- This topic has 26 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by bigyinn.
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6 year old fork, lots of stiction
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molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years ago
It’s been regularly serviced, greased and re-oiled by me plenty of times, but the stiction is now pretty bad even when I’ve just re-oiled it.
I’m hoping it’s the seals that have degraded and become sticky, and new seals will fix it. Does that sound reasonable?
bigyinnFree MemberPosted 10 years agoDo we have to guess which make and model of fork it is, or would you like to share?
NorthwindFull MemberPosted 10 years agoIf it’s on original seals, then yeah, there’s a good chance it’s that- just a side effect of not being properly serviced. But there are other things that could cause it, worn bushings can go sticky frinstance (or sloppy, which can cause a bit of jamming/resistance)
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoMarzocchi 66 SL ATA, 2007, the bane of my bike servicing existence. I’ve been faffing around with it every since I got it, but possibly for the wrong reasons at first.
It’s very plush when boinged carefully in the garage, but when riding the non-axial forces seem to cause bad stiction. I would be surprised if it’s bushings – no play, and it really hasn’t had that much riding in its time.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoWhere the f to buy these seals from? Windwave don’t seem to want to deal with me directly.
crashtestmonkeyFree MemberPosted 10 years agowhat diameter stanchions? I think I still have some 32(?)mm oil and dust seals in my parts box from an older Marz fork I no longer own. Got em from CRC but if I still have em and they fit you can have em for price of postage. At work at mo but can check tonight.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoJust found them on CRC, I hope all the 35mm ones are the same. Thanks for the offer CTM but too small.
Air spring seems buttery smooth still so I’m assuming I don’t need the internal o-rings.
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agoso, lets get this straight, it has a lot of stiction when force is applied from behind with a rider onboard but cycles smoothly unladen and you “would be surprised if it’s bushings”?
What else do you reckon it could be?
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoWhat else do you reckon it could be?
Well as above – seals. Any slight play in the busings would result in pressure on the front or back of the seal. When boinging it, it does develop stiction higher up the travel, when the internal pressure is high. More so than other forks I have.
It might be worth changing the bushings too whilst I’m at it I suppose.
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agoyour bushings are either dry/dirty or worn.
worn seals on their own don’t really cause excessive stiction
dry seals will cause stiction but it will be noticable cycling the fork unladen too.molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoRight, thanks. New bushings are due into CRC on 23rd July. Oh well.
NorthwindFull MemberPosted 10 years agoHave you got a good marzocchi service place nearby? After that much time it might be worth getting a pro in.
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agoCould be wrong but it certainly doesn’t sound like he’d have the tools or knowledge to replace busings on his own.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoDon’t fancy cold calling any more shops than I already have. I can wait.
Could be wrong but it certainly doesn’t sound like he’d have the tools or knowledge to replace busings on his own.
I’ve never experienced bushings becoming sticky with age, on my forks they’ve only ever developed play. However my mechanical skills are fine, thanks for your concern 🙂
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoWhenever I try to find stuff by phoning shops, so I have to spend forever finding numbers, phoning, being on hold, and being told no. It pisses me off, so I’ll wait til CRC get them in.
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agoand yet, you’ll happily waste hours on here talking to folk who don’t even know what they’re talking about? 😉
do you have a marzocchi bushing puller and bushing press?
oh.. and bushings don’t really go sticky with age, they bind when wear.
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agohttp://www.windwave.co.uk/FindADealer.aspx
give me your postcode and card details and I’ll call all the dealers in your area for you if you want? 😉
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoand yet, you’ll happily waste hours on here talking to folk who don’t even know what they’re talking about?
I do that when I’m supposed to be working. I find it easier than phoning people up.
Back to bushings then – would I not notice play in the fork if the bearings are worn?
personaFree MemberPosted 10 years agoI have no idea what YOU would or would not notice. But if your mechanical skills are indeed fine please stop using completely the wrong words for each part when trying to describe what you’re on about?
I have to assume (from your sidestep of the question) that you don’t actually have the correct tools to replace your bushings at all rendering this conversation rather pointless.
I can see now why you might get pissed off using the telephone.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoI have no idea what YOU would or would not notice.
You don’t know me very well, believe me I would notice it 🙂
But if your mechanical skills are indeed fine please stop using completely the wrong words for each part when trying to describe what you’re on about?
It’s called a typo.
And I don’t have the tools, no, but I think I can probably improvise. But if all you’re going to do is insult me, I think this conversation should be over.
martinxyzFree MemberPosted 10 years agoI wouldn’t bother checking seals if they are feeling very sticky with a juddering through the travel (with no front brake applied). I would drop the lowers and check the uppers to see if they’ve been twisted/bent. You can sight one edge through to the other and check how parallel they are. I’ve seen a few uppers like this that have caused hellish binding.
The lowers could also have taken a bit of a thrash. Check those out by sighting them in different ways to see if anything shows up. Around 98 you would quite often find Marzocchi’s with twisted braces causing a lot of binding. Once the lowers were removed the legs weren’t running parallel at all. I’ve seen this on non bolt-on braced lowers too so it’s worth a look.
Not saying this is the fault by any means but worth looking into. Another thing, do they feel smooth compressing them with the brake off? I’m not saying you must be checking them with the brake on but so many people check fork travel with the brake applied and miss out on so many problems with their forks.
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoThey only feel smooth with the brake on, because I can push down and forward slightly which compresses the fork directly along its length. With the brake off, so the force is not axial, that’s when it feels bad.
Seals are in the post anyway, so I guess I’ll try and see what happens. I’ll check alignment whilst I’m at it. I’ll also be surprised if that’s the problem, they are 35mm stanchions, huge by my standards, and I’ve certainly never done anything to stretch their capabilities 🙂
LoCoFree MemberPosted 10 years agoWe back at the workshop next week, if bushings need replacing/ adjusting or have any queries 😉
molgripsFree MemberPosted 10 years agoLoco since you are local I may drop the lowers round, if I think it needs it. Or I’ll stop over on a ride and you can boing it see what you think 🙂 did you see my bodge job repair on the other thread?
bigyinnFree MemberPosted 10 years agoI’d take the whole fork to Loco if I was you. Seriously, if it is the bushings, I’d rather have a pro fit them properly with the right tools.
A good home mechanic knows when to stopbodgingimprovising and give it to an expert.
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