After slicing my shin open on on my big ring last week (Abroad, high up and miles from anywhere) I have decided to throw away my Jay XC tendencies and replace it with a E-Thirteen bash ring.

It wasn’t easy getting rid of that lovely, but lethal 44t. But I rationalised that I use it so rarely these days.Getting to the pub when late for a night ride start, keeping the chain taught on rocky descents and not a lot else, that I managed to chuck it out. ;-(

But I’m wondering about a wee compramise. Is a 22/36 workable. Does it shift ok? And is it practical in the hilly Pennines? 34t is an option bit is much different to a regular 32t ?

Cheers all.

22-36 is fine. shifts a bit clunky and is quite a jump but worth it for the extra range.

run a short cage mech too and shouldnt have any issues dropping the chain.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/new-chainring-32-34-or-36t

I run 22/36 with an 11-32 cassette in the Peak and it works just fine. You will probably spend more time in the granny ring than you do with a 22/32/44 but otherwise no probs.

Does anyone actually use a big ring when off road?
I run a 22/32 on my 5 and rarely/never spin out with a 32/11 on the back.

i use a 22 36 with a large rear mech and never lost the chain yet and usually leave it on the granny for descents as well
You use more of your rear cassette I think with this set up as you often use 5th to 9th (easier to change up for a short little incline than changing front rings).
You need to adapt a bit but not dificult.
A few middle ring churners object to the extra 4 teeth as makes it to hard uphill to churn ana agranny ring spinner not an issue for me
EDIT:PS my big ring (on xc bike)gets used for roads and very occasionally on trails

Does anyone actually use a big ring when off road?

To answer that yes, big ring for rough ground more tension and less chance of dropping chain, also gets used on smooth fast flowing singletrack.

IME 22/34 gives the best spread of ratios to work with. I suppose that could just be with the gradients on my local trails though.

I have to say that I usually end up with 22/32 though, due to the excessive cost of replacing 34’s.

I can spin a 36 ring up to nearly 30 mph – fast enough for me offroad. If you shorten the chain there is no need for the big ring.

trailmonkey…gotta agree, a 22/34 would be perfect for off road. MRP LRP solves the chain issue.
Reason i asked about the big ring is i ran a 36 on my dh bike and only ever span out at ft bill between the tissot jump and finish…i would not want to be going the speed you need to clear the finish jump on my trail bike!

Do you need to adjust the chainline at all to make sure the two rings are in the middle of the cassette, or do you just literally take the big ring off?

Just take big ring off.
Granny/big ring will give poor chain line at the small/big ends of the cassette.

I run 22/36 and its fine, I wouldn’t bother with the e13 bash guard though as it weighs a ton, get a nice Al one (RaceFace or Blackspire are safe bets) or a Gamut one

I am also running a Blackspire Stinger but I have to admit I think thats overkill.

I found the shifts a bit clunky with the jump from 22 to 36 and the chain rubbed as well, but I changed to a dual specific SLX front mech and shifts are perfect with no rubbing.

I’ve been very happy with 22-32 and an 11-25 cassette. It means being able to use a proper short road mech, for loads of rock clearance and minimal chain slap – works virtually as well as a chain device IME.

I went to 22-36 when I took it to Morzine – works fine, has a bit more pace. 36×25 isn’t ideal for lazily staying in the middle ring though – the 32 is a better bet in the UK. Slightly cleaner shifting, an extra link out of the chain, and a bit more climbable (mind you if you’ve got a 32T cassette that’s not a big deal).

I’m surrently running 32/22 and am only recently thinking of a change to 34/22 due to gaining some rear travel.

with a bit of excel wizardry (if you can call it that) i decided to go for 38/28. it gives you ratios halfway between the normal 44-32-22 setup

works well for trail centres where you don’t really need that much gear range. one ring for climbs, one ring for descents.

the rings are quite hard to find though, the only brand that does both appears to be TA i think

petefromearth…would a 28 not limit you as to how steep a climb you can go up?
I wouldnt want to be grinding up a steep one with a 28 after 2hrs of riding!

22/32. When I spin out others have stopped pedalling anyway. THe only time I miss it is on road decents. Would get a 34t next time but while I had some 32t rings I used those.

I just took the big ring off and adjusted the limit screw on my front mech so I couldn’t over shift. Been running that for about 2 years now.

Currently about to go back to running 22/36 on the XC bike. If you learn to spin fast, then you can hold 30mph with 32-11 on a gentle road downhill…. So should be getting into the mid 30s with a 36.

There is a bit of a gap in the middle, so I think I’ll go for either 24/34 or 24/36 (whichever rings are cheaper at the time) when these rings wear out.

using 28/40 on my konakula, just about squeeze them in the granny and middle position so chainline is fine. if i recall you overlap 2 ratios and shifting is slightly more clunky but not an issue, i’m using TA rings too.
I’m just amazed how many of you think 32t cog and 22 ring is a useful gear!

dobo – I use 22 ring with 34 rear sprocket often I like to sit and spin up hills. You can never have too low a gear IMO / IME. I don’t like to get off and push

what you doing riding down roads anyway?!!???

i have standard SLX double set. works fine using the 3er shifter; just giggle the cable through when set to 2nd cog and tighten the bolt up.
fact you can’t shift further than 3rd cog means everything is good.

no clunky gear changes noticed…

i lose a few gears on the bottom end but like the big jump between the cogs. just throw the gears at the back around a little more….