Does anyone do it?

I’ve been getting into suspension servicing recently. Rockshox seem to go out of their way to help you, great easy to follow guides on their website, professionally made how-to videos on YT.

Fox on the other hand, a bit more shady – they’ll show you a lower service on a fork or air can on a shock – but no further.

Can you actually home service a fox shock or does it require some magical potion that only TFT / Mojo et al possess?

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/Service/Rear_Shocks/605-00-071.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjRv_WU-u7TAhWDabwKHQMCCgUQFggbMAA&usg=AFQjCNGFI0X6Qz0ZrxuHitIGHp1rrg-jVQ&sig2=Ai2vzjXwxM3ykOTviW8JVQ
Type fox air can service into Google and get a bunch of easy to follow vids and link to the service pack.

No I get that, I completed an air can service yesterday, I mean a ‘full service’. My service kit came with a load of extra seals which I assume are used in the guts of the damper somewhere, and I assume there’s fluid in there somewhere.

Nope the shock has a nitrogen charge, can’t be serviced without a n2 cylinder and specialist tools.

Ah,

Thanks.

Google Dunning–Kruger for an explanation.

I get all that, BUT, is it really so important for a simple shock for it to have to be Nitrogen ?

Certainly it’s something in favour of RS shocks (along with all the extensive service manuals for ALL their products) that they advise Nitrogen but if not available then air is fine (after all it is 78% Nitrogen) and any risk of corrosion in something lubricated and coated entirely in oil with anodised components etc. must be pretty low. And the heat capacity of such a small volume ? Is it really going to matter.

So why not use air in a Fox shock – it’s good enough for RS.

(And I don’t know about the difficulty thing alluded to above but from my own experience if you can service a fork you can service a shock – well at least a RS one !)

If you can get it in, it works perfectly well. It always has done in my old DHX 5.0coil.

The DHX series is a good point to bring up. Fox were more than happy to let customers charge that with air. Iirc Avalanche say air is fine too

I get all that, BUT, is it really so important for a simple shock for it to have to be Nitrogen ?

Apparently, nitrogen is more stable volume wise than normal air when under temperature variation … so when the shock works hard and heats up, nitrogen will perform at a more consistent level … apparently.

Reality of difference in a small shock ? mheh … probably not that much.

Isn’t it likely to be oxygen free nitrogen?
I’m sure I have a nitrogen regulator somewhere.

air is 78% nitrogen..

In theory the shock will be a bit more sensitive to temperature changes.. And there could be moisture in there too so an increased risk of corrosion.. performance wise there wont be a massive amount in it.. and if you keep an eye on it it shouldn’t cause any problems corrosion wise..

I’ve done a few fox.shocks and it’s not that hard if you are an ok mechanic…

You need a few tools though.. And finding out ifp depths and pressures can be tricky sometimes as you say fox have been a bit tight lipped about it..

High pressure shock pump.. 400psi+
Hypodermic needle adapter.. (I got a racetech one from the USA..)
Allen key with a slot cut in it..
Some o ring cord to make new rubber pucks..

The Allen key with a slot cut in is to allow you to insert the needle through the Allen key and rubber puck.. Then you can tighten the ifp fill port cover with the needle in to reduce air loss when you pull the.needle out..

There are guides and advice out there but they take a bit of Google digging.. Mtbr is the best place..

Rockshox shocks as you say.. are much easier to work.on..

Edit.. found a picture that sort of shows the ifp pressuring..

I’ve replaced the puck setup with a schrader valve. Had to get the threads reduced to 5/16″ 24tpi to fit the shock.

(modified valve on left)