Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 62 total)
  • any opinions on living with kids in Johannesburg? (and if there is any mtb'ing!)
  • big_scot_nanny
    Full Member

    Hey folks, would appreciate your insights.

    Have the potential for a good job in Africa, based in Jo’burg. Would need to move there with the family.

    Any experiences on quality of life for a young expat family? ❓

    Moving from Switzerland, so can’t imagine a greater contrast, but me and the missus agree we would like one more crazy move before settling down (back in Scotland most likely). 😀

    Would appreciate any insights, as I must admit at this stage the security issues seem to be making this a no-go. A shame, job looks amazing and would be a cool experience for the family. 🙁

    Cheers,
    Kev

    PS – am I taking my bikes or selling them? 😆

    qwerty
    Free Member

    I know nothing about the place but I guess it’d be one of those places where you’d have to live within a secure compound, kids couldn’t roam as free range as they’d be used to, you’d probably get to own a gun and your whole idea of security would need a radical upgrade. Be great for the contrast though.

    richi
    Free Member

    ive been south Africa a few times now staying for a few month and my parents have a place out there,
    i think its a great place although it is in cape town not jo burg. I hate when people talk about getting kidnapped and stuff out there as in reality i felt much safer over there than i do walking around in manchester at night!!!!
    obviously if you go marching in the slums at night you are asking for trouble!
    if you would feel safer the estates you can live on can come with 24hr security but ours doesn’t, we rent it out around the year, never had any breakins or even problems. The “blacks” and “colours” are really friendly over there as well

    If i had the chance i would would jump at it, take your bike over there as there is some truly beautiful places over there, remember there is plenty of coast line, and give surfing a try, i was scepticle but its a awesome sport

    qwerty
    Free Member

    It could be the perfect excuse for a fat bike?!

    hora
    Free Member

    I’ve no direct personal experience of SA however I worked with a SA girl who categorically said she knew (personally) people who had been raped or murdered – after I’d asked her if it really was as dangerous as the press makes out.

    I live in Manchester- within 0.3-1mile of my house there have been 3 gun deaths within the past 3 years. I feel very safe thanks. Those gun deaths were crims on crims not a crim jacking, attacking or raping a member of the public. A huge difference.

    uselesshippy
    Free Member

    You know how every aussie you meet, has a story about their mate, cousin etc, and a shark.
    I find south africans are like about car jackings.

    camo16
    Free Member

    although it is in cape town not jo burg

    Security-wise, there’s a big difference, isn’t there? Cape Town is usually considered a lower-risk destination than Johannesburg?

    Unless you can afford to live in the secure suburbs of Johannesburg – somewhere like Sandton – I’d think twice before moving my family out there. Especially after experiencing Switzerland.

    Shred
    Free Member

    Cape Town is a totally different place to Joburg.

    Basically, very bad traffic with long commutes. Gated communities are the preferred way of life. Your perception of security and what is going on around you needs to be completely different where you look at everyone as a possible criminal. There is also massive inequality in society so it is quite a difficult place to live in.

    Shred
    Free Member

    Oh, and cycling has exploded over there. There are a lot of races (every weekend) all over the place, and a lot of farms have made tracks to cater for the boom.
    Most of the riding will be in more secure locations so can cost, or in larger groups due to security. There have been reports of an increase in crime against cyclists due to the value of their bikes.
    I would never ride on the road there due to the terrible driving.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    We have an office out there are every single employee has been assaulted, robbed, car jacked and/or robbed. They all live in nice secure compounds as well, they either get into the compound or get you on the way in / out.

    It is not a place for taking children. One of our Female sales reps came home (to her secure house) to find a bunch or robbers had got in and were holding her husband and children hostage. They put a gun to her 6 year olds head and demanded she open the safe. They got in by threatening the family of her maid who let them in as they said they’d kill her children if she didn’t.

    One of our field guys, who since emigrated to Oz, had a neighbour robbed. For good measure they chopped both hands off the daughter of the house and left her.

    I could go on, we’ve had an office there for 10 years and the list is endless.

    One of our customers there is a keen MTBer, he says they have to be very careful as the locals chase them on dirt bikes with semi-automatics, hold up the entire group. Phone for a pickup to take the bikes, phones, wallets, shoes & clothing and then leave the naked 20 miles for a trail head.

    Wozza
    Free Member

    I’ve been three times for a week at a time and stayed at the Hyatt. I didn’t have any trouble at all but I did take precautions. I was working on main street so I had the car service take us in daily to the site with armed security everywhere, but it’s kinda the norm.

