I know there have been a few threads on this but I’d appreciate some input on my particular problem with my garage.
My garage is build of single skin breeze blocks, two up and overs (locked shut), a single door and a roof made mainly of corrugated steel.
It’s waterproof but in the winter, it has major condensation – presumably from the slightly warmer air in the garage condensing water onto the cold roof overnight. It pretty much rains inside when it’s bad…
This isn’t doing my bikes or anything else in there much good.
So what’s the solution? I’ve read that ventilation will help but I can’t believe that that will solve it – it’s a large volume of air that’d going to hold water and it will always condense when in contact with the cold roof.
I’ve read about people insulating with Kingspan or similar – is that a good idea? It seems like it should be fairly simple and something I can do myself and not too expensive. If I did do that, should I leave an air gap or not? If I can leave a gap, it’ll make fitting much easier as I can fit the insulation between the main beams and then seal any gaps with expanding foam.
This is how the roof’s built:
basically, metal roof attached to thin beams (approx 2″ deep) with the main beams you see going L->R in the pic doing the structural bit.
Suggestions very welcome before the “rain” starts this winter
leave an air gap above any insulation and make sure air is able to circulate or the timbers will get damp and rot over time.
tbh, given you have power in there it’ll be cheaper to get a decent dehumidifier (not a condensing one – they don’t work well at low temperatures) and run it so it’s on continuous drain.
I did consider that wwaswas but surely unless it completely dessicates the place there’ll still be mosture in the air which will condense when the roof’s really cold. Not to mention that it’ll be expensive to run 24/7 I’d have thought.
kingspan to do that should cost around 100 quid and actually work
if you want to cheap out – expanded polystyrene will also work much cheaper.
you dont even have to expanding foam the gaps if you dont want to – you should be able to cut it to fit snugly. – echo what they said about the air gap though – leave a gap and ive left the end over the door open to let the air circulate but i get zero damp now – from previously having rusty tools even in the tool boxes 😮
a dehumidifier will not rectify the issue merely reduce it – unless it reduces the internal temperature as quick as the external temperature. – insulating the roof will work though.
we had to run one perminantly in an old house we rented – it cost 6 pounds a quarter to run. if you plan on staying in your house for a while its a no brainer and much less of a fire hazard.
Well whatever will do the job cheaply is what I want…
So it sounds like you’ve done what I’m talking about. Did you use kingspan or expanded foam? And what thickness? If there’s an air gap that’s open, won’t that mean that water will still condense?
will condense somewhere – the temp gradiant on the roof will still mean it will form just significantly less – id rather it was able to get out than be trapped up there rotting shit away. – when i say ive left a strip open – i mean 3 inches. just to let it breath.
i used 50mm kingspan sheets cut to size and wedged between the rafters with expanding foam in the gaps as you describe as its less delicate than expanded polystyrene – i store stuff up in my roof so often gets hit.
If you are going to leave an air gap it’s likely you’re just transferring a moisture and condensation problem to a position you can’t see it happening and where it’s going to take a lot longer to dry out. If you go down this route it needs to be ventilated well, but this is actually quite difficult with what is, in effect, a flat roof as there’s no benefit of the thermal stack effect you get with pitched roofs.
If you really want to do it properly, full fill the space with a vapour permeable insulation like rockwool or wood fibre board or similar (not kingspan as this holds on to the moisture keeping your timber structure nice and damp for as long as possible). Then underdraw that with an intelligent vapour barrier membrane (one that is more vapour open in the summer than winter) like Pro-Clima Intello and make sure this is as well sealed as possible. If any moisture gets into the construction (whatever you do you can’t eliminate this) it is released as soon as humidity levels drop and the temperature increases.
my dads garage has been done the same way i suggested for over 20 years…. went from being a cold shower if the door blew shut to nothing just by sticking up the kingspan.
doesnt seem to be rotting in anyway.
i guess its the old french quote that was on here last week – works in practice but not in theory 😉
if you fit Kingspan between the rafters you should really maintain a 50mm airgap over the top, and ventilate at eaves & ridge.
Packing it full of kingpsan (no air gap over) and fitting a vapour barrier below the insulation would be a reasonable (slightly bodged) method. Should prevent the warm, moist air meeting the cold, and vastly reduce the space available for it to condense in……
I wouldn’t recommend that for anything habitable, but for a garage it wouldn’t be too bad……..
Slight hijack….
For the soon to be pent roof type shed with a ply roof and shiplap walls could I get away with less than 50mm kingspan type insulation between the roof supports and should I use some sort of lining paper or membrane?