To improve them/their performance?

Stick in a Push air volume cap from TFT. Can’t link to it as for some reason my iPad is playing silly buggers but Google TFT and go into fork parts. It’s £40 and transformed my CTDs so I am now running 20psi lower without getting any blow through the mid stroke but plusher in normal riding.

For such low cost I can’t believe Fox has not done this themselves seeing all the criticism they got for these forks

You don’t need a £40 cap. Just add more oil in the air chamber 5cc at a time until you are happy.

Cap’n the 2015’s are supposed to be improved but mine are either too linear if I drop the psi or wooden/stiff. Does the cap sort this? I dont want to mess with the cc’s …I experimented once and it backfired!

Yup, that’s exactly the problem I had. Either the right pressure for normal riding but they blew through all the travel too easily, or the right pressure for reasonable hits but then far too harsh for flat trails. The Push cap sorts that by reducing the air volume so it ramps up properly. As per the previous post, now running 20psi less but still holding up nicely on the steep stuff. You get three different sizes so you can choose which works best, rather like the Pike tokens. Best £40 I have ever spent on the bike – transformed them from mediocre to really good

Oil in the air chamber takes up space just like the volume adjuster things but is a lot less costly.

Personaly with my 2013 34s I just gave up and fitted some 36s worlds apart

I’m only 60kg at best and the 34 did not work at the low pressure despite reducing the air chamber volume

I’ve got a different problem with my 2015 34s – I can’t get any more than 90mm of travel out of them, even though I’m running them at 15psi less than recommended for my weight and way less compression damping than I would normally. I’ve ridden them about 150 miles, so surely they’re bedded in? That 90mm of travel is very good, but I’d really like the whole deal…

If your only getting 90mm travel and the air pressure is not too high I would be going back to the shop with them.
I felt the performance of the 34’s I had was lacking. I was pretty reluctant to put more money into the forks do sold Them and bought some Pikes, problem solved.

Avalanche

If the spring is too linear then add some oil. If the damper is crap then Avalanche?

+1 for oil volume. My 2010 Revs are a tad divey, a couple of CCs of oil have lifted the front end during braking and have allowed me to lose some pressure, the front end grip is much improved.

Its a Talas so you would need a float conversion to use the Push cap.

To add oil- to the air side or the assembly side?

actually just spotted the TALAS in the title, you know what it stands for?
Travel Adjust Linear Air Spring. If you want progressive the Float is the one you want.

I’d prefer to avoid dropping in an expensive cart conversion to Float if I can help it- the Avalanche cart- although still expensive isn’t as much as I thought it’d be (if that makes sense)- at circa £60

Avalanche still leaves you with the Linear Air Spring in the other leg.

What @mikewsmith said!

Ok- I’ll hold my hands up I still dont know what all the terminology means. Same with cars really – oversteer/understeer, I was told it once but it didn’t really register. Same with linear, ramp up etc etc.

Linear means it’ll still like to dive?!

What tune setting is the fork set to?

I had an older (2012 I think) Talas that had horrible dive and the CTD made bugger all difference. Sent it to Mojo while still under warranty for them to investigate, and they adjusted to the to firm. It made a notable difference.

To improve them/their performance?

What is actually wrong with them? Or do you just want them betterer? By at least 37%?

Are they FIT CTD? with trial adjust? Have you changed any damping settings? Better or worse?

The open bath damper is arguably not as good as the FIT, but it’s easier to fiddle with. Just tip the oil out and change the visco. It will make a difference.

OK, simple version of the terms
TALAS, the linear bit means they took an air spring added travel adjust and then made it linear like a coil (because people insist on having coil feel stuff) means it goes through the travel the same all the way then use the damping cart to change that. Starting with the TALAS cart means the damping cart needs to work harder than if you were using a progressive float cart. How did you end up with TALAS in the first place?

Ok I’ve checked the steerer serial number these are the 2015 middle (evolution?) model.

If I run the fork on the ‘D’ setting the fork can unexpectadly drop/spike down into its travel almost washing out the front. So if I run more air in the forks become really firm/stiff feeling.

I’ve ended up using the trail setting 99% of the time with 180psi. The fork tends to be overcome on multiple/repeated hits even if I run lots of rebound or more damping. It still pogos out.

There is no air loss. It does leave oil rings on the stanchions- this is after 5+months of use if that helps?

Yesterday I dropped the BOS air shocks PSI down below the recommended psi for my weight as it was too firm- and this made the shock 🙂 but it also really showed up the front- just how stiff and unwieldy it feels.

If they’re still in warranty, speak to Mojo, tell them the issues and see if they can help you sort. In my experience though the Float is a far nicer feeling fork that the Talas.

If it leaves oil on the stanchions then you have splash oil in there and your seals are lubed.

D mode has no extra Compression damping and the trail adjust if you have it won’t be working. Best advice is to call Mojo/TF/Loco and see what they can do for you.