    My colleague didn’t follow any advice and was robbed within 90mins of landing.

    I couldn’t comment on what it’s like to live there but it’s not on my list of places to ever visit again to be honest. I don’t profess to have really experienced the place. There’s bits of it that are pleasant to look at but I think the locals live further out than I was.

    One thing that was said by all though, was that Cape Town was completely different, a lovely place i’m told.

    dazh
    Full Member

    I have no direct experience to offer, but the people from my work who have been out to our office there for either short or extended stays have not much (ie nothing) good to say about the place.

    Clong
    Free Member

    Cape town is ace, Joburg, what footflaps said.

    Having said that, one of my mums friends is from joborg and was terrified of coming over to live in London. All she had heard about London was of killings, mugging etc via the news.

    However i’ve been to cape town and joborg.

    29erKeith
    Free Member

    I had family which lived just outside Jo’burg, huge gates razor wire round the garden, bars over the doors and windows. My uncle had been mugged a knife point, they knew people how have been killed and plenty car jacked and mugged. The kids never went anywhere on foot always in the car to from school or any other activity’s

    They moved back here a few years back when a business deal went wrong and wiped them out, no benefits\help over there and they were finding in impossible to get work. They’ve always made it very clear they hate it here and would love to go back, which I really struggle to understand considering above.

    tbh we wish they’d go back too 😈
    they’re on their feet now but are very bitter about everything so we we rarely speak any more.

    Cape Town though as other have said is a completely different game, it’d be on my list to visit again or even move to possibly. Jo’berg no chance imho

    [edit] after they moved back they were paranoid about everything for ages, kids barely allowed out of the house (18 and 15 ish at the time) mental! [/edit]

    GrahamS
    Full Member

    in reality i felt much safer over there than i do walking around in manchester at night!!!!

    Grew up in Glasgow and went to a few silly places in my youth, (including Manchester 🙂 ), but I’ve never had my Spidey-sense tingle more than when we got lost in Jo’burg and ended up driving through a few “wrong” neighbourhoods.

    We’d taken reasonable precautions (rented small crap car, removed the rental stickers, all bags hidden in boot or under seats, doors locked, reading the map in the footwell) but I don’t mind saying that I was bricking it.

    mrmoofo
    Full Member

    Jo’burg will be the polar oppisite of CH. I lived in Zurich for 8 years – great country-side, very safe, high std of living, but the people are weird

    Jo’Burg, I have done 5 trips – around 6 weeks in total. As everyone says Cape Town (and Port Elisabeth) are very different. TBH, I have never found Jo’Burg that bad – but I wouldn’t move there from CH ( and CH salary and tax benefits)with kids. If you were adventerous, or in a dull job, it might be worth a punt. But I wouldn’t inflict it on my offspring.
    But Jo’burg is a bit of a shithole, with terrible traffic, and very big divisions between the haves and have nots. If you can ignore that, it could be a stepping stone for a few years.
    My friends out there (who are Brits) still love it. Their son, who has been there since he was 8, wouldn’t want to live anywhere else … It is a fanatastic , outdoorsy lifestyle.

    dan74
    Free Member

    Not been myself but was told a story yesterday by my missus who is a fashion stylist
    A photographer she works with got back from Cape Town with a broken leg, yesterday she found out how
    It happened…
    Said photog and his assistant went out on the pop and on the way home got in a taxi only to find out it wasn’t a taxi and were then robbed at gun point by a hidden passenger. There were essentially kidnapped and told there were being driven out to a shanty town. Earlier in the day they’d heard of a new gang initiation where they kidnap tourists and shoot them. They bailed out of the ‘taxi’ at speed and got away with a few broken bones. F@ck that sh!t!

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    I can only reinforce much of what has been said. I have worked in Johannesburg for short periods and enjoyed working there. You don’t die as soon as you walk outside a fenced compound contrary to some reports. However there is no way I would move there. Everyone I worked with had been robbed or mugged at some point, a couple quite brutally. It’s the only country I can think of where they have road signs to warn of hijack risk.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    Our office had a hotel about half a mile away and I did used to walk to work along the main road until my colleagues found out and insisted they picked me up everyday. They were quite surprised I’d made it every day for a week without being robbed….

    lodious
    Free Member

    we got lost in Jo’burg and ended up driving through a few “wrong” neighbourhoods.

