Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 76 total)
  • 2.0 HDi woes…
  • TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Any gems of wisdom appreciated…

    I have 2005 Berlingo with the 90hp 2.0HDi engine. I am having an ongoing problem with a hesitant engine at 1500-1750 rpm. This only happens at very light throttle – almost a coast, and coincides with 50mph, which is my typical A-road speed. The problem seems to be getting gradually worse.

    I originally thought that it could be the throttle position sensor that was worn at the most used point, although I have been convince that this is not the case.

    I have changed the MAF sensor, dosed it with Redex, given it the “Italian Tune” (mainly to try to flush through the CAT). I have suspected a sticky or clogged EGR, and gone to the extent of disconnecting the EGR solenoid, to no effect. Tonight I fitted a blanking plate, and inspected the EGR pipe as I did it. It was nowhere near clogged, and the EGR blank has made absolutely no difference.

    What next? The car is drivable, as a little extra throttle and it pulls through the hesitant spot no problem, but this isn’t my driving style…

    Could the ECU map be corrupt? Dodgy injector? But the ECU is throwing up no faults…?

    parkesie
    Free Member

    So many thing it could be and as your finding you can end up just changing everyother bit till its fixed. Idealy needs to be driven with live data recorded to see whats going on.

    Offroading
    Free Member

    Assuming you have done the obvious check of the air filter and pipes for a blockage i would head towards the fuel pump.

    Inbred456
    Free Member

    Check all vacuum pipes for splits. Check turbo boost pipe for splits opening up when on boost. Check turbo actuator etc. Presuming the 90 hp has a turbo of course. Chris diesel to the forum!

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    I did find a hole worn through the vaccum pipe to the EGR solenoid where the hose had rubbed on the engine cover. This has been fixed.

    I don’t think it can be turbo related (yes, it does have a turbo), as the turbo isn’t active at these kind of engine speeds.

    P20
    Full Member

    Have you asked/searched on French Car Forum?

    breadcrumb
    Full Member

    The turbo will be spinning at all engine speeds, so I wouldn’t rule it out.

    chrisdiesel
    Free Member

    Hi, try driving the car with the air flow metre disconnected, the idea being if the air flow metre is disconnected the Ecu will revert to internal mapping for air and fueling. Also depending on age there is a vacuum control throttle valve on the rear of the engine that can stick on light throttle or low rpm.
    I’ll have a think or any other issues.
    What’s the last 8 of the vin no?

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Thanks Chris. Vin ends 93263460. I have tried the disconnected MAF sensor, and had no joy. I replaced the MAF as there was a light film of oil inside the old one, and I suspected that that wasn’t a good thing. I have also put jubilee clips around both ends of the crankcase breather pipe as there was oily residue escaping at some point and the pipes were not a tight fit.

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    Slight thread hijack, I replaced the air mass meter on my 2002 2.0 HDI C5. There was a huge improvement in immediate torque and acceleration. Soon after the performance went back to its slow coach mode. It wasn’t that I became accustomed to the improvement. When you fit an air mass meter is there any other reprogramming required? I simply switched the old part for the new one.

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    My mechanic has suggested fitting a tuning box from Ronbox, which I wouldn’t be averse to if it doesn’t bump insurance too high and it has a beneficial effect. I understand it works mainly by boosting fuel rail pressure. Is this a bad thing?

    chrisdiesel
    Free Member

    Morning, not looked at the tuning box web site but my feeling is “cheap” chip boxes that mainly just re route the fuel fail pressure and tell the Ecu it’s lower than it actually is are a very poor way of increasing power, and generally cause smoking/over fuelling and seen one blown engine, proper remapping is different again but expensive and without being rude it’s not a sports car.
    Let me have a look today at the known issues and the type of system on the car.
    E mail me trout wrestler

    chrisdiesel
    Free Member

    Sorry, film of oil inside air mass unit is normal, corrosion around the thing that looks like a Match inside it and on the silver squire plate inside are the things to look for.

    Rockhopper
    Free Member

    Mcmoonter – you have a fault somewhere else on the car. Try getting the fault codes read. Was it a new MAF you fitted?

    Rockhopper
    Free Member

    .

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Tuning box is more for economy than power. With my current issues, economy is definiately down, probably as I have to drive faster to overcome the hesitation.

    Chrisdiesel – I cannot find your email address. Mine is in my profile.

    Cheers,
    Charlie

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    With my current issues, economy is definiately down, probably as I have to drive faster to overcome the hesitation.

    this is doubtful. economy is probably down because there is a fault somewhere.

    Id be checking none of the turbo hoses have delaminated – as your turbo spools up and creates negative pressure these can squash and cut flow.

    Id relook at the vacumn hoses to the EGR – checking carefully the T pieces and round any joins. Id look for perished diaphragms in the EGR but performing a suck/blow test on it and verifying it opens and closes when it should.

    Id look for air leaks in the air intake up stream of the MAF sensor

    all take into account that its been serviced as it should be as ive had similar feelings from bad fuel filters in my DW8 non turbo engine- feels like a dead spot in the engine between 1500-1750 that it could pull through but then when it reached 70 it struggled to go any further – felt like a dying fuel pump. turned out to be a blocked and partially colapsing fuel filter…..

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    Mcmoonter – you have a fault somewhere else on the car. Try getting the fault codes read. Was it a new MAF you fitted?

