Yes, that’s exactly what it’s for.

When you apply it make sure it covers the full circumference of the bar where it meets with the stem and faceplate (not just under the faceplate).

I’ve also heard said that the extra mechanical ‘grip’ the paste provides means you can use slightly less torque than the stated max Nm for the carbon bar.

Keep it real with reel to reel.

Exactly as Goldigger says.

A plastic tyre lever will do it without damaging the pistons. I’ve used an old Park one and it seemed to be made for the job.

vincienup – I wasn’t aware of the Joes Eco and Uberbike sealants. I’ve just had a look on their websites to check on performance claims and the Joe’s Eco needs to be replaced every 3-12 months, and the Uberbike stuff promises ‘less frequent’ topping up implying that it does dry out albeit more slowly than conventional formulas.One of the main advantages of the FL sealant that caught my eye is the ‘never’ drying out claim – they say it lasts for the life of the tyre.

The sealing performance, particularly at higher pressures, will of course be key. I’m looking forward to see how it performs in eal wold tests.

Might be worth looking at the the Finish Line’s new sealant which uses a different technology to the latex and ammonia types and promises ‘never’ to dry out.

It’s due to be on sale in March and if the claims hold up, and puncture performance is up to scratch, it could be a game changer.

New Finish Line Tubeless Tire Sealant will never dry out*

Malvern Rider – a piece of MTB inner tube fits nicely over the knurled handle part of a Maglite D and addresses freezing and slipperiness issues in winter.

Re Maglites generally, they are quite well made and if you have an old one they can be brought up to date with a reasonably priced LED kit. May not be up to the mega light output performance of some more modern torches but they are still usefully bright with long battery life. Seems a shame (and wasteful) just to throw them away. If you are buying new and not replacing then there are plenty of other LED torches to consider.

I have old Maglites with retrofit LED kits (6D, 3D, AA) and a couple of LED Lensers (small one and a large one), and they all serve a useful function (car, garage, house, rucksack, etc).

It’s a quality product and secure enough for proper MTBIng. I have the out front mount which puts the phone in a better position. Not sure about 35mm compatibility though.

+1 for the Quadlock with out front mount. Excellent piece of kit.

A few time travellers on the EU Referendum thread. They’re living in the past.

@mahalo

I’m civil and businesslike at parties ;-)

If I did need to use an LBS workshop for anything, e.g. where the tools for the job are uneconomic for me to buy or my skills are’t up to it (e.g frame preparation, wheel repair/build etc), I’d do plenty of research beforehand to try and avoid disappointment. I’d also be prepared to travel a reasonable amount outside my local area. Having more than one bike means nothing is likely to be an emergency.

Been there with the overpromising and bike not being ready when it’s supposed to be…again. I’d initially phone ahead to avoid a wasted trip. If things have gone on beyond what’s reasonable then going in person to try to sort things out is, I find, the best option.

I don’t expect to be entertained by the people who work there. Civil and businesslike is good enough for me.

Some pretty poor experiences with LBS workshops led me to buy the tools and learn how to fettle bikes myself.

As I only had to learn what’s relevant to my bikes I would never say that I have the breadth of skills and expertise as a professional bike mechanic who (in theory) should be able to handle most maintenance/repair jobs for most bikes.

However, I would not want to impugn all bike mechanics working in LBSs as I am sure there are many good ones out there. Perhaps I was choosing the wrong shops.

Re JIS screwdrivers the model I have is the ‘Vessel Megadora 900 Series JIS Cross point No 2 x 100mm’ which fits the JIS screws used on bikes very nicely.

For JIS screws I have a Vessel Megadora screwdriver which is excellent quality. JIS screwdrivers made by Hozan are also supposed to be good (I haven’t tried them).

Last year Park Tool released their own JIS compatible screwdrivers: https://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-screwdriver-dsd-2. A bit late to the party. I hope they’re better quality than Park’s standard screwdrivers, which are quite poor.

I agree that inattentive drivers are a huge issue when it comes to cyclists safety on the road. I’m also of the view that you should do as much as you can to make yourself visible – it’s one of the key parts of the cyclist safety equation that is in your control, such as road positioning etc.

I’m a big fan of additional rear lights above the usual seatpost location such as on a backpack (if you ride with one) and on the rear of the helmet. I find these higher level rear lights in particular grab my attention when I’m driving (mainly in an urban setting with lots of lightis competing for attention). Decent pulse patterns can also be quite attention grabbing.

