Seems to me that either you set up the drops position (i) to be similar to your flats position, to get the best control off road, meaning you have no aero advantage, or (ii) a bit lower/longer to get some aero benefit when riding road – in which case you are comprimising the off-road capability even more.

Just wondering how folk set them up, and what benefits they get.

Just. No.

May I indulge with this traditional image?

I went back to a flat bar as I couldn't jump properly with a dropped bar.

I use one occasionally, the success of them does depend on set-up and the bar itself.. I got on with the WTB one best

You need the drops as high as poss. level with the saddle ideally … which makes the whole thing a bit of a steerer-stack-fest.

Good for smoothish tracks .. and climbing hills .. but from a physiological point of view you're asking a lot of your lower back to be pulling up over obstacles whilst in a bent-over position .. don't wanna slip a disc! 😉

It's very little to do with aerodynamics. More to do with getting a wider range of positions which is worthwhile on a single speed.

After I fitted Midges, I reckoned they were worth an extra tooth on the rear when it came to climbing.

They also allow a looser grip which is handy if you are riding a rigid front fork.

After I fitted Midges, I reckoned they were worth an extra tooth on the rear when it came to climbing.

How so?

cynic-al – Member
After I fitted Midges, I reckoned they were worth an extra tooth on the rear when it came to climbing.
How so?

Climbing felt easier.

Rubbish on a MTB ace on a cross bike.

You just started this thread as a rich vein for the BS of the week thread didn't you al?

ADH – not at all, this has puzzled me after a few attempts to ride flat bars off road and not getting it.

Unfortunately that thread has created its own BS and it may have a week or two off, albeit an alternative, such as "pwned of the week" or "TJ battle epic of the week" may appear.

epicyclo – Member

Climbing felt easier.

In what hand position relative to flat bars?

Saying that I did clean a climb for the one and only time with drops on a MTB. I put it down to fact that the hoods were a bit further forward keeping the front wheel under control more.
Still it was rubbish for everything else other than hurting people.

cynic-al – Member
'…epicyclo – Member
Climbing felt easier.'

In what hand position relative to flat bars?

Using the hoods and the drop. I'm moving about all the time.

The first time I used them I was 5 minutes faster round the 'Puffer course than I was the previous day.

I don't get a sore back after a 24 hour race anymore, and my wrists aren't banged up.

Edit: I ride a rigid hardtail SS

High rise not too long stem and proper off road drops are the best thing, otherwise they end up too low and too narrow.

http://www.singularcycles.com/gryphon.html

As to why you might want to ride off-road with drop handlebars, there are a number of good reasons.

A more natural angle and position of the hands, allows you secure purchase on the bars without needing a death grip.
A more secure feeling on the bars, no tendency to slide off the front. In rough terrain the hands are simply forced further into the hooks.
Variety of hand positions. Riding long distances with the hands in one position can cause them to become numb. Drops allow you to sit up and ride on the hoods or the tops to rest both hands and body.

Sure, it's a 29er but I don't think that really matters to the general thrust of the points.

I rode one round a few bits of Lee Quarry at the Weekender. It was great, including in the drops over the rock causeway.

I went all Victor Kiam as well :poor now:

I suspect (knowing little about it all) that it's more about running drops with 26 wheels on a bike that's made for the purpose. Like most things, trying to shoe horn drops onto bikes nowadays that are set up to run big forks and have fairly "sit up" positions (hence a higher headtube) probably isn't going to feel great.

Plus, I imagine drops and suspension forks are likely to feel weird, especially when you're in the 125 to 150mm travel bracket.

Lee McCormack mentions that human nature is to protect your head. Sticking your head low and forward, especially in steep situations, is counter-intuitive. It's something he recommends working through to master the attack position. I'd guess drops would make working against these natural instincts even harder.

Edit – they were flared bars as well, rather than being true roadie drops. Fairly broad as well.

a Chap called Dan lives in Sheffield.

years ago he saw photo's of Tomac riding drops, so, to be like tomac he starting riding with drop bars.

a couple of years later Dan met Tomac at a Race, he saw that Tomac was riding with flat bars.

'er, What happened to the Drop bars?'

Mr T: 'they're 5h!t.'

true story.

Tomac just raced drops cos he was racing on the road at the time and wanted to keep the same position, he was still f**king fast but it's not ideal for anything technical, fine for long xc style days though.

Being guided by other people's opinions is useful, but I have always believed in testing stuff myself and making up my own mind.

Flat bars may be no good for Mr Tomac, but it doesn't mean that they won't work for other people, especially those who will never have a hope of being anywhere near as skilled as he is. (eg me 🙂 )

Good article by Matt Chester on 63xc.com. It is a review but also gives advice on set-up etc.

I've set mine up as recommended by MC and it is very controllable and comfortable. Still playing about with bar/stem height, thus spacer city 😉

You need to put that frame in the wash to shrink it 😉

I was a little taken aback at the size of it (58cm) but it does give me the position I want without too many spacers. I am more than a bit concerned however that the non-sloping crossbar provides a comfy resting place for the twins on stand-over ! Short legs, long body ysee.

On my cross bike I often feel I have to go down on to the drops from the hoods to get control on tricky sections, and whilst my drops are a little higher than on my road bike, it is not sizeable (2-3cm maybe). Just seems to work, although admittedly I don't go too mad off road on the crosser.

Also remember, on your hard hitting gnarr 160mm forked hardtail, setup up with your bars level with your saddle whilst at rest, there will be times when the fork is compressed and your hands are way below your saddle.

Also remember, on your hard hitting gnarr 160mm forked hardtail, setup up with your bars level with your saddle whilst at rest, there will be times when the fork is compressed and your hands are way below your saddle.

Momentarily maybe – I don't see this as relevant.

I think that review by Matt Chester sums it up nicely.

Well, I don't momentarily loose control when I compress my forks! Agreed though, it's not that relevant.

I think I might ride slightly differently when on my cross bike. Down on the drops there must be a higher proportion of my weight on the front wheel and overall CofG is lower too – I think I am more prepared to let it drift. So much less grip with the narrow tyres it all feels so different. Will have to think about it next time I'm out.