    Yes it was a new MAF, Ive tried two now. Pricey at about £80 each.

    I’ve not got a fault code reader. Is there anyone in Fife you could recommend?

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    now mcmoonter

    that is something i might be able to help with.

    i dont have an HDI engine but if you can find out what protocol it uses i could post you my code reader – iirc its an OBDII reader i have but ill check tonight.

    works with my peugeot van and 107s

    Sui
    Free Member

    OBDII readers are £7 on ebay, they work just fine, software for them is also easily picked up off the net. Then get a list of fault codes and go through them..

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    i went for the all in one unit – just pings up a code and you refer to the handbook.

    how ever – dont follow them blindly as they can point you in all sorts of directions away from the real source

    http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m7TurXkywavO7ltHE8cWO-Q.jpg

    i have that and its paid for its self a few times over.

    chickenman
    Full Member

    I’ve had a boost pressure sensor go on a Passat; there was a hesitation thing going before it became an obvious lack of turbo boost as symptoms got worse.

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    i dont have an HDI engine but if you can find out what protocol it uses i could post you my code reader – iirc its an OBDII reader i have but ill check tonight.

    Where would I find out what engine protocol I have? VIN no?

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Further update:

    The van went into what I assume is “Limp Mode” on the way home tonight. Massive loss of power which nearly was the end of me when I pulled out onto a roundabout…

    I have whipped the blanking plate back out, and although the EML is not on, the van seems to still be in Limp Mode. Is there a simple way to re set this?

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    Disconnect battery for a bit – 20mins / half an hour should see it bugger off unless it was actually nothing to do with the egr plate.

    parkesie
    Free Member

    Maybe an o2 sensor, now that its in limp mode get the codes read.

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    McMoonter – I’m in Milnathort, and the fella at French Vehicle Services (maybe worth a shot?) in Kinglassie recommended Daryls Auto Electrics for ECU reprogramming (I want my Cruise Control activated).

    I use Stewart and Smart in Milnathort, but this problem with the hesitation has them stumped. EGR was their idea.

    Parksie – I don’t think there is an Oxygen/lambda sensor on the diesel?

    parkesie
    Free Member

    It should have one maybe two.

    mcmoonter
    Free Member

    Cheers Troutwrestler. I will give them a shout.

    tumnurkoz
    Free Member

    I had a 2.0 HDi picasso (probably the same engine) and the throttle cable was slack. there is a clip you can take the tension up with. Worth a shot.

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Yep, tried the throttle cable tension too.

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Just reconnected the battery after half hour disconnection. Still in Limp Mode 🙁

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    Time to get your codes read. Sounds like it wasnt egr after all

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Here’s an update: The codes were read on Thursday – the only one being “EGR Fault”. The car was then out of Limp Mode, but still had the same issue on light throttle. Suddenly yesterday and today the problem has vanished. It has been much colder. I wonder if it is temp related, or just voodoo?

    coffeeking
    Free Member

    On that car where is the throttle position sensor? On my 306 with the same engine the electronic throttle position sensor sits right behind the rad/bonnet latch and gathers rain in the back of the connector every time you open the bonnet or go through a puddle.

    I had the exact same symptoms with no fault codes (I have all the readers, scopes, you name it, tried different MAFs, removing the MAF entirely, cleaningit, blocking the EGR) and it turned out to be corrosion on the throttle position sensor connector. Removed it, cleaned up the contacts with light emery paper (they didn’t look too corroded), lubed up with petroleum jelly and re-connected and it was fine ever after.

    sobriety
    Free Member

    On that car where is the throttle position sensor?

    I get the low rev stutter on my 407, same 2.0HDi engine. As it’s only used for long runs/occasionally I’ll live with it until whatever is causing it properly dies, especially as the throttle position sensor (generally acknowledged as the most likely cause) is hidden in the pedal box and a nightmare to get to on mine…

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    The TPS is mounted on the engine mount stiffener adjacent to the offside wheelarch. I am just going to leave it at the moment while the going is good, but have suspicions about the TPS. Those in the know tell me that the TPS is very reliable, with the ability to self test, but it would explain the symptoms. I have seen a TPS strip’n’rebuild how-to on a 306 forum, so may give that a go.

    nosedive
    Free Member

    sounds like a bit like a problem with my audi which turned out to be an intercooler leak

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    No intercooler on the 2.0Hdi 90ps, only on the 110ps.

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    A further update…

    I have replaced the TPS – no difference. I have been for a diagnostics session with a local diesel injection specialist, but they could find nothing significant wrong (Previously a fault with the clutch switch had shown up, but I don’t think the clutch switch does anything as I don’t have Cruise Control installed. Also a fault with the cooling fan, but I don’t see how this could be relevant). They’re opinion is that given that no faults are showing, it is likely to be something mechanical, or maybe an earth fault – I have disconnected and cleaned what I think are the main earth points on the nearside wall of the engine compartment, and I have performed a BSI reset – no effect!

    I feel that the surging is getting more frequent, more severe, and occurring across a wider range of RPM – generally under light throttle (right on the cusp of throttle vs overrun) between 1500-2000 RPM.

    Am I mad to consider that the timing belt tensioner could be loosening, allowing the belt to flap in these circumstances?

    Confused! (and squeaky bummed if it is the timing belt tensioner…)

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