Drop them an email (despite my username, I don’t work there any more. Didn’t know this login still worked either.). There’s no actual repository of files as such, but I had a fair few on my work computer and could usually help people out with the odd route. If they’re not stacked with work/still have the files that were on my computer they might be able to send you something.
Alternatively, get the book, go on bikehike and plot them yourself. Really easy to use.
Hope that helps.

It takes a while!

That book’s now embarrassingly out of date as there are a load more trail centres and half the ones in the book have new trails…

It probably took closer to two months to tick them all off for the Vertebrate book. That was a month of riding every day to get the bulk of them done and then the odd trip here and there to check out the others. (Pretty good fun for ‘work’!) I think I rode pretty much every trail.(I might have skipped a couple of the green fire road ones, don’t really remember.)

I think I was doubling up on centres on a few days and rode all the trails at a couple on other days. Not trying to boast – I had deadlines to hit and was pretty fit back then. Just trying to give an indication of effort it took to do it quickly. I reckon that if you were visiting centres fairly regularly on weekends it would take a couple of years to ride them all.

That said, I’m not convinced all the centres are worth bothering with, or that it’s worth skipping some of the other riding you’d pass on the way – I’m not TC bashing, it’s just that there’s some even greater natural stuff.

A very unimaginative list based on research we’ve done for guidebooks:

Dartmoor – Nutcrackers
Quantocks – any of it!
South Wales – Doethie Valley
Mid Wales – Pont Scethin
North Wales – Snowdon
Long Mynd – Minton Batch
Peak – Cut Gate
Lakes – Helvellyn via Dollywagon, Nan Bield
Howgills – Borrowdale
North Pennines – High Cup Nick loop
Dales – Fremington Edge area
North York Moors – from Fryup to Danby
Northumberland – the flagstone trail along the border in the Cheviots
Torridon – Annat loop
Applecross Peninsular.
Glencoe – Ciaran Path
Cairngorms – Glen Tilt (all the way up it though)
Skye – Sligachan

We reprint a lot of old books, although most often into ebook format. (And I don’t deal with the actual printing, so can’t really help there.)

If you’re using OCR software you may well have to go back and edit the book, as it tend to introduce a few errors – I becoming 1, ‘rn’ becoming ‘m’, stuff like that. Plenty of stuff around to run your scan through.

If you can get the text out of a PDF without running through any other software you’ll probably end up with fewer errors, but a fair bit of formatting to sort out. This is probably the easiest and quickest way to get a new typset and so forth.

Then, depending on how professional you want to be, you might need someone to lay the book out again, if you can’t do it yourself. Or just do a quick bodge job.

I’d have thought a straight scan onto a PDF would be quickest and easiest but, as you say, it’s just a glorified photocopy.

Print on demand might be a good bet for getting the thing produced, or find a friendly printer. As I said, I don’t deal with printing though, sorry.

???? And listen to Chris. He’s not slow.

1) I always make it my aim to have fun, rather than do well.
2) And keep eating. You can keep riding forever if you keep eating.
3) If you want to do well, don’t stop. I mean, do stop, but if you’re not fixing yourself or your bike, get going again. All you’re doing by sitting around is making it hard to get going again.
4) Expect a few rubbish patches. Don’t worry about them, it gets better.
5) Don’t race the team riders too often (can help 1) though).
6) Everyone will tell you something along the lines of ‘start slow and get slower’. In my experience, this just means that you’ll spent the first lap queuing in singletrack and then struggle to get going.

Mainly, just focus on having fun. I’ve been well down the field, having a great time and ended up on the podium when people ahead of me have dropped out. On the other hand, I’ve dropped out from decent placings when my head’s not been in it.

Looks pretty good fun to me, that’s the sort of thing I quite often do when I want fun descents rather than a big loop.

You’ve got a lot of road in there, which isn’t usually necessary in the Dark Peak. I’d also definitely echo the comments about Stanage – you’ll be carrying up a cracking (albeit possibly busy) technical descent and rattling down a cleanable climb. Of course, if you’re after a big tour of different areas and don’t want anything too tech, then go for it – but you’re inclusion of the Beast suggests not.

Do you need to start from Hathersage? You could start nearer to the Beast and loop over to Winstoneleetor after Ladybower. And then head over to Shatton Moor and Castleton on the way back, thus keeping the length similar.

The Linacre Classic went anti-clockwise in the first White Peak book. We had a word with the author and it went clockwise in the second book. Much better.

