a setup issue.
Been running a SG for 2 years on my DH bike & a 32 tooth SG on my XC bike for 6 months.
Had problems with a worn chainring when I first set one up on my DH bike would suck an extra link through on rough ground. New ring problem sorted & not missed a beat in 2 years of DH riding. Get the side of the chain as close to the polymer guide as you can without rubbing in you’re largest sprocket & rotate the whole guide so the bottom of the backplate is approx 3 or 4mm from the rear chainstay – that is what worked for me. Obviously use the spaces that come with the guide – Hope brake spacing washers are also good for even more fine tuning.

Been running it for a good few miles now jumping etc. Still no problems. the inside of my chain does rub the polymer guide a little in my largest sprocket at the rear, but not much, certainly cant feel drag or hear noise. The polymer is there for that reason I figure.

The main thing I paid attention to was the diagram showing the vertical line passing just behind the front of the top guide. That stopped the chain jumping at the top.

Anyway, I’m a happy bunny now.