    Were you using Apple’s maps Graham? 😀

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    I was happy to walk around so long as I had nothing of value, wouldn’t have carried a laptop bag or anything though. Local staff thought it was stupid though, life in Johannesburg consisted of driving from one fenced compound to another. Shopping centre, office, hotel all surrounded by high fences gates and security. Not how I’d want to live.

    Whathaveisaidnow
    Free Member

    if you like to Braai (BBQ) in a nice estate and get fat, its the place for you.

    You really want to be looking at Cape Town, southern Suburbs, helderberg etc if you want a semi safe, mtbing lifestyle…a more sedate way of life than what is on offer in Joburg – everything is faster there and the people are different.

    So i’m told.

    big_scot_nanny
    Full Member

    Thanks all, but can you tell me how you really feel? 😯

    So, basically, a complete hell hole then? Lovely. 😆

    Footflaps, you build an awesome shed, and your opinions on this are clear.

    Yes, the switch from CH would be quite formidable. Here, the peeps can be a bit local town for local people, but the quality of life is staggeringly high, as is the eye watering cost of everything.

    But, we want an adventure. Maybe this is not it? I stated in my file I will not go anywhere with significant security threats, and company are playing that side down, and compared to places like Venezuela, Nigeria etc that is certainly true.

    Nothing final, the offer will probably not really materialize, but good to be forewarned!

    BTW, mate who has just come back from there states that mtb’ing is massive, although if I get worried riding a nice mtb when I am back in the rougher parts of scotland, can’t imagine I’ll feel any safer in SA!

    Cheers all, I’ll let you know how it progresses. Any other insights or views, keep them coming.
    Kev

    bwaarp
    Free Member

    Go if you can afford or are willig to –

    * Live in a world where you have to be mentally capable of dealing with violence.
    * Live in a secure compound
    * Keep schutzhunds as pets
    * Kill someone with 12 gauge shotty/9mm
    * Own an armored car
    * Take out kidnapping insurance
    * Teach your children and wife how to defend themselves.
    * Deal with your wife leaving you if one of your kids gets slotted in a car jacking.

    Got a few mates from SA who **** hate the place. Their stories make American hoodies sound quaint.

    chewkw
    Free Member

    A place for family? Ya … hmmmm … 🙄

    Are your family members trained in zombie shooting with Benelli M4 or Glock 29? If yes go for the adventure of a life time. i.e. zombie safari shooting. If no then prepare for media headline.

    Go to Ozland instead as Jaws will at least leave you alone on land.

    cloudnine
    Free Member

    It’s only a job… stay put or move to NZ or Canada if you want somewhere adventurous rather than being constantly worried and paranoid for the safety of your wife and children.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    I was first introduced to the firing range, 9mm pistols and dumb dumb bullets there – basic office issue if you do field work. The cross head bullets (dumb dumbs) are essential in case you don’t hit them in a vital organ with the first shot, hopefully the severe soft tissue damage will cause them to bleed to death quickly.

    That is of course if they don’t shoot you before you spot them coming….

    globalti
    Free Member

    I’ve spent many weeks working in Johannesburg, driving around and visiting customers in some quite rough areas. As with any of these risky places it’s all about being in the wrong place at the wrong time, luckily I haven’t and I’ve always had a great trip. Undoubtedly there’s a lot of paranoia but there is also potential for things to go badly wrong.

    I think it would be an exciting and interesting posting; for only two years I would go if the money was good. And the traffic isn’t as bad as it was before the World Cup; the roads are pretty good and improvements are happening. Probably 95% of the bad stuff is black on black violence, especially now that some blacks are beginning to acquire some wealth. The upside is one of the best climates in the world and some superb mountain biking, hiking and game viewing.

    mrmoofo
    Full Member

    Big Scot – one comment from me.

    I did 8 years in CH. Many people really love it – I did for the first 4 years ( then came back to the UK for 2 years), the second 4 years were harder – mainly due to the pound falling against the CHF ( and me getting paid in GBP)

    But the place changed – the locals became more arrogant ( quite difficult but they had !), all the SVP nonsense was joked about at work – but someone was voting for them…

    For wifey’s sanity we got out – moved back to the UK,

    I miss some things – the mountains and the great passes to ride on a motorbike, but I don’t miss getting ripped off for everything, the fact that pizza and beer for two cost the best part of 100 quid … or the locals.