Bikebouy’s link is to the route in our old book – the full ‘new’ Linacre Classic goes further south, adding a bugger of a climb and a nice bit of moorland singletrack. Email in profile if you want a GPX.

Otherwise, what everyone else said is true. There’s some awesome woodsy singletrack in the White Peak, but it’s a right pig in the mud and currently, it’s WET. Wait until it dries a bit.

Edit: If you wanted to add to the loop, you could link the top half to Blacka or Froggatt, which wouldn’t be bad. It’s trickier to extend it south if you don’t know the area, but there’s some really good stuff around Ashover that’s not far.

Six foot on an 18″ Slackline. Feels pretty good to me. Lots of fun.

I’ve got a barely used 2.25 double defence Racing Ralph in 26″ that you can have for £20 posted if you want to try a tougher version. Bought it for 24/12 last year and did about 6 laps on it. It’s full of dried tubeless gunk, mind. Email in profile if you’re interested.

Oi! What’s wrong with my bar tape?!

It was the cable on the wrong side of the bolt. Schoolboy error.

Cheers for the help.

I don’t work fitting boots any more, but Scarpa and Zamberlan are (or used to be) narrow but relatively high volume top to bottom. Asolo are a lower volume fit all round. Mammut boots are also worth a look, and some Salomons might also fit. This is all from a 3 years ago though.

It’s not a component or compatibility issue.

The mech hanger is made of cheese and definitely affects it, but in this case it’s new and straight. I suspect I’ve had the cable on the wrong side of the clamp at some point though. Every day’s a school day.

Limit screws, b-tension, hub etc etc all fine.

The only things left that I can see are a bent frame (which I doubt) or a cable problem. I hope it’s not a friction issue as the cable, even if not perfect, is not awfully routed and that wouldn’t bode well for when it gets into the mud.

Fingers crossed full-length outers and new ferrules solve it.

Thanks again.

I’ll check the bolt, but I think that’s fine.

It was indexed a couple of sprockets up from the bottom. The outer isn’t loose, it can just flex a little more than I’d like aroudn the ferrule that TiRed was looking at.

Cheers all, I’ve at least got some things to play with now.

It’s not the B-tension screw. Why would the clamp affect it?

Can you still buy rollermajigs?

It’s deceptive on the picture. It’s not bent, but it is a bit loose. I’ll try a zip tie/tape combo to hold it in place for the ride home. Ta.

EDIT: It’s a cross bike that gets filled with Peak grit on a regular basis, so I’ve been meaning to run full length outers for a while. I’ll give that a whirl.

I’ll look at the cables again. I imagine it’s more likely to be routing than a rogue ferrule/burr somewhere as it’s been a recurring problem over repeated cable changes.

Not sure I know how to post images…

Hang on, I’ll try.

Ferrules are fine. Doesn’t look like there’s too tight a bend anywhere, although I’m more used to setting up mountain bikes than road bikes.

Cables are new. If anything, the cables are too long, but I’ll double check and have a look at the ferrules. Ta.

The drivetrain needed replacing anyway. I wasn’t overly happy to discover I’d dropped £100 on it and still couldn’t sort the problem…

Cut out all these exclamation points. An exclamation point is like laughing at your own joke.

F. Scott Fitzgerald

Keep your exclamation points ­under control. You are allowed no more than two or three per 100,000 words of prose.

Elmore Leonard

All those exclamation marks, you notice? Five? A sure sign of someone who wears his underpants on his head.

Terry Pratchett

Assuming this isn’t a troll, about 20k, 2-3 hours?, lots of fun and a pretty bad idea at the northern end because a) at this time of year, unless you wait until it’s frozen, it’ll be ridiculously soft, easily damaged and hard going and b) the top of Stanage is sensitive access-wise.

A better idea at this time of year might be to cut out Burbage and Stanage by going over Houndkirk and round to the back of Stanage Pole, although that would kind of spoil the ‘edges’ nature of the route.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/slackline-or-soul

I’ve got both and they’re both great. The Soul is definitely the more ‘XC’ of the two.

That Shan one above, and this Ultramontane vid, which makes me want to go night riding inthe snow.

I’ve got a Soul and a Slackline. They’re both awesome in different ways.

The Soul has a more XC feel to it. It’s lighter, feels more nimble and more comfortable on normal rides. I’d say it’s also slightly better finished and just feels ‘nice’. It’s great.

The Slackline is heavier and a lot stiffer. It holds lines better on fast corners, jumps better and feels better downhill. It’s also great.

