There must be some tyre or other that is more puncture resistant, I’m getting beyond worrying about wether it grips or not, I’ve got yet another slow, which I hate even more, it’s a three day slow, so I haven’t got down to the nitty gritty, I use it every day so it’s muddy and I’m just so hacked off with keep repairing…

There used to be some stuff you lined the tyre with years ago to prevent thorns breaking through to the tube but I can’t a) remember what it’s called and our local shop has closed.

So what’s the drill, is there anything guaranteed puncture proof?

At least what have you found to be the most resistant?

At least what have you found to be the most resistant?

tubeless and lots of sealant.

4 in a month pfft, I’ll sympathise when it’s 4 per ride 🙂

The answer you are looking for is:
what wwaswas said

I think the liner was called lizard skins.
Several solutions (assuming it’s an mtb)
You’ll have to get the tyre off and properly look at it. I’d guess there’s a small thorn in it causing the slow puncture.
Once you’ve sorted that maybe put a downhill tube in. That may help with pinch flats, thorns may still be a problem.
You could try slime filled tubes. Either buy them or fill the ones you have with sealent.
I tried slime tubes ages ago with not a great deal of success.
Or go tubeless….
I was getting punctures (pince flats) proberbly every 2nd ride on average. Had a phase of multiple punctures on every ride.
Went tubeless and now have flats VERY infrequently. The flats I’ve had only 2 have been because of an unsealable hole. The others have been my fault if you like, I’d let the sealent dry up so there was nothing to seal with.
For the little extra looking after I reckon it’s really worth it. Rides aren’t spoilt now!!

Dual ply.

Most manufacturers have variations on this with reinforced sidewalls, Schwalbe with Snakeskin walls, Maxxis with Exo walls etc etc but proper dual ply has never let me down.

There is a weight penalty, are dual ply tyres any heavier than a tubeless setup with loads of sealant chucked in?…who cares, we’re talking mere grams of weight here.

I favour Maxxis dual ply as my favourite HighRollers come in that form too, I haven’t had a puncture for years on a MTB, I genuinely cannot remember the last one I had….and that’s with old school tubes too.

Dual ply tyres also have more of their own inherent support to the body/carcass of the tyre meaning I can get away with low pressures too which is a bonus.

Slime

or go tubeless

tubeless. Cheaper, less hassle, one puncture in over 2 years (caused by double puncture), easy to fit (IME), no way I’d go back to tubes

Other than going tubeless, which if you don’t have tubeless compatible rims will no doubt result in more help threads, even if you do have tubeless rims it may result in help threads…. I used to use panaracer flat away, a Kevlar strip which is very light and tough. It is though a bit of a one use thing, once it’s been stuck in your tyre it’s very difficult to remove and put in another tyre. I think wiggle have them, they really do work, unless your punctures come from the side. Also schwalbe make presta tubes that have a removable core. Buy a little widget to remove core, bottle of sealant and a syringe, all available from most bike shops, and top up your tubes. My 10 yr old had this setup and hadn’t had a puncture in over a year.

deviant
Dual ply.

There is a weight penalty, are dual ply tyres any heavier than a tubeless setup with loads of sealant chucked in?…who cares, we’re talking mere grams of weight here.

Sorry but, IMO, utter tosh!

Dual ply, 60a, wire, High Roller = 1075g plus tube at 150g = 1225g
Single ply, 60a, folding, High Roller = 690g

That’s over 530g difference. With an assumed SG for Stan’s sealant of 1.2g/ml you’d need to squeeze in 440ml of sealant to be at the same weight. Squeeze-in would be appropriate as I don’t think it would all go in 🙂

Stans recommend 120ml of sealant, so even going to 180ml (“loads of sealant”) you’ll still be 300g lighter with tubeless – per wheel!!

That is very noticeable.

BTW I’ve never had the need, even with brand new tyres, to use more than 120ml.

So, as above, the answer is tubeless.

Sorry but, IMO, utter tosh!

agreed*. Dual ply run tubeless are pretty much bulletproof IMO, but the weight penalty is serious so for normal riding only a last resort you’re suffering a lot of flats.

Depending on your setup I’m pretty sure tubeless gubbins isn’t far off the weight of an innertube so any increase in tyre weight is felt.

* and I think your weight for dual ply is optimistic, afaik dual ply are >1200g

deviant – Member
Dual ply.

