Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • I really am sorry, another house question – window lintels.
  • bearnecessities
    Full Member

    I really am sorry, but I don’t have anyone else impartial to ask!

    I need lintels to put DG in, not sure why, something to do with sagging soldiers and it’s required by FENSA now.

    I’m getting internals skimmed shortly, so would seem sensible to get lintels done now, even if I can’t afford the DG yet.

    Is it a massive job; anyone experience of rough costs?

    9 windows in total and would prefer the nice visible stone lintels, rather than hidden metal thingies, as at least I’d get a nice feature for my money

    (and if anyone knows a good, reasonable builder near Leeds/Bradford..)

    Thanks, as usual 😀

    mikey74
    Free Member

    These days most visible stone lintels are for decoration only, and you still have a metal lintel hidden inside.

    As the main load-bearing skin of blockwork is on the inside, to have a stone lintel that is visible on the outside and still picks up the load of the internal skin would result in an unacceptable cold bridge. Modern metal lintels are insulated to limit this effect.

    You could have two concrete lintels, one for each skin of masonry, but this could get expensive.

    Edit: Plus, if you have a soldier course above each window then the bricks will need supporting, which will be done using a cavity wall lintel, such as a Catnic Cougar.

    bearnecessities
    Full Member

    Thanks Mikey, that’s a lot more than I knew. I’ll knock the stone lintel idea on the head then. It is a Catnic Cougar that was mentioned by installer.

    Will it minimise damage to the internal plastering fit the Catnic’s now, or might I was well just suck it up and accept that a similar level of damage will be done when DG is fitted anyhow?

    Alu DG situated in wooden frames at the moment, if that makes any difference.

    Thanks.

    Squirrel
    Full Member

    Harder to do with the windows in. But if you do it with the windows out they probably won’t be able to get the new Windows in the same day. Are you really sure you need new lintels? Maybe get another opinion?

    mikey74
    Free Member

    I would certainly wait until the new lintels are in before you do the replastering: No point in doing the job twice.

    What DG frames are you looking at getting? TBH it shouldn’t make a lot of difference as you would plaster up to the existing window frame and then when the time comes, just put the new frame in in the same position. However, if you need to reposition the windows in the wall, in relation to the cavity, then you need to decide where to plaster up to.

    twistedpencil
    Full Member

    If there is no lintel in at the moment I’d probably hold off until replacing the window frames, it sounds like the current windows will be taking some load from the masonry, though most will be dispersed through arching over the window opening if the bonding is okay. However if you did do now and replastered / skimmed now then you’ll end up with a bit of cosmetic damage when you replace the windows, but nothing that a quick skim and lick of paint wouldn’t put right. I was amazed when we did this how little damaged occurred to most of the windows. The bay window replacement did crack the plasterwork more but I suspect there was a lot of movement due to the very poor nature of the windows we replaced.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    You could have two concrete lintels, one for each skin of masonry, but this could get expensive.

    Pre-stressed concrete lintels are very cheap – about £20 for a single doorway span.

    bearnecessities
    Full Member

    Are you really sure you need new lintels? Maybe get another opinion?

    No, very wet behind the ears with all of this to be honest. The soldiers are sagging though on current alu install, so no reason to disbelieve some support is needed for new windows.

    I would prefer the opinion of a proper builder though, rather than a DG installer.

    What DG frames are you looking at getting?

    Just ‘normal’ UPVC, class a (?) leaded windows, if that doesn’t sound too ignorant. 😳

    mikey74
    Free Member

    Pre-stressed concrete lintels are very cheap – about £20 for a single doorway span.

    True, although a decorative external lintel would probably be a bit more. I was mainly referring to the extra work required.

    Edit: I would get an opinion from a local, friendly Architect, structural engineer or Building Surveyor, rather than a builder

    twistedpencil
    Full Member

    I suspect that there is no external lintel, we had same issue, internal, original lintels were in place however. I think it was a normal detail for a timber window frame to act as self supporting. When these got replaced with dg, with less capable frames they didn’t get lintels installed in their external leafs (ves?). Easy way to check what type of lintel you have, drill upwards in the window reveal and see what ends up on the drill bit, hot and melted, metal lintel! Wood shavings, or a load of brick dust and mortar, no lintel 🙂

    bearnecessities
    Full Member

    Thanks Mikey, that’s useful to know – I need to get local building control out anyhow as making some other alterations; will they be qualified to advise?

    Easy way to check what type of lintel you have, drill upwards in the window reveal and see what ends up on the drill bit, hot and melted, metal lintel!

    Having only today removed the architrave from what was the bathroom, and quite a bit of wall falling out in the process, I can confirm there is only wood there…a bit damp at that 😥

    EDIT: Where that lovely white plastering is, sits a wooden plank.

    twistedpencil
    Full Member

    When I said wood shavings I meant solid wooden lintel 🙂 that looks like lath and plaster finish, I suspect if you investigate further there may be a wooden lintel in there. However if it’s damp then it’ll need replacing more than likely. What’s the pointing like on the external elevation? Rain may be getting driven into the cavity through gaps in the mortar.

    bearnecessities
    Full Member

    When I poked my finger through the gap, I found wood, but no idea whether it was a lintel or not as couldn’t judge thickness – I kind of hope so though. Pointing is a bit crappy, but it’s a job that’s way down the priority list at the moment.

    I’d like to remove that inner wooden ‘skin’ (or whatever the technical term is) and just have plaster, but this is why I need the help of a professional.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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