I prefer the Soul for XC rides, but the Slackline for downhilly stuff. That said, I’ve ridden DH, raced enduro and done 24-solos on both and it’s been fine. You’ll not go wrong with either.

Get in there now before the Autumn/Winter rains arrives and turns the trails to mud-fests.

Ah, the White Peak sweet spot – in between the mud and the man-eating brambles and nettles.

The Great Longstone route used to be one of my favourites near Buxton but there’s been a lot of trail maintenance over that way that has arguably spoilt the route.

Jon nearly dropped that from the book as it’s been ruined. Good work Derbyshire CC… We tweaked it slightly and left it as it’s still ok for an easier ride and might one day get good again.

AlexSimon – That’s because most of them aren’t…

It’s a pretty easy route, heads north out of Buxton on the Midshires Way and then wiggles round to come back down the west side of the reservoirs. It’s not one of my favourites, if I’m honest, but not bad if you’re just starting out.

Cheers for buying the book!

It’s a bit of a schlep up the hill to the Cat & Fiddle, but the Macc Forest route over that way is one of my favourites.

You can get to the Gradbach route that way too, which has some nice little descents on it.

Pretty much anything around the Hope Valley is good.

If you can get down to the Bakewell/Matlock area then something like the 5-Dales loop would be a good day out. Even further over, towards Chesterfield, (probably not doable without a car) it gets a lot less rocky and more singletracky.

A bit of road tends to be unavoidable when you’re writing guidebooks – once you’ve done a few of the routes and had a map out you’ll probably start to work out what’s what and spot things

Hope that helps.

Cheers Chris. I basically could’t cope with the heat at the start and felt like I was at half power until the sun dropped. Once it cooled off I started to have a lot more fun. No chance of catching you or Matt though!

The beers have been great so far!

Hi Chris, great effort!

I’m with you there on the not feeling right. I still feel really weird. I think the heat took quite a lot out of me. I felt properly spaced when we went up on the podium, like I was about to faint. I drank one of the beers they gave us last night and that had a pretty big effect!

You did seem pretty vacant when you passed me on the first climb near the end. I think I said hello and asked how it was going. There was silence for about 10 seconds as you stared straight ahead in a glassy eyed way and then grunted something. I think you must have been pushing pretty hard at that point!

Ta. Nice and cheap too…

Tewinbury Farm … I used to work there when I was at school.

The Wellington … used to drink there when I was at school.

Premier Inn … wasn’t there when I was at school.

Otherwise, what DrSwanky said. Welwyn or Welywn Garden?

I used to wander around until I found a For Sale sign that had been (ahem) ‘thrown away’. Chop a piece to A5 size, punch a couple of holes for bit of elastic and some zip ties and you’re good to go.

Obviously it won’t rotate or anything, but it’s cheap, light and isn’t massive so you can still see your front wheel.

Sounds fine to me. I’ve done similar things before.

I guess the only slight downside is that – if you’re not sure about how long you want to be out – you’ve not got many bail-out options.

Good route.

I can confirm that the lollipop route everyone’s talking about is excellent. So good that I did it twice on our week-long trip three weeks ago.

The Beinn Dampf is also brilliant. Both are easily doable from the campsite.

Driving to Applecross, doing a there-and-back to Kenmore and finishing in the pub is also superb. Less technical, but superb.

I can attempt to send you GPX tracks (although they didn’t work on my friend’s Garmin) if you want. Email in profile.

Sometimes it’s nice just pootling around on a bike. Not really trying, just twiddling the pedals and looking at the view. Round here, that’s a lot easier to do on a road bike.

Obviously mountain biking’s better though.

I guess it depends what you’ll use the bike for. I don’t mind the chain dropping off occasionally when I’m riding for fun, but I really don’t want it happening if I’m racing.

I’ve always wondered why more people don’t run a bash of some sort on single ring set ups. I tried it briefly without but, after a couple of bent chainrings and a few snapped chains from damage, stuck on an MRP AMG.

I tried a Blackspire something or other first, but the top guide was absolutely awful (flexing all over the place and didn’t really fit a 32-tooth shimano ring) and refused to keep the chain on.

The other option I considered was a bashring and one of the little Hope top guides. This works out at about the same weight and would have been cheaper, given that I already had a bash, but as I was by that point paranoid about losing chains, I wanted a ‘proper’ guide. (I still feel the need for one.) The MRP has been fine so far.

Ah, that’s different to the one I had. Will it unscrew with a pin spanner/needle nose pliers or something?