I came from a running background and switched over to racing XC/CX a few years ago. I used Joe Friel’s book/ideas a lot to help build a schedule and a power meter to help understand what intensity I should be training at, (this was the greater unknown to me).

I also read http://www.training4cyclists.com/ for ideas

Excellent, like it.

I’ve been following that Furman plan since new year.
– 1 interval session
– 1 tempo run
– 1 longer run

Plus one tempo session on the rollers, (2 * 20 mins @ 4W/kg)

I’ve thrown in another run session most weekends of around 80 minutes.

My aim is to run 2:50 at the Stockholm marathon this June then switch over and finish the national XC and marathon MTB series before moving to CX for the winter.

They’re hard sessions, but given enough rest very doable.

Yesterday I went 34:52 for a local 10km, which was way faster than I had expected so its working.

As others have said the longer run is key as it builds confidence and pacing.

Best of luck, a pint, hmm serious betting.

I’d go for a Canyon, but I’ve no idea on what the UK delivery times are like.

KCNC ones are nice

Get a PowerTap, I love mine for training. The Power2Max ones are very sensitive to temperature changes and give odd out numbers, there’s been a fair bit of internet chatter moaning about them.

I have a recurring meeting every Tuesday that blocks out 90 minutes, which is plenty of time for a session, shower, and lunch.

I run intervals, normally covering 11-12km in total in roughly 50 minutes. Something like 5 * 4 minutes off 2 minutes recovery, up to 3 * 8 minutes.

Híghly recommend Strada Wheels:
http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/shop/velocity-a23-wheelset/

AlleBike carbon frame and forks, (local LBS partnership with an Italian manufacturer)
42*11-25 Dura Ace gearing
Strada wheels with Hope Pro3 hubs shod with Cubus Flexus tubs
Spooky carbon canti’s with BBB three compound cross pads

Isn’t this question normally about is it worth paying a two hundred pound plus premium for that little green sticker and will I notice the difference?

Rather than an A-Level in metallurgy.

There are tubeless systems available, they are a halfway house between tubes and tubs.

I run tubs and love them. I ran the same tyres all season, despite them being a mud specific pattern. Next season I’ll get another set of wheels and run a dry pattern, something like a Dugast Pipistrello.

Well worth it in my opinion. Never had any issues, even glueing wasn’t half as bad as people like to make out.

Ran mine between 22 and 27 psi.

Very interesting link, thanks for posting.

I’d recommended reading the sub 3hour thread on the TriTalk forum:
http://www.tritalk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=48836&sid=133d47ec6b357a2f0b41af1ac55b8bc4

Granted its at 190 odd pages now, but there are a lot of interesting ideas expressed there.

I’ll stick to what I was doing, which is trying to stay in the zone or as close as possible and save the intervals for a seperate session.

Sounds correct

I’ve got a 32, and am waiting for the 34 and 36 tooth so I can select the correct one for each race.

The smart V every second is simply a user setting. Clearly smart is their default choice.

The firmware addressed a few bugs, added normalized power and left and right sided power readings, amongst other things.

See Clee Cycles description, (no connection)
http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P11102/product

honourablegeorge – Member

The Swedish Chef – Member

Just by a 10speed downhill specific chainring and don’t bother with a chain guide

Apart from your chain falling off, that’s perfect

Actually not with a Type2/clutch rear mech and the new XX1 style teeth on the KCNC rings.

Just by a 10speed downhill specific chainring and don’t bother with a chain guide, for the easiest way. Something like the KCNC ones or the Gusetts.

Depends on why you’re training at Z2.

If we assume that Z2 is the “Conversation Zone”, and is being used as a steady session, perhaps the day after a hard interval session, then I see no issue what so ever to ride the hill and enter Z3/4 if you still feel easy doing it.

I wouldn’t use the hills as intervals if you’re following a training plan with specific sessions for this type of intensity.

Digital version of this place, (postage too much to Sweden).

Didn’t know Privateer was available in digitial format, goes off to check.

The forum search search function works a treat.

We have a Jura in our office. It makes excellent coffee and has been very reliable. Highly recommended.

Pity I’m out on client site so much where the coffee is always dire….

Unless you want to place in elite then worrying about wheel size is an utter waste of time.

Get fitter, develop more skills.

Besides, anybody who is anybody is riding 650b this year 😀

Top effort that man. Thanks for posting the write up.

This is a “show us your Chinese carbon framed” bike thread from the Swedish version of this place. It runs to 50 odd pages, but there are loads if pics and links:
http://happymtb.org/forum/read.php/1/1267323

Lovely bike there TheDoctor, very classy wheels!

The sound should be consistent, (whatever the noise level), if it makes a distinct WHUMP WHUMP WHUMP WHUMP WHUMP then I’d suggest you have a pedaling technique problem.

Working now.

Nice job guys, wish I was in the UK to support this.

Under a hundred, erm Shimano and Specialized would be my first choice, as Sidi and Mavic aren’t normally in that price range.

Nice looking frame! Good karma to all involved.

Bunch of German frames if you use Google.de

Ooh nice. Looks quick!

Red seatpost clap to mtach the stem/headset colourway?

And the big deal is?

Personally, nothing, although I foresee some traditionalist kicking up a fuss.

OK after re-booting both the modem and the router I’m getting the same, (poor), numbers from both. At least its consistent now.

Time to ring my ISP again.

Above, OK will try later. Beginning to think it might be a new router job.

Border Terrier – no, no pets
iPad – yes
Audi – no, (although owned two whilst I lived in the UK)
Orange 5 – no
Guardian – yes
Niche Razor – yes
Coffee Machine – yes, (French press and grinder)
Work in IT – yes, (although at the business rather than IT end)
Wood burning stove – yes

Right back home again, thanks for the suggestions.

Tried a different cable between the modem and router, and tried different ports wired from the router. No change.

Connection is ADSL, I’ve spoken to the supplier and re-set the modem and all is OK there.

Four devices on the wireless LAN, each has a unique IP assigned by the router.

Nope, not a channel issue, although not surprised as I’ve only one neighbour

It is actually,

According to various speedtests, then yes, that is what I get. Hence why I know the fall off whilst going through the router.

channel? I’m off to investigate