Specialised Fuse has modern geo and sliding dropouts.
(I’m assuming it’s available in the UK?)

I have a 26″ inbred setup as a SS, which i still really enjoy. I’d like a new suspension fork for it (so i can use its current fork on another project) – is there anything ‘good’ available in 26″ straight steerer 120mm? I’m now in Sydney, and the second hand market just isn’t what it is in the UK.

Not boost!

If you would need a new free hub to use a SRAM 10-42 anyway, then another option would be Shimano 11sp with expander (11-45) on your existing free hub.

Cheers all.

Some useful weight comparisons here:
Link

Sorry that’s an old webpage. No idea what’s happening for 2016 models.

What do you know about 2016MY?

I am just going by their website: 650b versions have 34’s. Assumed these were the coming model, as different from this year’s (which they were discounting)? Forgot to mention 650b, not 29er. (I’m in Aus, if that makes a difference).

Linky

I just used the ODI ones I already had: I removed the lugs from one end of the grip with a hacksaw and fitted a suitable (flexible) bung in the end of the bar instead of the solid aluminium collar.

This is what you need:
On One slackset by Works Components

It even tells you which one will suit your Inbred.

Great thanks. I’ll jump on your site in the morning and get ordering.

Found an image of one that looks the same

No extra sleeve, so guess not XV1
Have to sort a pic in the morning.

No idea; how to I tell / find out? I bought the shock as ex-demo from local Orange agent (Australia) to replace the Manitou (2005 frame).

Stickers say:
ID CC7L
Compression tune M
Climb tune M

Which row applies? For a poverty CTD (without Kashima).

[Review of other options here[/url]

Also consider Specialized tyres. Purgatory?

Fluxient lights from amazon.co.uk is my recommendation. Reviews on TorchyTheBatteryBoy.com. The cheap DX lights / torches are good, but the batteries let them down massively. By the time you start replacing them with decent batteries, you may as we’ll have gone with something decent from the start. And that’s before we even start worrying about chargers that catch fire etc. And the fettling to get a reliable set up, that doesn’t leave you in the dark at the worst possible moment. Save yourself the hassle and get out in the bike instead.

Torch on your helmet, no cables – Fluxient U2 mini, £40
(with an Exposure Joystick mount, available separately from CRC)
Bar mount light on you bars – Fluxient XM-L2, £70

That’s all you need. More light would only be required for an arms race.

Also have a look at Superstar Components: wider than On-One’s and £7.99.

Bonty XR2 Team Issue

Dual position Revs on my ’05 (with an On-one slack set) 120mm for the climbs and 150mm the rest of the time 😀 67 degree static head angle (at 150mm). The bar height is a bit of an issue though: no spacers, zero rise stem and 7mm rise bars, to keep it low. 36’s are 16mm longer again, but at least you will have the integrated headset on a new frame.

I prefer an Ikon on the rear: the 2.2 is lighter and wider than a Crossmark 2.1 or 2.25. Lots of low knobs that clear well and protect the carcass, plus they are fast rolling with a rounded profile (if that’s what you like).

OP: check the ‘reach’ measurements (top tube length is a red herring). There is only 7mm IIRC between 16″ and 18″ Inbred, so I went for the extra stand over, no regrets. There may be a similarly small diff between the sizes you are debating. The 16″ puts the TT down by my knees which I love for having fun, pretending I’m a riding god. Even if it’s all in my head, that can be enough to make the difference. Also, more seatpost helps take the sting out, I can look down and see my SDG ibeam flex but no problems in three years.

Single speed is great round Broxbourne. Had an amazing ride following another single speeder who knew the trails, hardtail makes it more fun too.

Interesting. 24/36 works fine on mine.

Any ‘danger’ aside, what do you do with the dirty petrol? Down the drain is not very responsible. Never had a problem with the natural solvents that bio-degrade TBH.

Thanks.
I would have thought the narrower pawls would lead to uneven wear across the teeth. Oh well, if that’s all that’s available, guess I have no choice!