    Change locations – but maybe not RSA!

    oldgrump08
    Free Member

    b_s_n – I’m living in Jo’burg at the moment. I enjoy it but don’t have young kids and have lived in similar places before (Sao Paulo for 3 years) so the security situation hasn’t fazed me (yet). I only got the chance to go because a colleague’s wife didn’t take to it. They had young kids.
    There’s a pretty active mtb scene (although I’ve yet to get into it). You’re welcome to get in touch if you want to know more.

    globalti
    Free Member

    I’ve only done road riding in SA (very early weekend club runs and Cape Argus three times) but I suspect you might find the mountain biking a bit different to the UK. It looks to consist of miles of dusty trails rather than steep necky stuff like you’d find in the UK.

    oldgrump08
    Free Member

    This place is near Pretoria, around 40 mins drive from Jo’burg on a Sunday morning. fun to blat around for 2 or 3 hours, in amongst the antelope etc :). Loads of big rides further afield.

    ononeorange
    Full Member

    I have never been, but judging by some South Africans we met on a trip recently, it sounds an utter hell-hole. Maybe tolerable if you like living in a prison.

    I have to say they were not the most considerate, thoughtful or polite of people either, but obviously two people do not a whole country make.

    hora
    Free Member

    From reading the above. Is earning a little extra $$ really worth the risk? I’d rather my son/partner was back in Blighty if I was working in any high risk area. (No offence meant guys).

    oldgrump08
    Free Member

    Really not THAT bad! Yes there’s some bad stuff goes on, but then there was when I lived in Streatham in S London some years ago! There’s a helluva lot that is good about the place……

    hofnar
    Free Member

    I have been To Johannesburg and neigbouring Pretoria. Have travelled to South Africa about 20 times studied around Cape Town in 2003 2004 and Worked in Durban in 2010 2011. Have many friends there love the country love the livestyle. Would hesitate to move there(country) with kids, would not wan’t to live in Joburg with wife and kids. Joburg is dangerous its the rape capital of the world as said get used to hig fences barbed wire, bars in front of windows, caarying pepper spray on rides. Have woken up with a knife against my throat and been attacked on my bike several times in the safer western cape.

    Though its a lovely holiday destination, the have an active ride scene and beautiful overwelming scenery in many places. Must book a ticket for another visit still have a spare bike somewhere down there. http://www.thehubsa.co.za for cycling info road is keen MTB wonderfull. Though inform yourself where you ride some are’s are no go others only in a group. I have been asked to hang back and wait for some ladies in a race as they ran out of armed escorts for part of a mtb route.

    To put it in perspective I have been the most scared in my life in Johannesburg. I currently live in Rio De Janeiro and cycle along the edges of the Favel’as I have worked in one of the most dodgy streets in durban, Lived in Mozambique lived and worked in Helhole Luanda Angola, worked in Angolan bush but only in Johannesburg I am afraid of my own shadow. So No I wouldn’t especially if you are used to Switserland. Especially as the country is becoming more unstable with farm and mining strikes(some of my mates had part of their farm burnt down and flew the family out with the chopper that brought the mercenaries in). Also Mandela’s health is faltering its a big worry as his death is expected to be the spark to ignite quite a bit more violence.

    darrell
    Free Member

    as above. Joburg is a hellhole and I wouldnt move back there for a gold pig.

    irelanst
    Free Member

    Sorry another doom story;

    I shared a house at Uni with a lad from Jo’burg, me and the girlfriend went to visit one summer. The area they lived seemed safe enough but there were private security guards and regular police patrols (his dad was a policeman and it seemed as though most of the neighbours were).

    One day the girlfriend and I went to see some of the sights and she got her bag snatched, I ran after the lad but lost him in the crowd, but found a police car. We explained what had happened and the officer said jump in and we’ll see if we can spot him. We drove along for a few mins when the girlfriend said that’s him. The cops jumped out and chased the kid down an alley and we heard gunshots. The cops came back and asked if the bag they took of the lad was ours, it wasn’t they had shot the wrong kid, the cop said jump back in the car and we’ll carry on looking – we just got a taxi back to the house and left the next day. I wouldn’t want to live somewhere that life has so little value to the police, let alone the criminals.

    This was ‘a few’ years ago though, so things may have changed.

    oldgrump08
    Free Member

    Well looks like I’m a lone voice……. People have certainly had a rough time of it here – I’ll bear it in mind and keep my guard up. As for the OP – couldn’t recommend moving to SA given all that’s been written above.

    hora
    Free Member

    The cops jumped out and chased the kid down an alley and we heard gunshots. The cops came back and asked if the bag they took of the lad was ours, it wasn’t they had shot the wrong kid

    You know, although not frequent (or maybe frequently reported..) – this also happens with US Cops.

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