Hi all,

I run Hope disc brakes on my Kona JTS cx.

The inside of my left heel keeps clipping the caliper hose.

Can you get Shimano MTB pedals with longer axles?

I know Shimano make a +4mm road pedal….

Thanks in advance,

Alan.

Move the caliper hose ? Doesnt have to go in its mounts if its mounts are shite.

Move the caliper hose?

Not sure if this is possible.

Will add a pic tomorrow that should show my problem better.

Possibly a couple of pedal washers I’m thinking….

Is it not easier just to move your cleats on your shoes ?

Is it not easier just to move your cleats on your shoes?

Done this too.

I guess I could butcher the sole a bit to get it to move further over….

Is it the hose attachment on the caliper that’s causing the problem – because the routing appears to be otherwise well placed.

That’s a cable not a hose, you might able to fudge something with a noodle or similar to get a bit of clearance, might mess the brake action up a bit though:

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/383/2909059101/bbb—veepipe-v-brake-noodle-x2.html

Or just take the barrel adjuster off and see if that helps….

Is it the hose attachment on the caliper that’s causing the problem

Yes.

The hose on the standard calipers runs nicely in the middle of the chainstay.

On the Hope’s, the hose is attached to the caliper a good 10 – 15mm outboard.

I know what my solution would be 😆

BTW:

It’s Hope V Twin brakes I’ve got.

So cable to just under the stem, then hydraulic hose to the caliper.

I know what my solution would be

Same page, new bike time!!! 😀

I had this with Hayes cx experts on my last Croix De Fer and it meant I couldn’t wear my winter boots. It was a good excuse for a CDF30 with Shimano Hydraulics 😀

It’s quite possible that you may be able to swap the hose and bleed nipple positions, though you may also have to swap from a banjo to straight connector, or vice-versa.

I certainly don’t think you should be extending pedal axles or moving cleats and potentially causing physical issues to suit components choice. If you move your forefoot outwards there is a good chance that you heel will still track the current line anyway just with you foot at more of an angle and cause possible knee/ankle pain.

As above, you can swap the banjo and bleed nipple on the E4 calipers, so I would assume that you can do also this for the X2 calipers as well… and any other Hope calipers for that matter!

you can change the connector from straight to banjo – then angle the banjo inwards in that case.

It’s quite possible that you may be able to swap the hose and bleed nipple positions

When I first realised there was a clearance issue, I thought this.

After contacting Hope, they said it wasn’t possible….

I certainly don’t think you should be extending pedal axles or moving cleats and potentially causing physical issues to suit components choice. If you move your forefoot outwards there is a good chance that you heel will still track the current line anyway just with you foot at more of an angle and cause possible knee/ankle pain.

There’s enough variation in Q-factor/stance width (+10->30mm between road and MTB typically) between bike types that a few mm extra width is unlikely to make any difference unless you already have a pre-existing physical issue which makes you very sensitive to changes in stance width.

I do, but mines the other way, too narrow stance width causes me knee issues due to my massively bandy cowboy legs, so I run things as wide as I can.

On a road or CX bike a few extra mm will probably barely put you into the realms of normal MTB stance width, and certainly nowhere near the width required for fatbikes and wide BB’d DH bikes.

Not saying your point isn’t valid, just probably not that big of an issue for the majority of people.

If you were to take that approach then longer pedal axles is the preferable option over moving the cleat as moving the cleat can put odd loads into the sole/foot if it’s too offset, with longer axles the pedal at least remains more central under the foot. Longer BB axles can be an option but at the expense of chainline issues so again, back to longer axles as the better option. I tend to agree that it would be better to fix the hose issue if possible but this is a common result of chainstay mounting callipers.

Could you experiment with adjusting the angle of the cleats to bring your heels out a bit wider? Obviously if it effects your knees/ankles or hips in a negative way then move it back. Or try shoes with more heel clearance.

Space out your cranks a big wider at the BB if it won’t prove to detrimental to your chain line our biomechanics maybe?

I’ve always been a bit of a heels in rider, but then I ride with 5:10s as well which have chunky heels.

Just fit different brakes…

edit – wrong photo all together.

I run 15mm kneesavers on all my bikes. My knees & ankles are the happiest they have been in 20 years of riding. They only really work with pedals with spanner flats in the axles although if you’re canny, you can get them to work with XTR type axles as well.
Not had any issues bending axles or cranks & i’m 15st.
Specialized do some as well.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/kneesavers-pedal-extenders-prod14725/

You need to get your pedalling stance right though. Just moving the pedals further out to help you clear a hose may cause other issues.

A couple of options that won’t mean you need to modify anything.

Try a load of arch support (so you can feel it) in your shoes; may make your feet track straighter.

Some wedges under your heels may also make your feet track straighter.

You’ll have to experiment to find the right amount.

Why not angle the banjo up and back slightly and run the hose up the seatstay ?

45 degree banjo pointed upwards?

just seen the thing for you on eBay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Specialised-pedal-spacer-LEFT-HAND-ONLY-/121724795111?hash=item1c575cf8e7

Thanks, but Specialized had a recall on those, so best avoid.

Just gonna change the brakes, good excuse for somit shiny! 😀