http://www.wiggle.co.uk/jagwire-racer-brake-and-gear-cable-kit-for-road-bikes/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360381468&ci_src=18615224&ci_sku=5360381468uk&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Components&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsmJGKbtoR_dt%7Cpcrid%7C67090789262%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C5360381468uk

Will this do the trick for a cyclo cross bike with full length outers?

All other recommendations appreciated

Thanks

Apologies for the bump

That would be too short I’d imagine, you would need the Extra long kit

cable

or this

A friend bought some jagwire outer compression less cables from eBay but it was not genuine and didn’t work. He had to get his money back but he had already wasted his time fitting it.

I use aluminium tube for the fixed runs instead of bike outer cable. It’s more non compressible than any outer. I line it with narrow teflon airline hose. The aluminium tube I buy from B&Q, and the lining from an industrial airtools supplier. I’ve got enough for a lifetime at relative peanuts to using bike stuff.

Like this:

You have to make your own joints for where the ordinary flexible outer meets the tubing, but you’ll find a flexible v-brake noodle does that job nicely.

The tubing bends using just thumb pressure. It’s cheap enough to afford a few mistakes.

This gives such a good feel to a cable brake that even cantis work well.

Epicylco, that is brilliant! I assume you can whip out the liner and replace it independent of the metal outer when required?
*rushes excitedly to garage to begin tinkering*
I’m wondering whether brass or copper tubing might add some visual interest..

Thanks everyone

Epicylco that looks awesome.

Is it something like this??

http://www.diy.com/departments/ffa-concept-aluminium-round-tube-l1m/254217_BQ.prd

Any pointers for liner specs I should be looking for??

Doesn’t the metal tubing get crushed/kinked too easily to be practicable?

thekettle – Member
Epicylco, that is brilliant! I assume you can whip out the liner and replace it independent of the metal outer when required?

Yes. The liner does wear out after a few years, but it’s seconds to replace it.

I should probably do a YouTube on this because it’s simpler to show than to explain. Maybe on my next bike build.

BTW if you don’t like the bare alloy look of the tube, you can either paint it, or use shrink wrap so it looks like ordinary outer.

slimjim78 – Member
Doesn’t the metal tubing get crushed/kinked too easily to be practicable?

I’ve done it on several bikes over the last 5-6 years and never had a problem in use. I kinked a couple making the curves on the first job, but now I have the feel for it. The tube is cheap enough to make mistakes anyway, because it’s long enough to cut off a bit and still have plenty.

I have even done very tight bends when I converted a rod brake bike to cable levers (pic is in unfinished state). If you look closely you’ll see that it now has reverse levers and the tubing follows the curve of the handlebar and goes under the grips and through the original lever pivots.

CRC – Goodridge Outer

I bought this stuff for my CX bike, really good and they supplied it in the 3m length I ordered! Made a massive difference to my cable discs.

Had a real problem with rear cable disc on my Peregrine. Sourced some Ashima cable and its very very good.

YouTube vid sounds ideal.

For now I’ve ordered the goodridge cable as suggested above. Anyone know what end caps I should use with it??

Thanks

I have Avid Full Metal Jackets on two bikes that run cable discs.
Made a vast improvement to both of them.
Works the same as Epicyclo’s system but comes with all the fittings and heatshrink for any joints.
http://www.rczbikeshop.com/en_ue/avid-full-metal-jacket-cable-set-for-mechanical-disc-brakes.html

singlespeedstu – Member
I have Avid Full Metal Jackets on two bikes that run cable discs.
Made a vast improvement to both of them.
Works the same as Epicyclo’s system but comes with all the fittings and heatshrink for any joints.

It’s good stuff, and I have used it in the past, It suffers the disadvantage that it can only be used in straight runs – I never managed to bend it successfully. (There will be a tool for that though).

A good thing about it is the fittings come with it. It’s many times the price of my method though and no better (IMO).

I have managed to bend it to come straight off the caliper and run up the fork leg/seatstay guides. But think I’d struggle to do a 90 degree bend like in your picture up there.
I know Jeff Jones has succesfully done full solid runs using stainless tubing.
But he does have a little experience of playing with odd shaped tubes. 🙂

What did you use to bend it?

A very gentle use of the vice my hand and some cables inside it to try and help support it from kinking.
Was going to try sand inside the pipe but couldn’t think of a quick way to get it in there.

A brake pipe bending tool such as this one (better models are available) can be used to create a radius in runs of hollow tube, it will take a bit of effort but does produce a good result. Previous to having disc brakes (back in the 90’s) i used a similar set up to epicyclo on my mtb cantilever brakes but it often led to flaring/movement of the cantilever brake boss mounts and the rear stays due to the increased leverage which led to fitting of aftermarket brake boosters to try and hold everything together.

Thank god for disc brakes 😀

I used the goodridge stuff on a few builds and it’s been really good. Gave much sharper and more powerful braking with both road calipers and discs. Noticeably better than standard generic brake outer cable.