There is a weight penalty, are dual ply tyres any heavier than a tubeless setup with loads of sealant chucked in?…who cares, we’re talking mere grams of weight here.

You’re talking close to a pound per tyre for dual ply.

I tried that Panaracer flat away once – took it straight out as it added a lot of rolling resistance.

A mate uses a Slime liner, which works for him. I think it is harder than the flat away stuff, so maybe the rolling resistance isn’t so much.

But tubeless is really the way to go – if you have decent hubs then you could get them built into some stans rims. JRA do this in the off season I think.

The faff of tubeless rules it out for me.

There are threads in here all the time about people struggling with tubeless setups, nobody ever posts about having trouble putting a tube in!

….and 300g is a penalty I’m more than happy with for the ease of running tubes and the bonus of puncture protection of dual ply.

Each to their own, been on too many rides where somebody with a tubeless setup has to stop every ten minutes to inflate a poorly sealed tyre….or has to inflate again following a ‘burp’ from a harsh landing….or the sealant won’t stop the puncture and said rider invariably starts trying to scrounge a tube from someone!

My hardtail weighs 33lbs….I’m 90kg….saving 300g is not a priority.

nobody ever posts about having trouble putting a tube in!

no, but there’s endless ‘how can I have less pucntures’ threads.

Tubeless gets all the faff out the way whilst you’re in the warmth of your own garage, not at 10pm in the peeing rain when your wheel has 3lb of mud hanging off it. If you ride with peopel who are constantly having to sort things out on tubeless whilst riding they’re doing it wrong.

and 300g is a penalty

[b]per tyre[/b] and has already been said, probably closer to 400. 800g is heck of a chunk in cycling terms.
But if you’re happy with that it’s cool.
I agree there can be faff with tubeless but once you’re set, you’re usually set until your sealant dries up or catastrophic failure (which would ruin a tubed setup aswell)

+1 tubeless

The faff of tubeless rules it out for me

If you’re happy to run mega heavy tyres to avoid punctures then go for it.

The answer is a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB tyres. You’ll need a crossbow to puncture them bastards!

Tubeless swaps faff on the trails for faff in the garage (actually that depends but IME maybe 50% of set ups I’ve used have been a faff).

I’d much rather faff at home than when riding. YMMV. All my offroad bikes are tubeless.

The answer is a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB tyres. You’ll need a crossbow to puncture them bastards!

This is true.

Anyway, can’t believe you’re ruling out tubeless. When I was riding thorn strewn bridleways down south it was an absolute god send. If you take the time to work out how to set it up properly you shouldn’t have any problems.

If your only criteria is to be puncture proof there are companies that make solid MTB tyres . They will be heavy and won’t work very well but at least you won’t puncture .

Got some IKONs on 29 inch with my last bike.
Never had so many flats, just gone to continental tubes presta with slime. You can easily remove the core on these so no real faffing.
If that fails it will be new tyres I reckon.

Prevention is better than the cure.
Tyres are no exception.
Tyre liners are the answer.

Are the punctures in the back or front? If at the back try a dh or free ride tube then a dual ply tyre.
Is your rim tape ok not out of line etc

Tubeless faff is from non TLR tyres. Never had any issues with TLR tyres. Xxx

Once you get the knack it’s no faff with non TLR tyres. Though that’s Maxxis tyres, which are basically tubeless ready anyway.

If you’re not prepared to go tubeless though and all those flats are pinch flats, then try more pressure. May depend also on the tubes, the rim profile, how aggressive you are and how you fit the tube or the way the tyre is seated. If thorns, try tarmac 😛

Otherwise, tubeless + sealant, and deal with the faff. It’s far less faff when you aren’t having to mess with punctures on a regular basis and rarely need to touch the tyres other than pump up occasionally. Unless you’re someone who likes to swap tyres regularly.

OK, thanks for all that, don’t the I want the pfaff of tubeless certainly not if I need special rims, it’s just the time of the year down here thorns everywhere.

That slime picture of the clear urethane barrier is what I’m after I think, I might also gives those Swalbe marathon tyres a go. I’ve tried that other liquid slime it’s pants. I get two kinds of puncture, thorns or valve wrench.

I was at this show once and there were inner tubes with nails driven through them, sort of self sealing, I forget what they were called, was hoping they may have made some inroads into the market.

just to chip in again with the tubeless argument..
I run bog standard Mavic 719 rims, with a stans rim strip in and spesh Purgatory tyres. It was no harder than putting in a tube!