My rear formula oro k18 gets to the point where the lever goes close enough to the bar to touch my other fingers (i brake with one finger), this is my signal that i need to change the pads.

Replacing the pads cures it, but am slightly conscious that i am replacing the pads before they are fully worn out. If i have the reach adjustment any further from the bars i can't reach the lever that well when it's in the off position. i.e. there is too much range of travel when the pads are slightly worn, basically.

They don't need bleeding – it's not squishy, once the lever gets to full lock position it will not go any further.

What I effectively lack is the distinction between reach adjustment and bite point adjustment that e.g. the new hopes have got.

The springback action has not been quite as 'snappy' as when it was new since i crashed at CyB and rebuilt the lever, but other than that it's fine.

what i wonder is, is there a quick fix to make the bite point move further out as the pads wear?

Thanks

Take the wheel out, depress the lever a few times to bring the pads closer together, replace wheel, sorted.

You may end up bringing the pads too close to get the disk in, if this is the case use a LARGE bladed screwdriver to GENTLY move the pads apart slightly. then fit the wheel.

i have 3 x sets of K18's and this works a treat with them all.

My guess is that either

a) the brake is underfilled so runs out of fluid when the caliper pistons are a certain distance out (i.e. no fluid left in reservoir to push them further out). Try rebleeding.

b) the caliper pistons aren't moving out far enough because they're sticking in the seals

I've had both problems with my K24s

Try zip tying the lever tight to the bar overnight (with the wheel in!), this should move the caliper pistons out a little and 'sets' them closer to the disc in their seals. I usually have to do this when my pads get to 30% left or so.

Same with my K24's. Like Chucky said just remove the rear wheel, gently pull lever until you see the pads move out a little and replace wheel. I did this past night and all is good!

I used to use WBC and Chucky's trick, and it does work well, but sometimes the pistons move in too much and it can be a faff to move them back then centralise the caliper again.

Get back from ride, zip tie levers to bar – perfect braking for next ride 🙂

also got K18's does anybody know of a LBS that can put a new banjo end on a hose? Preston area ( tryed merlin ,leisure lakes ,formby ) Bleed kits and ends are on backorder at Chainreaction.

get intouch with Toby at propel (importers) and get the stuff from him.

If you want a hand bleeding them or want to borrow the bleed kit I have one.

I'm in Coppull.

Thanks for that Chucky.