That’s great, thanks everyone.

think if I’d seen less Mavics cracked around the eyelets I might be more convinced as to the awesomeness of it all tbh.

Exactly. I’ve had both 717s crack (at every eyelet) and an Arch with one spoke pulling through (hand built by reputable co.).

CRC had an SDG I-beam Flex with ‘free’ seat post listed recently…

Hi mate i have a 3 ride old carbon Kore t-rail one (same as sdg i-beam) but a bit lighter, that i no longer need now due to changing frame, mint condition with box, also could sell it with the sdg i beam bel air saddle if any good.
If your interested drop me an email at jonathantraverse@hotmail.co.uk

I might be interested, email sent, thanks.

Dido

26er may be vertical dropouts only, but that doesn’t necessarily mean geared only. I chose the vertical dropout Inbred for my SS, as I prefer a tensioner (instead of tugs): fixed position brake calliper, adjusts for chain wear automatically, easy to get the wheel in/out for transporting in the boot.

A Surly Singulator and a half link worked well for me.

I staggers me the irony of some of these posts in here.

They suggest (in)action, based on a couple of lines of text from a stranger and the justification….the OP doesn’t have the full facts!

And anyway, how do we know leaving them alone for an hour isn’t the tip of the iceberg? To have mentioned it in public the mother must feel it’s OK, is that because there’s far worse going on, so this seems relatively insignificant?

Even if there is nothing worse going on now, what other risks will seem like the next OK step?

Agreed on that at least,reporting her to the ss will result in her being on a watch list, and may well cause serious upset amongst family memebrs and if they ever go for another job involving elderley or children eg crb checks.

Becasue if something happened to the kids, that wouldn’t cause “serious upset”?

think of it as refusing to crucify someone without having the full picture and all of the fine details.

I think everyone so far agrees with this, that’s why they are suggesting the OP leave it to the trained professionals to investigate and assess. OP, you must not make the decisions for the professionals, you do not have the skills or the full facts, let them handle it.

Very happy with my Maxxis Ikons: 540g and low profile, fast rolling tread. Can’t comment on their wet / mud abilities though.The fancy EXC casing is weak though, the side walls may be reinforced but the tread isn’t and I ripped across the thread, on an easy trail. Replaced it with the standard compound and it’s been fine, saves some money too. They weigh the same and are the same width, (dispite what the Maxxis site says).

AFAIK the only funny offset is on the granny tabs, so I kept the original ring and flogged the middle and big rings in favour of a 36T XT ring and lightweight bash (BBG?). Tried an old granny ring from the parts bin and it would have needed spacing off (which seemed a faff considering replacement cost of M980 grannies is reasonable).

I’m running double and bash on mine, so yes it is possible. I went with the triple so that I could swap the big ring for a bash ring but mostly to keep my options open with the standard BCD. Currently 22/36 with an 11-32 cassette. Kind of prefer the 32 single ring and 11-34 cassette on my hardtail, but not ready to loose the granny on the full sus just yet (I think) handy when you are tired! Full sus is more weekends away, while Hardtail local 1-2 hr rides.

Glad I didn’t read up on the Superstar seat-tube mounted one before I ordered it, or I might have spent a load more. As it is, I fitted it 6 months ago and had forgotten all about it until now, it just works.

Cycle-clothing.co.uk

Storage space for a tow bar rack, when not in use, was a big consideration for me. Plus I know that fitting it and then removing it again and putting it out of the way somewhere, 2-3 times a week, would have started to grate pretty quickly. Especially in the dark, when tired and hungry after a night ride. Leaving it on is not an option for me. I’m usually trying to squeeze in rides at the weekend, around the family, so any time saved faffing makes that more likely to happen. Pretty sure the wife would refuse to tilt and reset a rack for access to the boot, so that would be a pain when we go away too (once a month). Once you have roofbars, they have other uses, roof boxes and other non-bike carriers for example. No noticeable noise from the bars either (Pro Rack Whisper bars). I’ve had cheap racks before, glad I saved for the Thule 591 this time, worth it for regular use.

Cheers