Edit – Good to hear the OP’s other half is okay

The standard Proviz reflective jacket, while being excellent at night in terms of being seen, is a dull grey colour during the day, which is not ideal. They do however now sell a version which is flouro so good during they day, and has the same reflective properties for when it’s dark. Comes in a choice of colours including yellow, orange and green:

Women’s version: https://www.provizsports.com/en-gb/reflect360-crs-womens-cycling-jacket.html

I have one of the green ones and I like they way it performs in terms of visibility.
Pros – good day and night visibility, waterproof
Cons – breathability not great, cut may not suit everyone, price.

+1 FunkyDunc

It’s advised that you don’t handle the glass area of the bulbs with bare fingers. If you do, oil from your fingers transfers onto the glass hich leads to hotspots and premature failure.

This article explains how: https://itstillruns.com/do-go-bad-touch-them-7371358.html

Also….review the garage door locks to make sure they’re up to the job and get a garage alarm. Think in terms of layers of security.

I already had a cover for the rear half of the bike (by SciCon: https://uk.sciconbags.com/products/protection/wheels/rear-bike-cover ) but needed something for the front half which would fit on the bike with the front wheel off and the handlebars flat with the frame – for sliding in and out of the car boot. This was not available ‘off the shelf’.

So I had a ‘front half’ cover made up by a seamstress (my aunt). I bought a full size black nylon ripstop bike cover from Amazon which she then cut up according to a pattern I’d cobbled together and sewed it.

This was quite cheap way to buy the fabric part of the cover. I did however splash out on chunky oversize YKK zips – so no chance of sticking or splitting. I also reinforced the cover at the contact/wear points by applying Gorilla tape on the inside with a few strategicaly placed bits of foam padding.

I’ve been using it for a couple of years now and it’s performed well – protecting the car and the bike.

I really like the interface and fundctionality of the TomTom units. I think the’ve got it nailed. I understand that many folks like to use a phone as do it all device but I tried Waze and Google maps on the iphone before buying a replacement TomTom (outgoing one predated satnav apps on phones) and didn’t really get on with them.

I’ve now got a TomTom Go 520 unit: lifetime maps and instead of containing a sim to access trafic data like the TT Go 5200 mentioned above, it connects to the iphone via bluetooth to access live traffic data. Works seamlessly.

I’ve checked the data consumption when using the TT live traffic service and it’s miniscule compared to Google maps uploading map segments (I have an el cheapo tarrif with limited data, which I’m very happy with).

Re pictonroad – ‘Are they suitable as general ‘shoes’ as opposed to dedicated bike shoes or are they a bit stiff for wearing to Wetherspoons? ‘

They are marketed as a ‘bike and hike’ shoe so in theory should be suitable for more than just the bike.

I’ll get mine on Wednesday and will be able to update then on their general purposeness.

Thanks – ordered. Been waiting for these to come down in price.

Much better looking that the 5.10s which look a bit bulbous, but with the same stealth sole.

(NB there is +£4.99 p&p from sportshoes.com, but still cheaper that the Adidas site.)

I’ve had one of those Phaze ones from Halfords for a couple of years now (see pic in Kayak’s post above). It’s been used a few times and has performed well. Says it’s okay for engines under 2,000cc, and seems to hold charge for a good while before it needs topping up.

Old school technology containing lead acid batteries, but relatively cheap compared to the newer smaller lithium versions, robust and will do the job. Size and weight count against it. I keep it in the garage or put it in the boot of the car.

Would probably go for something more portable for a bike unless it’s to be kept in a garage/house.

I’ve been using one in the car for a while with an Iphone 6. The magnetic base is a Maplin one with a rubber surface:
https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/magnetic-dash-mount-n53eh ,
and the phone wears a grippy finish black case with a metal plate inside (Spigen Thin Fit case).

They work surprisingly well together as, in addition to the magnetic adhesion, the grippiness of both surfaces means the phone doesn’t slip at all. Also I’ve have had no problems re magnetism affecting the electronics.

Given that you have a suitable location for the dish and the holes drilled through the wall in all the right places from a previous Sky installation, if you’re comfortable with a bit of DIY and have some time, you might consider doing it yourself.

