cynic-al - Member
TJ any ACTUAL expert could do a study and get an answer or work it out from existing data.
I don't accept that neither of us have any expertese.
If only mfrs pre-filled then we'd all be happy. A shame that no one makes bearings designed for mtbs.
My bearings are 100% pregreased in the factory, so I don't have to lift the seals, as for damaging seals when you remove them, on cheap bearings you will damage them, on top end bearings with the right tools and equipment you should be able to remove the seals and the old grease.
Onzadog - Member
Most bearings are designed to run at 1000s rpm. Normally, fitted internally or in a less abusive environment than a mountain bike. They fit an amount of grease that works with the expected speed and heat specific to that application.
Mountain bike bearings don't spin that fast so wouldn't suffer if more grease were used. Due to the slower speeds, tighter seals wouldn't hurt either. That's basically what the enduro (real world cycling) bearings do and they do seem to last well.
If that's what Kaesae is offering, then it should make a difference. Even better if they're supplied to him dry with lose seals so there's no seal lifting and cleaning required. Also helps that the Enduro ones are ABEC 5.
As above, my bearing range that I designed are MTB specific bearings, they have very tough seals designed for ride on lawnmowers, they will take high velocity impacts from dirt, water and grass. They will easily deal with jet washer blasts and being submerged in water. Basically they are a bearing that is designed for extreme conditions and are specific to MTB applications.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZxXrfupL_Y
As for lifting the seals and pregreasing, I would say that as long as you use a needle or a pin on the bearings inner race to leverage out the seal and don't damage it, you'll be fine.
I've analyzed thousands of bearings.
They fail for 3 reasons.
Firstly the bearing rusts internally then collapses.
Secondly the bearing fills with dirt and crap including rust and seizes.
Thirdly the bearing is of cheap quality and wares out quickly due it's looser tolerances and cheaper materials also the build quality is inferior.
The trick to buying bearings is getting ones that are cost effective but also bearings that are designed to be used outdoors and won't leave you changing them all the time.
The cost in maintenance time off sets any benefit to be had from savings in the actual bearings purchase.
