Got a new door coming soon and while I’m sorting the garage lighting, I thought I might as well install the switch to operate the door.

I assume it runs off a retractive switch like a door bell button. If that’s the case, I imagine I could install as many buttons was I wanted (I’m only thinking two). It doesn’t need anything clever, use two wires into each terminal rather than just one. Once the circuit is closed, wherever that may be from, it will do its thing.

Have I missed anything? It’s a hormann that’s coming although I’d imagine they all work on the same principle.

The switches are wireless – the same as you get to put on your key fob. With my garage door I got two key-fob remotes and one wall plate that is also wireless – about the same size as a light switch, with a battery. The garage door motor itself operates off a normal 3 pin plug so you could ring in a socket close to where the motor is to be positioned if you wanted to do something up front. Mines not a Hormann but the same motor as Hormann use so I imagine yours will be the same.

Last one I had used wireless remotes but also had a hardwired doorbell switch to open or close it. The advantage to hardwired buttons is no batteries to go flat, but more importantly, don’t get “lost” when the wife puts it in the fridge or the bottom of her handbag.

Not sure if you can hardwire them in, I never asked or looked. Since I don’t put a car in the garage I’ve just stuck one key fob to the wall inside the garage and the wall plate one to the wall inside the house, the second key fob lives in our spare key drawer as a spare. Takes a few seconds to change the battery so no big issue if they run out – and you can open the door manually from the inside if you’re stuck inside the garage at the time. I guess if you want a belt and braces approach hard wiring is the way to go. I’ll take a look later today to see if there are any terminals on the back of the lifter motor.

Cheers.

This is what is on the back of the motor/lifter:-

Not sure what it is and if the small holes are the push-fit wire terminals. Also this panel is behind a cover that is like a battery cover on a remote control, so not sure how you’d route the wires without having to cut holes in the cover. I didn’t see any other panels or terminals around the motor.

Interesting. I’ll see if I can find a manual on line to see what those terminals are for.

Thanks for going to the trouble of posting a pic.