Because, having looked at the cassette and chainrings on my wife’s bike last week, and spotted some decidedly shark fin like teeth at both ends, I thought it must be time to change them. After all, it has been ridden at least once a week for 2 years, so let’s say 200hrs minimum. When the new bits arrived, holding them up together it appears that the old bits are identical to the new bits, so to the naked eye there does not appear to be any wear at all. This surprised me, even though she is only small and light. Is there anything I’ve missed or if it looks unworn compared to the new stuff is it fair to conclude that it is indeed unworn?

Just had exactly the same experience. Bought a new chain thinking the cassette was ok but had clunky changing with missed shifts. Bought a new cassette and all was roses despite there being little visual difference between old and new.

The parts will/must be worn to some degree, but’s it’s a range rather than a simple yes/no. It’s worn from the point of view that you’ll have a bad if you just put a new chain on. On the other hand, if it actually all still works then it’s fine.

Regardless, looking for worn teeth isn’t really a good way to decide when to replace things. Either:
1. Measure the chain and replace it when it gets to 0.5/0.75%. Keep doing that until a new chain skips and then replace the cassette and chain ring(s) as well.
2. Just let the whole lot wear together until it stops working adequately due to chain suck/skipping/whatever.

I only took it apart to try and remove the black paste she’d gathered due to inappropriate lubrication ( 😕 )

New BB and headset fitted. Umming and ahhing about whether to shove the new kit on or send it back.

Measure the chain and replace it when it gets to 0.5/0.75%

0.5%, sheesh, I’d be replacing my chain every week (And I don’t even get a ride in some weeks!)

I just checked the chain that used to be used on a singlespeed and now running single chainring on an Alfine, its at 3% wear and still running fine 😛 Loads of play in the bushings though so I suspect its looking rather like the ‘worn links’ section of this page… http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Right, chain wear is basically irrelevant if you don’t have derailleurs :slowclap:

Agreed (!) but still, replacing at 0.5%, normally its up for debate at 0.75 and generally agreed on at 1%

Personally I’ve found 1% too much if you don’t want a new chain to skip on the cassette.

That said, I gave up on that approach entirely a couple of years ago and just run everything into the ground now.

I just use the same chain until it starts to skip then replace the chain and cassette. If i replaced the chain at 0.5% wear I’d be spending more on chains before the cassette is worn than just replacing them both at the same time.

The Park chain wear tool is marked for 0.75 and 1% wear. Changing at 0.5% is unnecessarily soon in my opinion. I change after it has got to 0.75% and never have an issue with cassette wear.

I just tend to run mine until they stop working and then replace the cassette, chain and chain ring together (not always the chain ring) and seem to spend a lot less on drive trains than my friends who measure and replace their chains regularly. I have no more problems with shifting/slipping or breaking chains than they do either. I also only clean my chains with a damp cloth (maybe a bit of GT85 on a rag to wipe over the outside) to get rid of the visible dirt.
Never soaked the chain in degreaser as I was under the impression that the grease inside the chain when manufactured was better than most lubes.

Lube wise I only use FinishLine Wet (in winter) or whatever Juice Lube product I’m given by a friend who works for them.

Quiet and hassle free drive train that costs much less than my anal friends = happy rider.

Tom Kp