got rid of the XTR cranks as i assumed the BB Open was supplying was wrong, chainline was awful, shifting wasn’t great into the 42

and fitted their Rotor chainset, and really, it seems the same 😆

crank arm clearance on the chainstay is approx 10mm on either side,

chainline appears to be spot on in the 7th cog, and really forced in the 42t (although it does back pedal fine without dropping down the cassette)

going up the cassette from 3,2,1 something appears to click or stick momentarily, but i don’t know what it is, b-tension screw is adjusted so its not the jockey wheels on the cassette

everything is new as well, replaced all the old bits,

never remember my XX1 setup being clunky

normal or something needs sorting?

pics,
chainline in 7th
chainline in 1st
mech position/chainlength in 1st

Have you double checked the spacers that come with the Rotor cranks?

Certainly on mine there are several ways of picking the wrongs spacers depending on BB.

I’ve got a q-ring too which is a very noisy set-up.

I will look at my chain line tonight, but to be honest yours doesn’t look that untypical.

My chainline on XTR is not great but thats mainly because I have an older XTR 985 Race chainset with a wolftooth ring (mounts on outside of the tabs not inside). I put BB driveside spacer none driveside to make it a bit better, didnt have any issues shifting to the 42 ring though either way (XT rear mech) it was just a bit noisy before

But are your issues in shifting to largest cog anything to do with you using a 42tooth rear cassette with an XTR rear mech?
I thought XTR where only good for 40tooth maximum

Looks very similar to my x01 setup with six cranks moved as far inboard as they will go.

I don’t notice any issues in use,but the chainline does look awful

I also use an xtr mech with the x01 cassette

Have you double checked the spacers that come with the Rotor cranks?

came supplied with a 2mm, 5.5mm and a 8mm washers

this is the axle showing when fitted with the 11.5mm conical washer and a 5.5mm washer – this is the setup that gave me pics above,

everything seems to tighten up fine,

No idea, but I you’ll be catching that loop of cable on undergrowth etc.

came supplied with a 2mm, 5.5mm and a 8mm washers

this is the axle showing when fitted with the 11.5mm conical washer and a 5.5mm washer – this is the setup that gave me pics above,

everything seems to tighten up fine

I’m sure that’s correct. The 11.5mm conical on its own on the NDS? (I’m on a PF30 BB)

nothing on the NDS – BBRight

video says nothing about fitting anything on the NDS, says to fit the 8mm – but that will make it worse, everything seems tight with the 5.5mm spacer

Okay, that could be different.

Trying to get the user manual online is balls at the moment, the website has been overhauled and it’s a mess.

On my PF30 there is definitely a conical spacer either side.

Going home shortly will look at my manual and check the difference.

Had the same with my gxp/sram setup and did a thread on it as I was also shocked, lined up with 7th gear but apparently is normal. Means when you back pedal in 1st it drops down the block etc… http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/gxp-x1-single-ring-chainline

Tubs and gold hubs? 8)

No idea but why has the xtr derailleur got a spoon attachment on the back of it. 🙂

Di2…

I know,i know.Just being down right silly. 😆

so, i bought another Open O-1.1, and its exactly the same (full XX1)

never remember it being like this on my tallboy 😕

I reckon you’re overthinking it and should just ride you bike, and the cleansiness of your bike has convinced me 🙂

got 5 kids and the oldest is 5 1/2, youngest is 4 weeks, summer holidays, and coming of a bust leg last year, times tight, roll on school starting next week

That looks about normal to me. All 1×11 chain lines are off from where you would like. They should run around the 45mm mark but are in the range of 49 to 51 depending on the crank. The issue is that if you tried to make a sub 46mm crank not only would you likely run into clearance issues between chainring and chainstay, but you’d also have problems with chains clashing on the bigger cog next door (due to the big jumps on the 1x cassettes). That said, its why we’ve adopted removable ISG05 tabs on the Aeris 120. You can’t run a chain device in a non-boost set up, but you can run a non-boost crank up to 32T (IIRC) and that gets you an equivalent 46-48mm chain line, which is nice if you want to avoid the chain line issues that you can get on 1×11/12. (incase you’re wondering the ISG05 tabs are removable in order that you can run a converted double/triple without the granny tabs clashing with the ISG05 tabs, and you cant run a chain device non boost as the pivot is too wide so it made sense to make it removable)

dirtyrider – Member
got 5 kids and the oldest is 5 1/2, youngest is 4 weeks, summer holidays, and coming of a bust leg last year, times tight, roll on school starting next week

And you’ve still got impressive bike based jewellery, good work that man. Chainline looks OK to me, about the same as on my boosted bike

Pic of the bikes?

A bent rear derallieur hanger can cause a slight hesitation or misalignment when shifting through the cassette, especially in the middle of the cassette. Start with getting the hanger checked for alignment, and don’t assume a new hanger is correct, the frame tabs could be out from an impact or even manufacture.

Sounds like the B tension might be a bit out of adjustment.

I had this on my cross bike with XTR Di2 and ended up filing the mech mount (the flappy bit on the top of the mech you remove when running it direct mount) down a bit to allow the mech to sit nearer to the cassette. Even with the b tension screw all the way out it wasn’t close enough to shift and kept stalling.

GB