Covert to float is best solution if you don’t use the Talas travel adjust feature and then you can adjust air volume with topcaps or float fluid.
2016 retro fit FIT4 dampers will be available soon ( chassis different for 2016)

Hora,

Where did you get a price for an Avalanche kit @ £60??? I work it out as £290. If it was that cheap I think everyone would have fitted it.

If you check that item into your basket it is $449 the $100 is just to have it installed.

That’s why for me the Pike was a far better cost option.
I was a big Fox fan, but I think they dropped the ball a bit for a few years, and are now playing catch up.

The last set of fox forks I had were brand new 2013 kashima coated 34 floats. They simply do not feel anywhere near as good as Pikes.

From Avalanche

FOX 34 Open Bath Cartridge Kit Assy
Type of Riding: Enduro Racing,
Fork Model: Fox 34 Float 26,
Fork Travel: 140 mm,
Rider Weight: 100-109 lbs,
Air Pressure: 30 psi, Rider Ability: Beginner

$449.00
quantity|

$449.00

hora – Member

Ok I’ve checked the steerer serial number these are the 2015 middle (evolution?) model.

If I run the fork on the ‘D’ setting the fork can unexpectadly drop/spike down into its travel almost washing out the front. So if I run more air in the forks become really firm/stiff feeling.

I’ve ended up using the trail setting 99% of the time with 180psi. The fork tends to be overcome on multiple/repeated hits even if I run lots of rebound or more damping. It still pogos out.

There is no air loss. It does leave oil rings on the stanchions- this is after 5+months of use if that helps?

Yesterday I dropped the BOS air shocks PSI down below the recommended psi for my weight as it was too firm- and this made the shock but it also really showed up the front- just how stiff and unwieldy it feels
Reckon you may have a proper problem with them. Mine are Float rather than TALAS but presumably similar design for the most part. I am about 85kg fully kitted and running 80psi rather than the 180psi you are running. FWIW a couple of days ago I did the Ciaran path – lots of steep multiple rocky hits on that. Forks were pretty near faultless

LoCo – Member
Covert to float is best solution if you don’t use the Talas travel adjust feature and then you can adjust air volume with topcaps or float fluid.
2016 retro fit FIT4 dampers will be available soon ( chassis different for 2016)

Any pricing on the FIT4 cart yet and also a Float conversion? Still haven’t fitted the FIT you serviced for me 🙂

Its a bugga- approaching busy times now for the bike industry. If you only own one fork/bike your looking at a potential whole weekend of missed riding if you elect to get your forks fettled huh? 🙁

That’s why for me the Pike was a far better cost option.
I was a big Fox fan, but I think they dropped the ball a bit for a few years, and are now playing catch up.
The last set of fox forks I had were brand new 2013 kashima coated 34 floats. They simply do not feel anywhere near as good as Pikes

This, ha and ha

Any pricing on the FIT4 cart yet and also a Float conversion? Still haven’t fitted the FIT you serviced for me

No on price or availability, was told soon ish when chatting to supplier this morning as the cart. has to have a retro fit <2016 topcap due to chassis and topcap thread change on the 2016 34s which are basically a whole new fork in everyway.
2016 Float conversion would need the whole csu changing as the air spring system now has a transfer port machined into the inside of the stantion leg (like the pike & other solo air rockshox) So spendy for that conversion a volume reducing topcap would be a cheaper option to increase the progressiveness (is that word?! progressivity maybe 😉 ) of the linear air spring system.
2016 34 fork does look to be very good in top spec. version, if the 36s are a bit too much.

hora – Member
Its a bugga- approaching busy times now for the bike industry. If you only own one fork/bike your looking at a potential whole weekend of missed riding if you elect to get your forks fettled huh

What happened to the 55’s? Book in with someone for a wednesday and post monday?

Swapping carts isn’t that hard and should be easy to do as a straight swap. You could even order the parts and get a LBS shop to do it. Though starting from TALAS not sure if you will get to where you want cheeply.

Reckon you may have a proper problem with them. Mine are Float rather than TALAS but presumably similar design for the most part. I am about 85kg fully kitted and running 80psi rather than the 180psi you are running. FWIW a couple of days ago I did the Ciaran path – lots of steep multiple rocky hits on that. Forks were pretty near faultless

+1. 100mm 2014 Float Evolution here and they’ve been fine for 95% of the time. They’ve been used on Welsh trail centres in D mode where tbh, they should have come off much worse but we’re excellent, and I used them in T for racing (for the platform). 75kg and 85psi for me. They nearly – but didn’t – buck me off on Sunday, but that was my fault for putting the front wheel in a 2ft hole immedialtly following a lip drop off, should have been OtB!

I have no issue with dive using D for normal trail riding. They are 6 months old and when racing finishes in September they’ll go off for a first service and no doubt come back even better.

Modern Talas run much higher pressures due to the design, refer to owner manual for details 😉
& set on the sag not listed pressures. 😀