I installed my Freesat dish using a cheap meter and a compass. I bought a dish, LNB and cable kit from Maplin together with all the necessary accessories and meter. A standard Sky type dish is all that’s needed so you can shop around. Took me a couple of hours, including drilling through the walls. Cost me well under £50 all in a few years ago.

Here is a ‘how to’ guide: http://gonedigital.net/2010/09/10/how-to-set-up-a-satellite-dish/

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/65466/best-dab-radio-head-units-2017

I bought a Pioneer MVHX580DAB based on the review above. Comes with a small microphone for telephone calls and Siri etc and requires addition of a DAB aerial. I went for the Autoleads windscreen stick on one next to the A pillar and reception has been great. Very well specced in terms of functions and Bluetooth connectivity and decent sounding internal amp.

Pro Gold Pro link Extreme is excellent I find

Sounds like it’s a bit of a lottery. My experience was that I ordered a Seiko watch and I WAS asked to pay an additional charge online to clear customs. The watch took a few days to be delivered and was a legit Seiko, but it stopped working after 10 months. When I contacted Seiko UK to ask about getting the watch repaired under their international warranty (as advised by Creation) they told me on the phone that the watch was not covered as I’d bought it from Creation Watches. I decided to take the watch to Seiko HQ in Maidenhead in person as they have a walk in repair service and it’s not far from me. I showed them proof of purchase from Creation as requested for the warranty process, and without any further questions they repaired the watch under warranty and sent it back to me by post.

With Creation you pays your money and you take a chance.

52″ wheels, one gear, ultra short stem.

Industry roadmap is taking us to the Penny Farthing.

Hope Universal Bar Mount £7.99 from CRC:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-universal-handlebar-mount/rp-prod23533

Should screw into any light with a single screw hole in the base. Fully adjustable clamp action.
The only thing you might need to change is the screw if it’s the wrong diameter for your light.

A number of poor bike shop experiences led me to learning to do most bike repair and maintenance jobs myself and acquiring the tools. Only really specialist jobs requiring expensive tools would mean me using a bike shop. In that case I’d do plenty of research before choosing the shop.

Accepted that you do need the inclination to learn and have a go, and enough spare time to do the jobs yourself. The cost of the tools can work out well in comparison to the workshop charges, and you have the added bonus of cheap repairs and maintenance in the long term. Quite satisfying too.

BBB sidecage for compact spaces in rear suspension frames:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BBB-BBC-35-Water-Bottle-Holder/dp/B00BXIZ6LG
I use one with a Camelbak podium and you can easily adjust the tightness by bending the cage. Very grippy for rough terrain.

At this time of year steer clear of the deer.

I was in Bushy Park on Thursday and the stags were bellowing away with plenty of aggression on display. I was surprised by the number of people getting way too close to them to try take photos with their mobiles. As that news report above with the punctured ‘celebrity milliner shows, things can get rather serious rather quickly.

The Aldi Moon copy for £12.99 is good. In store only, if they have any left.

Thanks for the extra info. The ‘Lumenator 17’ is a good one from MTB Batteries and kicks out well over the 1000 lumens. Bar mounted and has a separate battery pack. Experience of many forumites (including myself) is that the light performs well and the aftersales service from Mark who runs the show is exemplary. Price is £115.

Many on here vouch for lights supplied by Torchy who has an Ebay shop and has a similar reputation on here. He provides a range of lights at different prices and power outputs. Might be worth having a look at this recent link for the latest Torchy (and other) recommendations: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/lights-for-on-and-off-road. HTH

– Are you okay with a bar mounted light, a helmet mounted light?
– Does it have to be an all in one light or are you okay with a separate battery pack?
– What’s your budget?

Roadman Shaq – Man’s Not Not (R1Extra Fire in the Booth session)

^^^^
– roadman
?r??dm?n/
noun archaic
noun: roadman; plural noun: roadmen
– a man employed to repair or maintain roads.

@Yak – Nice looking design. Which Knog model is that?

If you have a rear light with a rubber cover over the charging port you can greatly increase the water resistance by adding a light smear of thick silicone grease to the inside of the rubber cover. It will seal against the elements and help keep it closed.

The best I’ve found for this is silicone grease from Maplin which comes in toothpaste tube type packaging. It has the consistency of honey or treacle, so is much thicker and more importantly stickier, than standard bike grease.

I’ve always found those rubber covers to be a bit of a flaky design which can spoil an otherwise decent light, across many brands. They should really come up with something better.